Bubby's RV
CA
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Joined: 07/22/2003
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I put the circular refrigerator level on the console in front where I can see it when parking. We use the plastic blocks (I call them Leggos, although that's not their real name) when I need to, but in the last 20 trips out, I've used them once or twice. Mostly, I just move until the bubble is level.
John, Winnebago Minnie 24V
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Admiral
Lodi, Ohio
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Joined: 06/08/2003
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It's always a PITA to stack wood or blocks. I drill holes in my 2 X 8s and use my awning pulldown rod to place and adjust them.
Another thing that helps is the pair of bubble levels that have marks on them to tell you how many inches you are out of level so you can do it in one accurate shot.
2004 Damon Daybreak 2960F
05 Honda Element LX
In a democracy two wolves and a sheep can vote on what to have for dinner.
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prchoudh
Southern California
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Joined: 01/03/2004
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I had a Class A and a TT before I bought my first Class C. I have leveling blocks as well on my Class C. I want to use the automatic levelers, those are nice and cost about 3K.
Have you looked at the floorplan of the Fleetwood Tioga 31m? It has a side aisle which allows more privacy for the back bedroom and 2 large aby windows on the side.
One problem that I know with Coachmen, seems to be the quzlity of some of their coached. Be careful.
Another nice one is Winnebago. They come with 4 walkie talkies that charge off of the house batteries.
2006 Fleetwood Tioga 31M(Bilsteins,Safe-T Plus,BANKS,K&N filter,Hellwig Sway Bars,Blue Ox Aventa,US GEAR Unified Tow Brake)
2006 Chevrolet HHR
2006 PT Cruiser Turbo
1 Child & 3 dogs(2 Border Collies and 1 Cocker Spaniel)
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BobS073
Long Island NY
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Joined: 03/24/2005
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Thank you all for the helpfull tips.
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AliCat
Millsboro, De.
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Joined: 11/20/2003
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There seems to be a general feeling that Class C's over 28' (and with a slide)in length will have very limited cargo carrying capacity. I believe that is true with some models but not all. As I was doing my research before buying I found the basement models to have limited CCC but the non basement models had generally acceptable CCC numbers. I looked primarily at the Minnie and Minnie Winnie but I suppose that the other manufacturers that offer both models have the same issues with basement models. So, I wouldn't suggest to anyone that all Class C's over 31' do not have adequate CCC. I would suggest potential buyers look around and see for themselves. In some cases the limited CCC of some basement models may be perfectly acceptable for people with small families and who travel light. While I'm certainly not an advocate of overloading a motorhome I believe that we sometimes overdue the subject.
Art
2005 Winnebago Voyage 33V (Workhorse)
Garmin 2620 Street Pilot
2008 Honda CR-V EX-L
Blue Ox Aventa II, Apollo Brake
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winnietrey
seattle
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Joined: 03/26/2005
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AliCat wrote:There seems to be a general feeling that Class C's over 28' (and with a slide)in length will have very limited cargo carrying capacity. I believe that is true with some models but not all. As I was doing my research before buying I found the basement models to have limited CCC but the non basement models had generally acceptable CCC numbers. I looked primarily at the Minnie and Minnie Winnie but I suppose that the other manufacturers that offer both models have the same issues with basement models. So, I wouldn't suggest to anyone that all Class C's over 31' do not have adequate CCC. I would suggest potential buyers look around and see for themselves. In some cases the limited CCC of some basement models may be perfectly acceptable for people with small families and who travel light. While I'm certainly not an advocate of overloading a motorhome I believe that we sometimes overdue the subject.
I agree sometimes we forget that the ccc is or can be a pretty small percentage of the total vehicle weight. In my case about 4%. Which does not mean that you cannot load your gear stupidly, but it does mean 96% of the weight and distribution of that weight is predetermined. If the rig has a poor design no matter what you do your
going to be fighting it all the time. I think some brands are worse than others in that regard
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# 3 and 8 fan
Berwick, Me.
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Joined: 08/30/2005
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Most of the CCs we've been to aren't off level all that much and can be your "C" can be leveled without a lot of problems. We do the 2"x8" ramps that I have made and attached at two levels, 1'and 2'. The only place I have ever needed more and have had any problem leveling was at the races at New Hampshire International. The wife has seen an air bag set-up that you drive on and pump up, I can't remember the name of them but I'm pretty sure they were around $75 per unit. I guess if your limited to space and weight, that would be the way to go.
Buster
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chockwald
Ontario, CA
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Joined: 02/06/2005
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I have found on soft, sandy ground that if I lay a 2 X 6 in the soft dirt then place the LYNX blocks on top of the 2 X 6 it works great. The 2 X 6 provides a solid platform for the LYNX blocks. Need a 2 X 6 at least 3 to 4 feet long for this to work.
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abradf2519
Poughkeepsie N.Y.
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Joined: 03/02/2004
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I have had both a TT and a class C and I found that it is much easier to level a TT. The MH usually has duals and you need blocks for both wheels, plus more for the fronts if you need them. Also, every time you leave the camp site (like if you don't have a TOAD) you must level again when you come back. In addition, you don't have a jack to raise or lower the front like you do with a TT.
With the TT, I just made sure the TT was level from side to side and then raised or lowered the from until it was level. If it was not level from side to side, I had to back up on a block, but no duals to deal with. With the MH I have to drive up on different levels of bocks that have to be further way from the tire than other higher blocks. Sometimes I was on top of one block and but not on others. What a pain. Hydraulic jacks are a real convienience with a MH.
My MH is low in the front so I must always drive on on blocks, even if I find a level spot to park. The upside is that you really don't need stabilizers because the suspension of a class C is so hard that it doesn't really move around that much.
It probably evens out between a TT and a class C, because you must use stabilizers with a TT. IMHO, I would rather have a TT than a class C when it comes to stabilizing and leveling. A MH with hydraulic jacks of course is by far the best arrangement.
Alan and Marilyn; plus the kids: Daniel, Anna, Rebekah, Leah and Moriah
2004 Sunseeker LE 2900, Chevy chassis
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mikebNJ
Eatontown, NJ USA
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Joined: 08/11/2004
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When I first got my Class C, I was very interested in getting Jacks. I have found it is usually easy to level, a board or 2 often does it. Most campgrounds we have stayed at have gravel or paved sites that are not too far out of level.
I will save my 3k for something else!
Mike
2005 Coachmen Leprechaun 314ss
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