It appears to me that a pretty good gain in mpg can be gained by driving at 60 mph with 6.0 in the Trail Lites. I have had vehicles with the 5.7 (350), 5.0 (305) and also 327,307 and 267 V8s and the 6.0 seems to have so much more torque but without the expected decrease in fuel economy. Perhaps the newer designed engine and fuel injection style and heavy duty 4spd OD lock up tranny make the difference. I hope to install a Scan Gauge to monitor some engine parameters. My guess is the torque curve and fuel flow and OD shift point rpm have a sweet spot around 58-60 mph.
I read elsewhere in the forum that Monaco will keep open the Warsaw IN plant in their downsizing plans. That is where the T/Ls where built. I toured it last year with the R-V camping club rally.
Bill & Maggie
LT USNR Ret.
2003 Trail Lite 211 B+
Chevy 6.0L
My 213 has 11,500 miles on it of which I have put half on it mostly towing my 05 GMC Sierra full size pick-up (4,400 Lbs) or my wife's Honda Accord (3,000 lbs?) plus a tow dolly, gets about the same mileage. It does seem to be getting better though. Our first trip to Mobile, Al was bobtail and we averaged about 11.5 over all with a lot of city driving (no toad) driving about 800 miles round trip. On subsequent trips to Mobile we towed the pick-up (4 wheels down) and got 10.5 to ll.5 depending on speed and wind.
Last month we journeyed to Kansas City, Mo for a 1500 mile trip over 8 days towing the Honda. Towing the Honda was easier than using a tow-bar on the pick-up. Plus it made the RV ride much better. Almost every fill-up averaged 11.5 mostly @ 55 60 mph range through Alabama, Mississippi, Tennessee, and Arkansas. Then we ran interstates to Kansas City and back home through Illinois, Kentucky, and Tennessee averaging 11.8 mpg every tank-full running 65 mph.
I think with it getting more broke in it is getting better MPG, plus I think it is geared for the 60 - 65 mph with the 4.11 gears.
We love the size and drive-ability of the R-Vision Trail-lite, but like every-one else, we are working on the rattles.
Yellowhammer
2004 Trail-lite
2004 Honda Accord toad
We will be picking up a Malibu Maxx which I hope to set up for occasinal towing. Any real world experiences with towing a Toad behind a B+, especially the rear door version like mine. I know a couple of you tow trailers, which I also did one time, but I was curious to get some first person accounts on pulling a car. Don't see many small rigs pulling Toads but there are times I think it would come in handy.
Happy Jack. We have a Trail Lite 211S and we tow our Saturn Vue behind it most of the time. You know its back there but it tows well. Have a Brake Buddy to aid in the stopping. As you mentioned the rear door set up makes it a bit difficult to put the tow bar into the receiver with the fold up steps in the way and when you park you can't leave the tow bars on the MH because of the steps.
Dick & Judy
'05 Montana Mountaneer TT 35'
'03 Trail Lite 211 S
'05 Saturn Vue Toad
1 Bassett Hound - Beauregard
We also have the rear door Trail Lite and frequently tow an enclosed trailer with full dress motorcycle inside. Those rear steps work great except when you use the receiver. We bought a compact fold up stool (Camping World sells them for around $9.99). We just set that on the ground to the side of the trailer hitch and step around the tongue. The bike is the local transportation - fair weather only.
cheeze1 wrote: My '05 213 averages from 10 around town to 13+ on the highway. After some growing pains, and a bonehead inattention to a water leak when the rig was built, resulting in a soaked floor under the 'protective' plastic cover, our big baby has performed well. I love the Chevy chassis, and it's actually the first vehicle I've owned with 300 hp. I also dumped the heavy tv and rebuilt the box, and in the process of adding speakers to the stereo, had the good fortune to remove the cab headliner and with the liberal use of Great Stuff and silicone sealer, eliminated a LOT of rattles, as in other areas of the coach. It's not silent, but the silverware seems to take the edge off. The Four Winds versions are quite similar, but I cannot attest to the quality aside from the few posts I've seen from owners who seem to like theirs as well..
Fly boy, I got an Element Brand tv at Circuit City. It is around 20" instead of the 23 that was there, it is just a better view. I have not mounted it, since I did not want to worry about it shaking in the mount, and wanted more cabinet space. I took out the old tv, and built a box of 1/2 plywood using the dimensions of the opening and the space left in the cabover area. I used the old maple frame that held the old tv 'in place' and inserted a piece of 1/4" birch plywood, and made that into a top hinged door. I included a short 'shelf' at the 'back' of the new box, about 6" from the top, and made a contoured bracket the shape of the rear of the flatscreen, and mounted that in a position where it could bear most of the weight, which is not much. In transit, the tv lays in a pad, on those 2 surfaces, held by bungee cord, and the door is closed. The area under the tv is big enough for a number of blankets or a whole lot of clothes. When we park, I take out the tv, stand it on the base of the 'box' and hold the door up with the bungee. I didn't go into a 'self opening' type of strut because I don't want to encourage any more rattles than I have.
Dunno if I have pix, but I will check.
I just wanted to publicly thank those who have responded to my queries about quality, issues, camper size, etc. I have finally come to the realization that the availability of a reliable dealer is quite important and accordingly have plunked down a deposit on a slightly used Lexington 255 GTS that is at a dealer about 15 minutes away. The dealer sells new Lexington, Four Winds and Jayco units but this one comes the closest to our wish list for size and features. I am seriously thinking about getting the extended warranty. I'm told by the dealer that there is only a 30 day warranty on the camper (remainder of factory warranty on the Ford chassis). Any thoughts on this that anybody wants to contribute would be greatly appreciated. They want about $1900 for a one year extended warranty and I'm concerned I won't find out everything it might need in the first 30 days.
TrueLarry - You are headed down the right track, the dealer is likely the most important person in the purchase of a RV. It is that salesman/owner that wants your repeat business. I have also found this to be true with Insurance; it is the agent and not the brand name.
As to the extended warranty, I personally would pass on that price. Some people, however, like the security feeling. The majority of your house appliances have already survived the "infant mortality" stage. Likely the most expensive component is the generator followed by the refrigerator, and then the rest (microwave, furnace, water heater, converter/charger, awning, air conditioner, TV, slide mechanism etc.)are in the $500 range or less. It seems to be a little high in price to bet that you will have an expensive component fail between 30 days and 1 year. It probably will not fail during the winter months while in storage. If you suspect a water leak, then have it positive air pressure tested before you take it off the lot. Fixing water leak damage can get expensive.
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