And finally, you have a Ford chassis, they just don't ever go down the road like some others. An alignment, tire pressure, steer safe will help, but Ford twin I beam is notorious for vague feel. I would also have your ball joints and steering links checked. They can wear in 30-60 thousand miles, it's another bad Ford twin I beam trait.
Currently drive a Ford chassis MH, have previously driven both Chevy & Dodge. The 2005 Minnie is, by far, the most stable. The Chevy by far the worst. In my experience, the 2005 Ford drives very well - almost immune to cross winds that would have blown me off the road in other MH's.
Gary & Liesel
Cocoa, our Chocolate Lab companion
2013 Tiffin 30 GA
2004 Honda Element Toad
There is a 4 wheel weighing service in your area, you can call 586-246-3048 and they will come to your rig and weigh you. Your problems could be unevenly loaded weight(balance) and improper tire pressures for the load.
'04 Mobile Suites 36 TK3 #1341
'99 Int'l 4700 Lo Pro MDT
'08 Lexus 400H
You are describing "bump steer," one of a collection of handling differences you may experience, going from a car to a heavily loaded truck with a big box on back. The swing-arm geometry of Ford Twin I-beam suspension is prone to bump steer, but other truck suspension designs are not free of this tendency.
No, the writer is not describing "bump steer". Bump steer occurs when the arc through which the end of the steering arm moves is different from the arc through which the end of the steering knuckle wants to move as the suspension travels through its range of motion.
Bump steer problems are most common on suspensions that incorporate upper and lower wishbone members, an off-center steering box and unequal length steering arms. Since the steering arms are longer than the wishbones and usually angle downwards at rest, the spindle tends to toe in during bump travel and out during rebound if the steering knuckle is behind the spindle and the opposite if it is ahead of the spindle.
The condition is less pronounced on vehicles with wishbones or front strut suspensions and rack-and-pinion steering.
The Ford I-beam suspension exhibits relatively little "bump steer" simply because the beams are so long that the steering knuckles on the ends describe very little arc throughout their range of motion.
What causes the wandering sensation on the Ford I-beam suspensions is usually a combination of tire treads and sidewalls that lack stiffness and the Ford practice of using too little castor and kingpin inclination in this suspension application in an effort to quicken steering response in a vehicle designed primarily for intra-city delivery.
I had the same problem and I had a Safe T Plus steering stabilizer installed . No longer have the sway, check your tire air pressure, on Ford E-450 front 65psi and rear 80psi also your airbag may be low I usually keep my at 70 lbs.
When I bought my Dodge Scotty 25 footer It had 8 ply tires and It had a little sway. It was a used and 1995 and 10 years old with the original tires, time to replace them so I bought 10 ply plus put Rancho shocks all around. Then I loaded It down ready for a trip but first a front end alignment. She drives like a dream now.The Motor Home has a air bag I call It on the rear but you don't put any air IN them one for each side.One thing now big trucks don't push me as they did before, which Is great.When I had the Holiday Rambler 36 foot and If I wasn't paying attention and a big rig would scare the hell out of me.Just suck the front seat up your butt.Then It would a couple of miles to get me calm down.So far that hasn't happen so far.
Wife bought me another Motor Home I guess she was tired of me crying.
"OutOfHere" may be headed down the right path. I bought a Class C on Ford running gear and had a significant wandering problem. A friend who is a retired Ford mechanic told me how to properly adjust the steering box. First thing to do is to test the play in the box by moving the steering wheel back and forth with the M/H not moving and the engine turned off. Too much play? Try adjusting the steering box adjustment screw a little at a time (and I do mean a little). You do not want to over tighten the screw since the steering wheel will not come back to center after turning a corner if the screw is too tight. It took me two or three tries to get it right and less than an hour. I have no add-ons to my M/H and it drives great now. I hope that is your problem because it costs nothing to fix it. Good luck.
I have to put my 2 cents in here. The problem you described is characteristic of a front end in need of alignment. It's very important that you load the rig and set it up the way you'll usually drive it. The tire pressure must be set to the RV manufacturer's specs. Set the pressure in your air bags then fill the water, propane and gas to the levels you think you'll run at. I had mine lined up with a full tank of water, propane and gas. The airbags had 40 psi in them and the front tires ran at 70 psi, the rear tires at 80 psi.
I've had 2 RV's built on the E450 chassis, a Winnebago Minnie 27 and a Minnie Winnie 27. They both wandered and followed cracks in the road, not to mention being blown across the road by 18 wheelers and cross winds. Keeping the front end aligned really improved the handling and stability. it made driving enjoyable again.
* This post was
edited 12/28/05 06:07am by DaveP *
Me, my wife and two very spoiled dogs(mini doxies).
2005 Rialta 22QD (favorite toy)