I have a 1993 Tioga Montera Class C and I am trying to remove the shower pan for cleaning, wall replacement and resealing. The previous owners used an inappropriate type of caulk and the butyl tape putty behind the caulk is reacting with the caulk. Also, I am replacing the wall boards as there are many holes from various attachments added and removed over the years.
I have removed all of the trim and screws holding the pan in place. The pan is loose and I can lift it about 3”. However, if I pull up in the pan, the drain is still holding it in place. I tried to unscrew the drain, and although it turns, it does not come out or loosen from the drain pipe.
How is the drain connected to the trap below? Is there a retaining collar on the underside of the drain? I can not lift the pan high enough to see or reach under. IF it a slip fitting, it does not want to come off. Any suggestions?
* This post was
edited 08/13/04 06:30am by Scott M *
No access, the shower abuts the kitchen and there is a small opening under the stove. However, accessing through the small hole would entail the removal of the oven, range top and converter. The shower also sits directly above the graywater holding tank. Basically, the shower is stuck in the right rear corner with access from the outside, underneath front or side. It must slide down from above somehow. The removal must somehow involve a slip joint on the shower drain, as do a lot of residential showers. Either age has caused the slip joint to fuse or I am really missing something. I don’t want to break the ABS pipe connecting to the graywater tank, so I am trying to be as careful as possible.
I can't speak about your specific MH, but almost all shower/tubs have a small "U" shaped trap under the drain hole. That trap is attached to the shower/tub drain hole by a screw on collar. Look at the trap under your kitchen or bathroom sink & you will see a good example. You need to loosen that collar before the drain will come loose.
The shower in my old Palomino truck camper used a standard household PVC P-Trap with the drain tailpiece attached to the shower drain with the standard slip fitting nut and tapered washer/seal. Maybe if you keep turning the drain you can work the nut loose and pull the tailpiece out of the trap.
My trap was leaking and access to it was so bad I ended up biting the bullet and cutting an access hole in the outer filon and making an access panel when I put it back together.
Had to put off work for a couple of days to let the weather pass through and clean up everything.
There is nowhere that I can cut and access hole unless I cut through the shower pan itself. I will try and turn the drain several more times. The drain cover will turn and the neck that is connected to the drain also turns. I tried to tap the neck out of the drain, but it appears to be glued to the drain. Since the neck turns, it would appear that there is a compression fitting somewhere below. If I could only turn the drain while I place upward pressure on the pan, I might get somewhere.
The worst case, is I break the P-trap and have to replace it. As long as I don't break the trunk line plumbing fittings in the process. I am wondering if Fleetwood had everything in place and glued the drain to the neck as thay laid the pan in place? So much for the possibility of future maintenance.
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