Grillmeister
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I removed the old carpet yesterday and was surprised to find that it was one piece from the rear dinette all the way up to the firewall.
Another big surprise was that none of it went under the cabinets. I have been told at least a dozen times that the carpet was put in before the cabinets and I would have to cut it out. It did look like it was under the cabinets going inside storage areas. But it was folded under on the edges and stapled down. It wasn’t even trimmed very even, in some places it was folded under one inch and others up to four inches. Even the guy at the upholstery place told me the only way to do it right was to take out all the cabinets (he would do it for $2000. I knew that wasn’t going to work because the cabinets are built so poorly if you took them out they would fall apart (staples and hot glue).
So far so good, the carpet is supposed to be in by next weekend and then the fun will begin.
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Amberbunny
newport news
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Joined: 02/23/2005
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Wow,
really surprised there aren't more lazy folks liek me willing to pay for someone to have doen this work before. I don't want to get it ripped out and then realize I am in over my head (see tatonka restoration on other guys post; birdsong I believe) I was hoping this could be done for $600 or less. I am dreaming. It seems my coach was carpeted, and then cabinets were framed around and on top of it. I wanted a very finished product and I don't know how to get it under the cabinets and such. I reckon I could put it down and then put trim along the floor, no? Seems logical to me, but I am a dunce.
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HiTech
SE Michigan
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Joined: 03/22/2002
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Mine was built with cabinets on top of the carpet. I just left that carpet, cutting out any little threads that still stuck out. The finished product looked better than new.
No reason to overcomplicate it in my book. A carpet layer can cut the old one out and put the new one in, though in my mind cutting the old one out just makes the job easier if you decide to pay someone.
Jim
2002 Gulfstream Conquest Class C
Rolling wired and wireless network
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Amberbunny
newport news
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Hi Tech,
did you install molding over the carpet where it meets the cabinets? I really want it to look finished, but wonder about flex . . . would I connect that to the cabinets or the floor?
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HiTech
SE Michigan
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Nope! Did not need any. Looked finished. I started a little big and trimmed until it fit snug.
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Grillmeister
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Amberbunny
I installed my carpet last weekend the hottest weekend of the year of course, the install took two 12 hour days (33 BEERS and a few Tequila shooters at the end of the day for pain killer). I already had the old carpet removed and the floor prepped from the week before.
I think it took so long because I am a perfectionist and carpet leaves some room for judgment. So every trim and fit was a tedious exercise in frustration for me. I do much better on a table saw and a piece of wood that I can measure to a sixty-fourth of an inch.
HiTech thought his install was fairly easy, I would have to say for me it seemed about an 8 out of 10 for difficulty. Most of that is probably due to me trying to make it too perfect and having never laid any kind of carpet before. The irregular shapes in the driver and passenger area were the most difficult.
I did fold the carpet under about an inch and staple the edges just as it was before. I have also seen a fairly new Lazy Daze MH that was done this way from the factory (you could see where they stapled it IMHO). You have to pick out a carpet that is flexible to do this, some of the carpet I looked at was so stiff you could hardly bend it, this wouldn’t work at all.
You would think it would show a lot considering I didn’t use any padding. The edge should look thicker but it doesn’t. The stapling compresses it down and you work the stapler like a modeling tool to make it look right. The staple I used is called a “Narrow Crown” it’s about 1/4 inch wide and 5/8 inch long, I used stainless steel staples so they wouldn't rust like the old ones. The carpet I got has such a thick pile it was difficult to spread the carpet fibers to staple between. Most of the edges look perfect, a couple of spots are a little bumpy but acceptable, the Lazy Daze I saw was pretty noticeable. Mine will not need any molding to cover anything,
I started by making cardboard template for the big hallway piece and was able to do it with out any seams. I also was able to do the cab area with out any seams too. Rather than put in a bunch of screws to hold the carpet and padding in the cab area I used spray glue, I went all the way up the firewall and it worked great.
Check out the pics and see if you can tell where it is stapled.
click here for pics
I am very happy the way it turned out, even by my standards. It is so plush it feels like it has padding.
I don’t know if I would want to do it again, but lots of projects turn out that way sometimes.
Hope this helps,
Gary
* This post was
edited 07/26/05 01:49pm by Grillmeister *
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joanne0012
Boston, MA
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Wow, Gray, that looks fabulous. I have a 10-year-old Lazy Daze that needs new carpeting, and your photos sure make it look feasible (fortunately, I'm not a perfectionist). Thanks so much for hints like the type of staples, and pointing out about selecting carpet that's easy to fold. Do you have any further hints to offer regarding materials or techniques -- any special edging (eg top of step) that wouldn't be evident to the average Home Depot afficionado?
Joanne
1994 Lazy Daze 23.5' TK
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Grillmeister
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Quote:Do you have any further hints to offer regarding materials or techniques -- any special edging (eg top of step) that wouldn't be evident to the average Home Depot afficionado?
My steps were originally carpeted, they were completely trashed. I just fixed the floor and sides with new 1/2 inch plywood and covered in vinyl. I made some walnut moldings for the sides and got some 1/8 by 1+ 1/2 inch angle aluminum at the hardware store for the top step edge. I counter sunk some stainless flathead screws to hold it from the top down to compress the carpet edge and then covered it with some non skid tape, the rubber kind not the kind like sandpaper. The sand paper kind rubs off particles and will scratch the vinyl. That top edge is perfect because that is the first place you step up to and the first place to wear out. For the first step I cut this door mat in half and rounded the edges. It catches the dirt protects the vinyl and you just lift it out and shake clean. I used the same non skid tape for the original aluminum extrusions on the first step edge too.
I used a standard 1+1/2 inch plain aluminum door sill for the carpet edge between the hallway and the bath and painted it to match and counter sunk the screws there also. I had already done my bath floor in vinyl when I replaced the toilet. I am going to cut some of the left over carpet to fit and have the edges bound so I will have a custom throw for the bath floor that can be taken out to dry.
You will need a dozen razor blades or more for your knife, I couldn’t believe how fast they got dull when cutting the carpet.
The cab area original carpeting was held in with about 20 self drilling screws. I filled the holes with pop rivets and covered with sealer. Even if you were going to install your new carpet with screws I don’t know how you could use the same holes.
Use knee pads and gloves, carpet is really abrasive, by the time I figured it out I was already raw on my knees and knuckles.
That is all I can think of for now.
Gary
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Grillmeister
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I received a couple PMs on this topic, here is the response in case it will help someone else.
I bought the best grade household carpet I could find in the style and color I wanted. My hallway piece was 12' 6'' long so I bought 14' of a 12' wide roll. So for the 12' X 14' piece of carpet I paid $519 out the door, I have lots left over. I don't know if that is a good price or not because I just went to the place I buy my household carpet from. You need a really tight nap so when you bend it around the corners of the dinette and driver’s area it doesn't open up and show the bottom weave. It has all the standard wear and stain warranties. If you ask, the carpet store will usually mail a 12" square sample to your home for a color match, if you did that you could practice folding and stapling on the sample.
I laid the carpet with the extra part curved up on the wall and then folded it down flat to trim from the back. I needed about an inch extra to fold under, but you would have to experiment with the particular carpet that you get. I folded it under wherever it met a wall or the dinettes, the corners are a little tricky you have to cut a small square of carpet out of the corners to avoid multiple thickness. Mine is about 5/8" thick and so plush it feels like their is padding under it.
With the new insulation it may be a littler quieter and cooler, but maybe only 10-15 percent, I will have to take a trip and get the DW opinion
I made a template from card board that was an exact fit then I trimmed the carpet about three inches bigger all around and made the final one inch trim inside the MH and then folded it under. I was unable to use the carpet that came out for a template as it came out in pieces.
After waiting two years to finish all the other refirb projects I had going, finally getting the carpet done is great, I can't wait to take it out.
Good luck, Gary
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HiTech
SE Michigan
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I wonder if the high quality carpet cost you more time. I used the thinnest, cheapest carpet that would hide the staples from the staple gun I used. It was really easy to work with and held up for years. Still looked new when I sold it.
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