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Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes

 > Valve Extenders or Valve Stems

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tony2jana

Tenn

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Posted: 05/06/05 09:26pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Why do most choose the extenders vice installing real brass or chrome valve stems? Is it cost? or is there more to it? Thinking about getting the real ones for myself.


Tony GYSGT USMC Retired
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tonigil

Whitehouse Station, New Jersey, USA

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Posted: 05/06/05 09:31pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We were told that the chrome valve extenders would be best because they were more flexible and would last longer and because they are sturdier. The cost was a little more. Don't remember what the price difference was. We did have it done at CW a year ago and we are very pleased with the installation. Toni


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CrossCountryNomad

Box Elder, SD

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Posted: 05/06/05 09:49pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've been using valve extenders for years without problems. The main reason I went with extenders instead of valve stems is cost. Have you ever had to have a 22.5 tire unmounted, broke down, installed a valve stem and then remounted. Not cheap. The extenders where much cheaper, they work fine and last a long time...

HiTech

Texas

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Posted: 05/07/05 07:11am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I originally got the screw on flexible extenders because my dealer recommended them when I was having trouble filling and checking my inner duals, and I did not know any better.

Strike one was when the inner went down to 30 lbs the day after they were installed due to a leak - they were not installed tightly enough and worked loose on one tire. And it happened between the dealer and home, and does not show visually.

Strike 2 - I read on the package that they are not to be used on the stock rubber & brass valve stems, but many people install them anyway. The stock stems are not made to handle the extra stress.

Strike 3, many on here have had flats or blow outs due to these devices.

Since I would need new metal valve stems to use extenders safely *anyway*, I decided just to go with solid metal stems of a convenient length. I got mine from the Tire Man at http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/~tire-man/valve.html

Jim

* This post was edited 06/04/05 01:55pm by HiTech *

tonigil

Whitehouse Station, New Jersey, USA

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Posted: 05/07/05 07:22am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

HiTech wrote:

Strike 2 - I read on the package that they are not to be used on the stock rubber & brass valve stems, but many people install them anyway. The stock stems are not made to handle the extra stress.


This is exactly what CW told us, we need the valves changed. Replaced stems with metal ones. They did that while installing the extenders. Of course that cost a little more but it is worth it for the no hassle. Toni

HiTech

Texas

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Posted: 05/08/05 06:12am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I also forgot to mention that with the extenders, my tires always lost a few pounds here and there. With solid stems I have gone many months without having to add even 1 psi of air to any tire.

If you are going to run extenders, putting them on all metal valve stems is how I would go too.

Some people have had very good luck with them. I think some of the issues have to do with how much they move when driving down the road. If they flop back and forth every time the wheel goes around, it seems like they could work loose enough to leak. I had also thought about using some removable lock tite on the threads before I just ditched mine all together.

Jim

TonyMin

Walnut Creek CA

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Posted: 05/08/05 08:03am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So, let's look at this.
You can get the solid valves and have them installed by them breaking down the bead on one side.
You have to do the same thing with the extenders unless you already have metal stems. And hardly anyone does. So the labor cost is the same. Then if you add the cost of the extenders and the new short metal valves they are probably about the same price as solid long valves.
Pros and Cons:
The extenders do something a valve is not meant to do. It holds open the metal valve and extends by adding length. But it also adds a connection that can leak since the short metal valve is now under the pressure of the tire.
The only con I noticed with the long metal valves is that it is kind of scary to see a guy fix a flat with this long valve sticking out. But if he is careful and doesn't bump it you are fine.

So the cost is almost the same. The tires need to be broken down to install either properly. But with the solid ones you are less prone to leaks because you are using the valve for what it was intended and you have one less connection.

The perfect time to have it done is when you get some new tires. Your installer will be motivated to install them since he is selling you a set of tires. So, installation should basically be free then.


'98 Shasta Cheyenne 280 highrise, widebody


oldsmoboat

Grass Valley, CA

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Posted: 05/08/05 08:14am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have the extensions and wheel liners. The ends of the extensions are mounted to the "hub cap" of the liners. Pop riveted to small brackets.
We recently had new tires put on. We then drove about 40 miles and when we got out, we had a flat. The shop didn't secure the cap properly and it had come off taking one of the extensions with it.

HiTech

Texas

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Posted: 05/08/05 11:32am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That is a HUGE no-no. Attaching flexible valve extenders to hub caps or wheel simulators that do not bolt on. They tried to do this on mine and I told them that was insane - because of exactly what happened to you. It will rip the rubber valve stem right out. With a metal valve stem, it *might* hold on, but it would just beat the snot out of anything within range until you stopped.

Jim

lonewolf57

Southwest Michigan

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Posted: 05/08/05 12:06pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use use the rubber valve extenders with bolt on wheel simulators.As Hi Tech said,loctite does a good job and I've never lost any significant amount of air pressure after 4,000 miles.I always check the tires pressure before and after any long trip,so far,so good.I installed them new with new tires and would do so again when I need new tires in a few years.I remove all 6 wheels/tires myself and roll them in for replacement,rather than trusting the sometimes careless installers to re-install them properly.I can rest assured that it was done right.


1976 Class 'C' Coachmen 22' Ford E-350/460cu.in. 2nd Proud Owner.
'takes a lickin'...keeps on tickin'

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