Well, since this posted started many months/years ago, I looked and noticed that my fridge was not on the original list. I have a 1996 Tioga and the model number and serial number were not on the list. For some reason I checked today and it has now been added. I called Domatic and they astated they have added new model and serial numbers so if your number was not original one of the ones it may be worth the phone call to recheck. Mine is getting the kit placed on it next week! I am glad I rechecked!
WORD OF CAUTION ABOUT THE PREVIOUSLY POSTED TRANSFORMER MODIFICATION
I would not recommend that as a solution, since you are connecting 120V to a low voltage secondary. The insulation on the wiring on the transformer secondary side (6.3v-CT-6.3v) may not be sufficient for 120V. This could create an electrical hazard with all the associated risks: fire, electrocution etc.
I got a letter from Dometic in March of this year telling me about the recall and that I should call them to see if my unit was on the list. So I call and it was. I told them I had taken it in last year for a recall and asked if this was a new recall or the same one..
They said it was "brand new" and I need to take it in. So I took it back in and guess what. The dealer said "WE already fixed this one why did you bring it back in."
2003 Cougar 285 5th wheel
2001 3/4 ton Dodge cummins Hyper-tech programmed, Banks stainless 4" exhaust, transmission chip, exhaust brake and rebuilt heavy duty auto transmission and converter
Dometic is now recalling the newer models of these refrigerators. NHTSA has assigned a new Recall Number to it, but Dometic indicates in their document to NHTSA that it is essentially the same modification.
Why not install a 2 ohm, 25 watt 1% tolerance resistor in series with the AC heating element. This would reduce the voltage across the heating element and bring it down from 354 watts to about 321 watts.
These type of resistors are common and run about $4/each. One note of caution, the resistor would have to be mounted on a heat sink away from the burner assembly since it would have to dissipate about 16 watts of heat. If anybody is interested I can show you my calculations, had to go back over my electronis handbook.
2007 Chevy 2500 HD 6.0 Gas
2004 Prowler 270FQS, 27 ft GVWR 7900 lbs
Skeet25 wrote: Lee, This is what edge540 said about the same problem.
Had my kit installed two days ago. Now doesn,t work. Yes it worked fine on gas or 115 vac. prior to retrofit. I removed fount cover of the kit 5x8 sheetmetal now it works. Guess it restricts draft up the flew. If you haven,t checked yours on gas, may be you should.
....
I took my TT in yesterday got it back today. On 110VAC the freezer got cold quickly (1/2 hour) and just short of two hours later the lower refigerator section was definitely cool. I shut it off and left it to warm back up for several hours. I then switched to LP mode. Freezer gets cold quickly (under an hour) but after 3-4 hours there is no indication of any cooling in the lower fridge section (the fins are warm). Bahhh! I will leave it on LP overnight and check it in the morning.
Has anyone had a service call to their trailer if it's parked? Does Dometic cover this?
They were, but I don't think they are any more.
Quote: Also, are they not actually fixing the problem or just preventing a fire? What happens when the fridge stops due to this problem?
It's a safety recall- it is to prevent a fire. Up until a while ago, they were fixing failed refrigerators, the last I tried, they are only fixing those still under warranty.
All of that said- they seem to be changing policies fairly frequently, so....
Has anyone had a service call to their trailer if it's parked? Does Dometic cover this?
They were, but I don't think they are any more.
Quote: Also, are they not actually fixing the problem or just preventing a fire? What happens when the fridge stops due to this problem?
It's a safety recall- it is to prevent a fire. Up until a while ago, they were fixing failed refrigerators, the last I tried, they are only fixing those still under warranty.
All of that said- they seem to be changing policies fairly frequently, so....
OK, I have to say that this stinks. The company is not fixing the problem but applying a band-aid solution, apparently to prevent a possible fire but they are not taking ownership of the issue.
Doesn't anybody think that it's obvious that they should be fixing the problem, the weak weld or whatever it is which would give you a fridge which can be relied upon and then you wouldn't need the quick fix?
I'm not a "follow-the-leader" type and I don't see any purpose in hauling my unit for an RV "repair" when the next day, my fridge could fail for the very reason that it was brought in for the recall.
It's obvious they don't care if your fridge fails. They are only looking after their own hides and liability issues. I suppose this makes a good argument for extended warranties since we are dealing with a "known" defect which they won't address otherwise.
I would be interested in knowing what the failure rate is and why there were two series of recalls? Did they just divide it up and put a time lag on it to spread out the onslaught of people getting this done?
Personally, I say let the thing burn if it catches fire. Most newer trailers are written on replacement cost so you get a new trailer out of the deal. The insurance company would go after Dometic to recoup their funds once it's proven that the fridge caused the problem.
Unfortunately, the customer is the pawn in this "game" and it seem that this "recall" is really for the benefit of Dometic, not the customer. Obviously, the costs are considered by them to be too high to do a proper fix on all these fridges so the they take a short-cut at the customer's expense.
Offline
