There a lot to look at.Service records,underneath for rust. Was It keep Inside or out In the weather?How many miles on It.You must drive It to see how It handles.Make sure everything works.Look for LEAKS all over under front bed over cab.Get some help looking It over also.Have a State Inspection done also.
Big Redneck 2004 dodge dually diesel quad cab Fleetwood 1975 truck camper, 15 foot prower camper 1995 Dodge diesel Scotty Class C Motorhome and 2dogs Murphy & Goofy
There are hundreds of previous threads on this with lots of good advice. Here are my recommendations: Don't buy too old or too small, make sure everything works and if it doesn't, get estimates on how much it will cost to fix or replace. If there has been water leakage around the roof, repairs can be very time consuming and very expensive. Engine, cooling system, transmission, should be checked by a professional truck mechanic. It is all to easy to spend over $10K on repairs and then not be able to peddle the rig for what you have in it. Older motorhome prices are based a lot on the year and brand. Expensive motorhomes like Lazy Daze sell for more money used but are harder to find than volume brands like Fleetwood.
Water leaks, past or present, leading to wood rot, esp. in the overcab bunk. May come from siding seams, windows, clearance lights, or A/C, vent, or other penetrations. Musty smell is a good hint...
Tires: Need to be less than 6 years old, _regardless_ of tread remaining; otherwise budget for replacement.
Function: Have the seller demonstrate _all_ appliances and systems for function.
The water pump should run fairly quietly and briefly when 1st switched on, then shut off until you use water; short-cycling can indicate a leak. In central and S. Fla, it's probably not winterized, so that's an unlikely excuse for not demo-ing.
RV reefers cool very slowly, so ask 'em to plug it in or run it on propane as soon as you start looking, then check at the end. you should notice both _some_ (not much, most likely) cooling, and heat coming out the outside upper reefer vent (likely on roof).
Generator: should start & smooth out quickly; with a brief (3-5 minute?) warm-up, it should carry the house A/C load just fine, with no noticable fluctuation in RPM at steady load. Some newer small Onan carbs are not rebuildable, & can run $500 to replace, so a no-start or rough-running genny is _not_ a minor thing to ignore. Most require 1/4 tank of gas to run, so it's easy for the seller to say they can't demo it; be insistent.
Driving: Check oil & coolant, and _tire pressures_ your-own-self (60-65 F, 75-80 R if load range E is a good start; take an adequate gage), then take it out for a drive among heavy, fast big trucks on a 4-lane. This'll be a fair substitute for a windy day. it should track fairly straight with minimal correction, and not white-knuckle you too bad when passed by a truck. Also do some 'rolling' or bumpy 2-lane pavement to check for excessive sway & steering /tracking oddities. Best to have test driven several, to get a feel for what they _should_ drive like, even ones out of your price range.
I'd suggest paying a good mechanic for a PPI of at least the chassis (engine, trans, brakes, etc.); maybe also an RV tech for a 'house' inspection. Most of us aren't as good at realistically judging the condition of a vehicle that we want as we'd like to think....
Someone more knowledgable than I can comment on the 'roof' issue. I looked at some C's at first, but have bought B's.
On edit, also check for 'delamination' on plastic or fiberglass sided C's. It's blistering / bubbling on the outside, often under windows and roof-edge vents, indicating water has gotten inside the wall structure. I've only read about it here, but it's apparently a pretty serious, pervasive & pricey problem on some brands, with no easy fix. Use the search function for this and the tech forum.
Jim, "I couldn't fix your brakes, so I made your horn louder."
* This post was
edited 12/28/05 11:05am by Handbasket *
'06 Tiger CX 'C Minus' on a Silverado 2500HD 4x4, 8.1 & Allison ('Loafer's Glory'); '07 Forester 2.5 ( the 'HANDBSKT'); '95 Toyota SR5 V-6 4x4 pickup, ARB locker, Bilsteins, Warn hubs & M8000, etc;
'94 968, M030 swaybars ('DOPPLER')
My Comments
* Buy from a local, good, dealer - in your case probably North Trail RV
* Make sure the dealer will warranty everything for at least 90 days, including engine, transmission, all appliances, construction, etc. If they won't, don't buy it
* Check the roof for bubbles, tears, repairs, etc.
* Get the make and model and go to NADA and check the suggested price ... good starting point for offers, etc.
* Drive it a few miles on several different types of roads to make sure it handles and drives the way you like
* If possible have the dealer let you keep it over a weekend and take it to a campground so you can try everything out - or do this after the sale and let the dealer know you are doing so and will contact them if there is any problems
* Do a front to back walk around and check in, around, over and under everything .... if you don't know what something is, ask
Good luck
Ed
Andrea
Teddy (black Shih Tzu)
Nickie (Apple head Chihuahua)
2005 31' R-Vision Trail-Lite Class C
2005 Ford Escape
$ 500 for a Onan carb ? I replaced the one on my 03 its a $k gen it was $126
Bill and Patti
Gizmo a Black face Tri-color Pembroke Welsh Corgi
Laci a Red and White PWC
06 Fleetwood Revolution LE 40E
05 Hyundai Elantra Toad
Member, Revolution Owners Group,FMCA,CAT RV Engine Owners Club
www.revolutionmotorhome@yahoogroups.com
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