eyeteeth
SW Michigan
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Joined: 09/26/2006
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While talking roofs... I have a coating (at least one) from the PO of that aluminum paint type goop. Were I to eternabond the seams... I'm assuming I should get that aluminum******off. Somehow... suggestions?
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Leeann
Maryland
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Joined: 08/22/2006
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You assume correctly...scrape the poo off. Use a heavy-duty scraper (not just a paint knife). It worked on ours. We softened ours a little first with Spray Nine.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
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eyeteeth
SW Michigan
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Joined: 09/26/2006
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lol... I just noticed it starred out a word. I don't even remember what word I used.
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Nick Wildwood
Hell California
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Joined: 04/16/2008
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I just wanted to check in and say that we love our 1977 Mini Winnie. It has a Dodge 360 on a MB300 chassis. Forget that old 'Chevy Van' song from the 70s. This is my pimped out Dodge Van. Of course we have updated the stereo and other electronics, replaced plumbing, fixed the roof, and rebuilt the engine, but it's paid for and it rocks!
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Leeann
Maryland
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Joined: 08/22/2006
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Hi, Nick - welcome!
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Leeann
Maryland
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Dang, double post after a forum error...
Oh, and by the way: it's paid for is our mantra 
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ALnCORY
Idaho
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Joined: 10/06/2005
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WTG Nick,
I am still working through all the repairs to mine but its paid for as I go.
I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!
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trumptman88
Beaumont, CA.
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Joined: 11/09/2007
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Figured I would chime in here and stop lurking. I own a 1971 Winnebago that is... as the saying goes... paid for. I'm putting the carb back on this week after having had it rebuilt and discovered it needed to be rebuilt after pulling the gas tank to have it chemically treated and coated due to rust.
I bought it running for $1000. Since then it has been mostly cosmetic stuff and fixing the loose ends of several other "upgrades." My most recent bit of fun involved putting in a city water hook up since the only hook up it had involved the tank for the previous pressurized system. You can imagine my surprise when I also discovered that the new plastic tank while a nice thought, had no return air outlet.
It is a M300 chassis with a 318. I don't think I have read about too many of these in here compared to the 440's. I had a local garage redo the brakes in all four corners. It was a bit pricey but I simply don't trust myself with brakes of this vintage and knowing what to do and spot on something this old.
You must go... to where the Rooster Crows
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Leeann
Maryland
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Joined: 08/22/2006
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Welcome, Trumptman!
There are several here with 318s, so you're not alone.
Ah, the fun of fixing the piece of junk 'fixes.' I think that's most of what we do on our rigs, personally.
If you're not comfortable doing the brakes yourself, paying to have them done is definitely worth it. Being able to stop is incredibly important
* This post was
edited 05/12/08 09:29pm by an administrator/moderator *
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Griff in Fairbanks
Alaska
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Joined: 04/21/2005
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trumptman88 wrote:It is a M300 chassis with a 318. I don't think I have read about too many of these in here compared to the 440's. I had a local garage redo the brakes in all four corners. It was a bit pricey but I simply don't trust myself with brakes of this vintage and knowing what to do and spot on something this old.
I have a 1970/1969 Explorer on a M300 chassis with a 318-3 engine. (I also have a 1972 Executive on a M375 chassis and a 1974 Explorer in a RM300 chassis.)
If you have problems with the brakes -- especially if you find yourself having to pump them up -- let me know. These older motorhomes had a special brake bleeding procedure that many repair shops don't know about. (Especially if you have the separate booster/slave-cylinders mounted on the frame rails.)
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis ... no engine or tranny (yet)
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