walkeraw wrote: I plan on getting a small capacity transfer switch to handle only a few essential circuits in the house. I do not need a large capacity switch. The 4000/3500 Champion would be large enough to satisfy the power needs of the devices on the transfer switch/circuits. I do not foresee these devices/circuits power requirements changing in the future. If my 4000/3500 Champion dies/burns up/whatever, I would think I should be able to replace it with a larger generator (i.e. 4.5k, 5k, or 7.5k) without having to also replace the transfer switch. Just because a generator has the ability to provide extra power doesn't mean that the extra power will be used. I still don't understand how this can cause problems. Is this just a marketing ploy to sell more transfer switches or is it that I cannot see the forest for the trees?
Best to get the explanation directly from the source. (pun intended)
info@gen-tran.com
Bob R.
Bob, Martha, and Matt
'95 Coachmen Catalina Sport 275QB
oh, and Tucker, the Toy Poodle Toprudder.com
mitt wrote: Which brands have the most honest marketing department?
The HP versus engine cc seems to correlate pretty well:
But, the rated watts and HP do not, it seems like BlueMax and Champion are very optimistic, and are probably not accurate to true ratings:
mitt
Seems to me Champion & Blue Max certainly think outside the BOX of truthful advertisement. apparently? Someone will let us know the real truth one day. Some pretty smart men and instruments around these parts and the truth shall be known.
* This post was
edited 01/11/08 06:18am by Old & Slow *
fourwinds29Q wrote: I took my champion to a National Park and ran it during daylight hours only. I got my feelings hurt when I shut it down and the people in the tents started clapping. OOpps didnt mean to tick them off but it sure was nice having a/c to cool off in.
Well even though I own a Champion and a generator, I'm often of the same opinion when I am out in my tent. This is partially why I think even the snootiness of the Honda and Yamaha owners is lame. If you get far enough into nature and away from the artificial noise of man, then any and every noise is intrusive be it 58 db or 67 db.
When I camp in a campground where it is tents or trailers limited to say... 22 or under feet, I don't want to hear a generator.
If I am in a campground, or a state or national park area where larger trailers are the norm, then I don't mind it for battery charging or the middle of the day heat. However calling yourself camping and then running it 10-16 hours a day is just silly.
Yea these people were clapping from the other side of the campground. We were camping with other units running quieter units. All I could say was "Sorry".
(Quoted)
>Many of us who contribute to this thread almost bought the PowerMax
>Brand. I am interest to know more of what you discover as time goes
>by.
The Powermax brand is one that is sold by MaxTool.com. About 2 years ago, I bought one of the 3500 watt/4400 watt surge models with electric start for $379 plus tax. Went to Los Angeles from San Diego to pick it up, spent $50 in gas, round trip - saved on shipping.
To sum it up, fired up on first try, forgot to do the 'break-in' period, still gave me Yeoman service! It's downfall with me was,
I do light welding with a 120 volt MIG and it would trip the breaker on one side about every 3rd-4th time I'd pull the trigger, as it did not have a 120 volt switch to put both fields into phase for full current, nor did it have a 30 amp 3 prong twist lock outlet. That REALLY was the only problem, underpowered on the 120 side because of it. Sold it to a hispanic fellow at a car wash we frequent who had a mobile car detailing biz on the side that he was setting up.
Now I'm out for the Champion C41365 that Prof95 referenced in one of
his posts. No worries about being underpowered with that beast! LOL!
(Newbie, to this discussion board), Ron here. Been readin all 500
plus pages over the last few months, been achin to get on here
to post. With all the discussions of Honda 'clones', I've become
rather sold on the Champion brand. I don't have an RV but I do need
one to run a 120v MIG welder in my work, so a full head of
30 amp steam at 120v is what I need. Otherwise, the 3500 is
real nice as it's pretty quiet for what it is... Of course the
bigger engines are louder (15 or so horsepower for the C41365 model),
the one that I have chosen, but it's not as loud as the "Contractor"
models that are north of 76dB.. yikes! Funny, Kragen Auto has the
SKU in their system for it with a price of $974 (ouch!) but they
can't order it for some dumb reason.. so by some dumb luck, I called
Champion tech support one day and got this outfit on the east coast
on the phone, and am working on a much better deal pricewise. We
shall see what it goes for. I'm not saying what I might get it for,
but shootin for about 1/2 to 2/3 of that amount.
Please tell us if you will, is there a instrument available on the market that would be affordable to us folks with shallow pockets, that can measure and hold a PEAK wattage draw? We do have a right to know some real FACTS about what we buy with the Champion name. Do they just pull numbers out of a hat?
I am still disturbed about all the numbers Champion gives on various models (which you say all have the same genhead) in Bloody Bold print on their gennys.
If you will please leave a link to a Peak and hold meter.
Please tell us if you will, is there a instrument available on the market that would be affordable to us folks with shallow pockets, that can measure and hold a PEAK wattage draw? We do have a right to know some real FACTS about what we buy with the Champion name. Do they just pull numbers out of a hat?
I am still disturbed about all the numbers Champion gives on various models (which you say all have the same genhead) in Bloody Bold print on their gennys.
If you will please leave a link to a Peak and hold meter.
Floyd
O&S
Not prof here, but the cheapest method I have seen is a clamp current meter sears sells, that can hold max reading. I do not know how accurate a meter can be for $30 to $40, but it may be good enough. If you use a line splitter, or an extension cord like I showed a couple pages back, you should be able to measure peak current, then multiple by 120V to get a rough idea on peak watts.
Just discovered something. I have a new (Christmas gift)CEN-TECH 95683 that has a Peak Hold button. Can it capture the vary quick peak of a compressor at startup? When do you push the button, before the startup of the compressor? Many things can be discovered through sharing and inter-acting with each other on this forum. When open discussion is in use in truthfulness and kindness.
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Someone will let us know the real truth one day. Some pretty smart men and instruments around these parts and the truth shall be known.
