I am sick. My perfect wood floor is ruined. I left a bag of ice in the freezer when I turned it off. Water dripped onto the wood floor and has lifted one piece of wood right in the middle of the floor. It has curled up into a "W". What the heck am I going to do now? Do I have to rip it all out and redo it? anyone please advise...
Planning on the type. A friend of mine had this happen, we set my power saw to depth and cut it out bad. He got some new tongue and grove flooring. We cut the tongue off the last piece and glued it in place. Looked good.
Good luck.
DeWayne & Judy
04 3810 Dutch Star
ISL 370
Frank's autoformer
01 Sahara Jeep-toad
Blue Ox Aventa II
F 374382
This is not the "GOLDEN-YEARS", it is the "RUSTY-YEARS" !
When we bought our rig there was a small section right by the door that looked like a prospective customer did not close the door after looking at the rig letting the rain in. Dealer fixed it and it looks like nothing had ever happened. If your flooring is like ours, the wood is very thin so I would advise against that power saw.
First I would suggest that you get an estimate from the dealer to replace it. Second, before consider doing the work yourself, ask the manufacturer what brand flooring was used. Is it laminate? Is it veneer or what? Send them an email then email the flooring manufacturer about where a piece can be bought and what they recommend. Third, look at the flooring at Home Depot or Lowe's to see if you can find some that looks like yours. Ask them for recommendations on replacing it. Look at yours very closely to see what size sections it is, is it stapled down, and if you can determine the width and thickness of the section that is damaged. Our is in sections and about 1/4" thick with a varnish finish and has some staples holding it down.
You might find that putting a small area rug over it will be the easiest and simplest solution. I bought some great "persian" looking ones about 2' x 3' or 3' x 4' that I put over my floor - one by the door and one in the kitchen.
I am sure you have learned a valuable lesson regarding the frig but you might want to make it a habit to leave both doors open after turning it off. Mold has a way of making a mess in there. I usually put a hand towel hanging from the freezer so both door can't close.
Then
All answers are given IMHO, don't take the advice of one person. Do your own research. What works for one person might not be best for another.
Darn, so I have to chop out a section then?
I will have to call winnie and ask them what it is. How do you get a new piece to match? does it come pre stained? How is it held down?
What a pain.
So is there NO WAY to glue it back down?
It is a thin board BTW
I have to wait untill its dry tho right? Someone told me that might take two weeks! What do i do with it as its drying? Do I put a bunch of weight on it? I assume it will shrink back so it will fit in the hole it sprung out of ...
You use regular wood glue? Do you tack it down with a nail?
but when we got our coach used, ours had some minor bowing, delamination from the sub-floor, with a little discoloration near the fridge, and the whole floor needed a coat (or five) of protectant to keep it's life.
Anyway, we got only a quart for under $10, a good brush; and then Sofi went at it. She put many coats then sanded over many days and built it up real thick. I now have no fear of it being damaged by liquids or scratching. She stored the brush head in a baggie while in-between coats drying.
There was some bubbling, and some tiny un-even spots; but she did the a real good job, and it came out nice. We got the Glossy finish, and I think it shines a little too much also.
If I were you, I would go to a "flooring only" shop and talk to the folks there. I have no idea why we ended up with some bubbling. When the bubbles popped thay left tiny uneven dimples.
I had modern expensive laminant hardwood in a home once, and the thin finish that the factory puts on it, does not hold up over time.
Sofi used regular wood glue, and yes, it would seem that you need to allow the floor to dry out first; perhaps a fan. It would seem that putting weight on it while drying would be better; and tacking it down would seem to be BAD, as it would have the potential for cracking the wood.
I suggested to her to put many coats on the floor to assist in laminating the wood to the floor, and too each other. I would guess that we will have no problem with the floor, at all. The many coats put a very thick layer on the floor; yet crystal clear.
Ours ended up real thick, and it should wear well for many years.
Worst case; if you don't like it, you could replace the entire floor, at a maximum total retail cost, including labor, of what, a $1,000. Not that big of a deal; and if you did have to replace the whole floor; then you would have a beautiful new floor to admire. That's what I was thinking when we decided to urethane our moho wood flooring area. I was also thinking that, if need be, I would replace it myself at a total materials cost of under $500.
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