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Open Roads Forum  >  Class B - Camping Van Conversions

 > AC, DC, Inverter, LP - I think I have choice overload!!!

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kittierue

Wake Forest, NC

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Posted: 12/31/04 01:11pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Another patently "newbie" question. So I'm driving down the road with my fridge on. I've probably opted NOT to use LP on the road because my gas filler is on the same side as fridge, and I hate explosives.

I can have my fridge on DC, or - can I have it on AC provided by the inverter? Is that even possible? I noticed that when the inverter is on, the meecrowave isn't on. Or is it just silly to convert the DC to AC so the fridge can run on AC?

Thank you so much, y'all! I'm planning my first big trip to the West, right now...


Regards,
Kittie-Rue

2004 RT190V Chevy - lovin' it!

"It used to be only death and taxes were inevitable. Now, of course, there's shipping and handling, too."

ARcruiser

Benton, AR USA

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Posted: 12/31/04 01:20pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

AFAIK, the inverter in not gonna power the fridge, rear a/c, or m/w.

While driving, 12v DC would be your only option for the refrigerator if you choose not to run on propane (unless you run the generator which is not a good option).

The inverter most likely powers the TV, detectors, interior lights and I don't know what else...

The 110v AC circuit that the rear a/c, microwave and refrigerator are on should only work when on shore power or the generator is running.

AND A HINT:
The day before heading out, start cooling down the refrigerator either in LP mode or thru shore power.... and load it with cold stuff.... 12v DC mode is the least efficient, so if you start out with it already cooled down with cool stuff in it, it has a better chance of "maintaining" coolness... It doesn't have to try to start from scratch.

AND ANOTHER IMPORTANT HINT:
Make sure the van is relatively level when parked and running the refrigerator. If the van is very unlevel it can cause blockages in the ammonia absorption cooling system and ruin your very expensive refrigerator. While driving, the constant motion of the vehicle prevents these blockages.

* This post was edited 12/31/04 01:28pm by ARcruiser *


2 Big Cruisers, The Little Man, and Bailey / ARcruiser's Class B's (the first 8)
Rig #8 Under Construction! / Here's the Project Thread - I'm actually working on it again!


2oldman

Moses Lake

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Posted: 12/31/04 02:47pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Short answer, yes, you can run a fridge on inverter. They draw about 300 watts. That's a pretty good load, but if you're driving your alternator should keep up. And they're not on constantly either.

As for the 12v, three-way fridges aren't that common, but, if yours truly does run in 12v, that would be more efficient than running off the inverter. The above poster said it isn't efficient, but I'm not sure if he means electrically efficient, or cooling efficient.


"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

ARcruiser

Benton, AR USA

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Posted: 12/31/04 04:04pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I warned kittierue, via pm, that it might be best to wait for further responses regarding my possible misinformation.

I'm not sure if he means electrically efficient, or cooling efficient.

I may be wrong, but I thought the 12v mode on 3-way fridges did a poorer job at cooling than the 110v and LP modes.

All of the 4 Class B's we have owned had 3-way refrigerators.
I don't believe any of 'em would run the refrigerator on 110v via the inverter while driving. My belief is that it had to be switched to 12v DC operation while driving.

And I do not believe the 110v receptacle that the refrigerator is plugged into is set up to run via the inverter.

I believe kittierue has a 2004 RT 190P Chevy

Roadtrek experts..... Your turn!

* This post was edited 12/31/04 07:01pm by ARcruiser *

My Roadtrek

Tucson, AZ.

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Posted: 12/31/04 05:42pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

From what I have read there is no difference in cooling when using ether ac, or propane, however dc is not as efficient.


Visit My Roadtrek


Handbasket

Asheville, NC

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Posted: 12/31/04 05:44pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:


.... My belief is that it had to be switched to 12v DC operation while driving.

And I do not believe the 110v receptacle that the refrigerator is plugged into is set up to run via the inverter.

I believe kittierue has a 2004 RT 190P Chevy

Roadtrek experts..... Your turn!



No 'xpert' here... , but I'll take a whack at it. I think RT now offers a factory-installed inverter option (maybe with/for the LCD TV?), but I'm not really sure. At any rate, it almost certainly would not be wired to the reefer, probably just to a receptacle, maybe for the TV. And it'd be a heckuva drain on battery power to go thru an inverter to run the reefer on 110V, tho' I suppose it'd cool better, for a shorter time. Not sure if the inverter could handle the load.

It is a 3-way reefer. It cools, but kinda poorly, on 12Vdc. Works OK in that mode in cooler weather with the engine running, not so well in hot weather, and will flatten the house battery fairly quickly with the engine off. Will run da-n near forever off a full propane tank, tho'.

Best advice is to get a cheap wireless thermometer and use the remote sensor to monitor temp inside, keeping the read-out on the dash; use 12V when driving, but switch to propane when temp in the box starts to rise. There's some debate as to whether the thermostat controls the 12V circuit, but I always turn it toward 'maximum cool' in that mode anyway; makes me feel better, at least.

Unless they've changed it since the '01-'02's, it always has to switched between modes manually.

My cheap champers is in the reefer now, cooling by propane, and I'm posting this (and keeping warm) by candlelight . Waste not, want not, is my motto when it comes to battery power...

Jim, from the back of the RT downtown, wishing y'all "Happy Winter Solstice Celebration!"


'06 Tiger CX 'C Minus' on a Silverado 2500HD 4x4, 8.1 & Allison (aka 'Loafer's Glory') www.tigervehicles.com

My Roadtrek

Tucson, AZ.

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Posted: 12/31/04 05:57pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If anyone is interested there is a good article about Dometic maintenance on my web site. http://www.myroadtrek.homestead.com/Articles.html Just select the refrigeration link.

karlstream

Gig Harbor, WA,USA

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Posted: 12/31/04 07:28pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A couple of years ago when I had to replace my Dometic 3 way refer, I decided to save some money and only get the 2 way model (propane and 110v) and power the thing with an inverter while on the road. I also noticed that my old refer didn't cool as well when on 12v. I checked the specs and found the 12 volt heater was sized smaller than the 110 volt heater and naturally would provide less cooling. My new setup with the inverter powered 110v seems to work a lot better than my old one running on 12v.

ARcruiser

Benton, AR USA

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Posted: 01/01/05 08:53am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My understanding is that the 2way's do cooler better than the 3-way's in 12v mode....

I believe 2-way's are not ammonia absorption type.

The GTRV Westy, P'Way Traverse and others have the 2-ways.

Evy3634

GA

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Posted: 01/01/05 09:36am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had no problem running my frig (It's a 2-way, so perhaps that makes a difference?) on 12 volt power and keeping things cold during a 2 1/2 week dry camping trip. (It got overly cold actually. I had the thermostat set too high and several sodas exploded. What a mess.) I did cool the contents before I started out, as suggested, and I drove the van every day, which kept the battery charged. I imagine dry camping for more than a day or so would drain the battery pretty quickly.

Happy travels in 2005.


2005 Gulfstream Vista Cruiser - "Rosie"
before that - 1979 Minnie Winnie - "George"

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