Dumb, I know....now. I was winterizing with the pink stuff - pump was pushing it to faucets one by one. Then I got the "bright" idea to push in the plunger on the city water fill valve so I'd get anitfreeze there too. Not a very smart thing to do when the system is under pressure is it? Well, lets just say there was a spontaneous decompression as a bunch of antifreeze shot out of the city water fill valve.
After my shock, I then discovered that when I turned the pump back on, antifreeze kept running out of the fill valve! It was broken. %$&$! And this was on a new Sightseer.
I found a thread here that gave a clue "an o-ring" would become unset and this caused the leaking. I'd need to replace the entire city water fill valve. That takes time and money to do.
Rather than do that, I fixed it! Here is what I did in case you've done the same thing. These instructions worked on a Winnebago SightSeer with a City Fill valve P/N "G-784 MBC" stamped on the side of the valve. For our Sightseer, I believe the Winnebago P/N and description is 078505-02-CHT Fill-City, 5URF, MPT.
1. Remove the two screws holding the metal flange around the city water fill valve on to the panel about 1/2 way.
2. Reach around and unscrew the plastic adapter screwed into the City water fill valve. Remember you're looking at it backwards - if you had x-ray vision and could see through the panel, rotate the plastic adapter clockwise to unscrew it. I needed a pliers to get it started, then it turned easily by hand.
3. Once the adapter is completely unscrewed, remove the flange screws the rest of the way and the City Water Fill valve comes out easily.
4. Look into the end where you attach your hose. You should see a small white plastic post with circular white plastic rim. The rim has two "ears" that stick out. Underneath the rim you should see a spring.
5. Turn the valve around and look at the other end. You'll see a circular white plastic disk with a small hole in it. If you look carefully, you'll see a black o-ring that is only partially on the plastic disk. That is the problem - when the "blow out" happened, the o-ring came off of this disk.
6. If your valve looks like mine, here is what to do next. With a pair of forceps (or needle-nose pliers), grab the circular white plastic rim (the one with the ears) in the middle. Don't grab the ears themselves, just grab the rim. Then, pull it straight off of the plastic post. It doesn't take much force to pull it off.
7. You'll have a white plastic donut with ears in your pliers. Set that aside. Remove the spring and set aside too.
8. Push the white plug out of the valve by pushing from the end where the hose connects.
9. Now you'll see the white disk with a groove around its circumference. You'll also have the o-ring that is loose. Roll the o-ring back into the groove.
10. Put the white disk back into the valve and hold it with a finger.
11. From the hose-connection side, put the spring over the white post. Then pickup the white plastic donut (with ears) holding it by the side with your pliers. Pliers should not touch the ears. Push it onto the post and it will snap into place. Your valve is now working!
12. To test it, wrap your lips around the end that screws into the RV and blow hard. Nothing, right? Then push the white post in and blow again. Blows right through.
13. Put the valve back into the panel and get the white plastic adapter screw started. Turn it counter-clockwise (looking at it with XRay vision). Make certain not to get it cross-threaded. It should go on smoothly. One it is well started, get the two flange screws started. Then tighten up the adapter by hand, tighten the flange screws, and then give the adapter about 1/4 turn with pliers to snug it up.
14. Turn on your pump and smile as no antifreeze comes out of the city water valve anymore! (At least, this is what happened to me.)
15. Get your label maker (or a magic marker) and add a label reading: "Remove pressure before bleeding valve!" as a reminder.
Well, I hope this email helps someone!
2005 Sightseer with Workhorse, ReadyBrute Elite towing 2003 Honda CRV
Map below shows states where we actually camped.....
Add my name to the growing list. Even though I had the pump off, there was some pressure in the system yet. Fortunately, mine sealed right back up. My city water fixture was replaced three years ago because it did not seal, but I do not remember if I actually spent much time diagnosing the problem. (I usually take everything apart to see why it failed)
Please drive safely..... bob b.
Bob, Marge, Gidgit and Zoee
1999 Itasca Sunrise SE/18,000# Ford chassie
towing a 2000 Tracker/4 door with a Blue Ox Aventa (Alexus) 10,000# Tow Bar (BX7435)/Unified Tow Break in use.
ME DUMB TOO! Did exactly the same thing today! I'm whizzing right through the winterizing process, sitting on my little stool, directly in front of the city fill, last thing to do is relieve the water from the fill valve....let's see.... I guess your suppose to push in this little thingy right there...yep...that be me with water all over my face!
Well heck RV'ers, we tinkers like to tinker and I as one tinkled with the city water valve also. YEP, got water in the face. That is how we tinkers learn. You bet we will never do that again. Luckily, it did not break. That is what makes us the best ticklers.........
"No One Cares What You Know, Until They Know That You Care!"......."God Bless America"
2003 Pace Arrow 34W, F-53 V-10 22,000#, Avg 8.2 MPG
ScanGauge II, Voltage Booster, Progressive Industries EMS
Water Softener, Safe-T-Plus, Rear Trac Bar, 4 Koni FSD's
Re: Fixed City Water Fill Valve Posted by Alfred622 on 10/24/05
I am a forum member and I do not know why I could not locate these great instructions on the forum...so I did a GOOGLE search on "City Water Valve O-ring" and bingo, there they were.
The instructions saved me about $70-plus. Thanks so much. The instructions were like a patient friend helping me along.
My situation was a slight bit different. The way mine is set up, when you unlock the housing door, you will see the City Water Fill Valve, the receptacle for the On-Board water and a small screened hole for venting of the on-board water tank. Unfortunately the C.W.F.V was permanently affixed to the plastic housing. So I had to remove 8 screws and slice through the caulking to remove the entire plastic enclosure/housing from the side of the RV. Once the housing was off the RV, I looked on the back and loosened the clamps and disconnected the 3 hoses and took the entire unit over to my worktable to attack the culprit... the city water fill valve. Other than that I did one thing different in step 6. I had to use a small size screwdriver to carefully but forcefully pry the "disk with the ears" off the post. I found that gripping it with the needle-nosed pliers as suggested in step 6 , squeezed the disk further into the channel on the post. The channel is what keeps the disk in place on the post. This inhibited the "disk with ears" from popping out of the channel and off the post. Although I will caution, when the "disk with the ears" was finally pried off using the screwdriver method, the two plastic pieces be went flying, So have a helper cup their hands above the water valve on the end you're prying. My wife's eagle eyes did eventually find the 2 pieces and were able to carry on and complete the repair.
I did a successful "blow-thru" test on the CWFV (see step 12.) Also, before attaching the housing back onto the RV I made sure I had no leaks from the 3 hoses I originally removed by taking a garden hose and began to fill the on-board water tank via the receptacle. No leaks there. I then tested the hose connected to the back of CWFV by pressurizing the water system using the RV water pump. I eyeballed it. and no leaks either. GREAT !!!
With great satisfaction I screwed the housing back onto the side of the RV and then re-caulked. All done.
The Lesson learned ? When winterizing, before testing to see if the Anti-freeze has made it all the way to the city water fill valve, ALWAYS turn off the RV water pump, open a faucet until the water stops flowing to at least a drip. This lets the pressure off the water system. The pressure is what blows the o-ring off.
Then and only then is it safe to poke the CWFV innards and watch for the pink stuff flow.
OK add me to the list of over achievers... As I too thought what a great idea make sure the city water line has anti-freeze in it as well. The bad part is my wife was standing right beside me saying I don't think you should do that and then it happened... An quick burst of anti-freez right in the face. Needless to say the "I told you so" was the next thing said!
So now it is summer and I was ready to drain the lines and low and behold all of the water shot right out of the City fill area. Well after hearing about how I broke it last winter, I hit the computer looking for an answer. I am so glad I am not the only one that has been faced with this adventure.
Good news, after reading all of the entries about how everyone has fixed this problem and seeing that my bew MH has the 8 screws and the large frame that I would have to remove and then re-caulk, I tried a new technique.
I cut a piece of hanger about 15" long and then bent the end into an L shape about 1/8" long (just a really small "L". Then I stuck the small bent end into the city water fill very easily just behind the spring. I then worked the hanger around in a circle as I held the white tip with a pair of needle nose just enough to give me a little pushing preasure. I did this on the top both sides and then the bottom. My hope was that I could push the "O" ring back into place. Well even to my wife's surprise this worked just like a charm. After several attempts turning the pump on and off and hooking the city water on and off a few times. I have come to the conclusion that I am still the man... Good luck to all!