Unless I'm mistaken, there's quite a difference between the SRW and DRW, at least as far as the rear end is concerned, a beefier axle being one of them. A lot more than just tires and springs.
If everyone is claiming that the 3/4 and 1 ton are virtually the same, I can chime in. I've towed with a SRW 1 ton (or 3/4 ton, whatever you want to call it) and a DRW and can say in ALL honesty, it is a much better, comfortable, relaxing drive. We do 20 hour round trips over a weekend quite often and I no longer dread them, I look forward to them. I have enough stress in my life. I don't need more when I'm supposed to be relaxing.
But, each to there own. If your comfortable pulling that much weight with a 3/4 ton truck, who am I to say differently. One thing you didn't mention is what Raptor you are looking at. My pin is close to 4000lbs loaded. On my SRW that put me 1600lbs over before my family and hitch were in the truck. No wonder the truck felt uneasy.
When we traded our WW 22FB for our Raptor 3319 I had a 03 Dodge CTD 4x4 stock, It pulled and stopped our Raptor just fine, keep in mind this unit is the lighter of Raptor 5er models. I traded up for a 07 Dodge CTD 4x4 5.9 Dually as I found a great deal. Pulling the raptor now with the same ease as before but to me having the dually gives me piece of mind when fully loaded. As far as braking, I find that I fine tune the brake controller with each use as the contents/ weight varies as also the weather conditions. This is my second dually, first one 86 Ford crew, and never had a problem driving , parking and they were/are both every day drivers, you just need to use commen sense and you might have to walk alittle further when parking. By the way both Dodges were stock.
I have a small Raptor (RP 299, 30ft) that I pull with a 02 Dodge 2500 long bed 4x4 that has the CTD with the Edge chip/controller, gauge package, ATS 4 inch exhaust, cold air intake kit, airbags, Rancho 9000, 6-speed manual, camper/heavy duty tow option. Im a bit over 14K fully loaded and I don't even know the trailer is back their until I get into the mountains and even then I'm pulling the grapevine in 4th gear with 900 F turbo temp and 12-15lbs of boost max. With my set up, I would have no benefit going to a 1 ton or even a ton and a half. The engine would be no stronger and with my bags, shocks, over load springs, heavy duty tow package, my truck is more than adequate for this weight. Let the flames begin!!!
What has to be remembered is there's a lot more to a truck and it's towing capabilities than the drivetrain. Yup, you've done some suspension mods but what about the brakes, tires, axles, diffs and frame for that matter? Keep in mind that a LOT has changed in 5 years.
Good point gouldc. However, if you get a chance, take a look at the undercarriage of a 02 (last year of the older body style) dodge 2500 CTD 4x4 and compare that with any other 1 ton you see DRW or SRW. Absolutely the same undercarriage (axles, breaks, etc) as a 1 ton Dodge and I would bet money that it would be very similar to the chevy and ford 1 ton's. The break issue is easily modified. You are correct in your point regarding these issues. My point however is simply this; if you have a modern 3/4 ton diesel truck, that is a few yrs old, you can easily mod the truck to be just as capable as a 1 ton without having to go buy a 50K truck. In other words, don't fall into the marketing trap that just because you see "3500" on the side of the fender or tail gate that you have something greatly different in capability than a 3/4. Notice I said greatly. Notice that I also am using in my example a truck you already have. Of course I'm not suggesting that buying a new 2500 and paying for the modifications will get you a 1 ton cheaper than just buying a new 1 ton.
I will admit that I'm not up to speed with the older vehicles. I'll also admit I've never seen a 3/4 ton with a frame split in two from pulling too much weight. I guess the bottom line is use what you are comfortable with. If an MDT to pull your tent trailer makes you comfortable go for it and on the flip side, if you're comfortable pulling a TH with a pinto giver. I just hope the realization that one's chosen truck is inadequate doesn't come to light in a panic situation.
The big difference with your situation is you knew of the areas that needed to be addressed and did so. I'm sure there are others that would leave it completely stock.
BTW wyattgp, I'd love to see your truck. Sounds like a beast. If there's one thing I can't stand about latest generation diesels it's that mods are a no-no.
Of all the replies here, there are only a couple of people that has related to having and Exhaust brake. There are alot of different models out there for all the diesels and this has helped me on my 3/4 ton for stopping..
I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 HO 4x4 Shortbed.
I have disc all around and the front is slotted with carbon kevlar pads. there is also another device that aids in stopping power called brake smart.
www.brakesmart.com
I have the 3612 Raptor and I also tow a 2nd utility trailer with a Yamaha Rhino behind it. I have 19.5" F rated commercial tires and forged aluminum Rims. I have a helper spring from roadmaster, and I have 400 rwhp on my cummins 5.9... I also have the Jacobs E-brake which helps stop this beast
Steer is 4500#
Drive is 6400# (tires are rated for 4080# each at 95 psi)
Trailer is at 13,400
and utility is 2400
Total 26,700# !!
New addition is the new pinbox I did yesterday.. see it here
I too pull a heavy trailer w/ a 2500 CTD Quadcab Dodge. While not a Raptor, it's got 3 axles, is 39'10" long, 13'4" tall at the A/C's and loaded weighs about 17,000 lbs.
I made several changes to the truck to make it safe to do this: Air Bags, PRXB Exhaust brake, 19.5" "G"s, 5,000 lb rated wheels, Bilstein Shocks, upgraded brake pads, traction bars, 75-140 synthetic gear lube in rear axle among others. Anyway, the truck handles the trailer with aplomb. No troubles at all, unless you count the clutch wanting to slip a bit if I get too heavy in the throttle below 2,000 rpms at low altitude. At higher rpm's, or higher altitudes, no problem at all.
Out on the open road it's just set the cruise and enjoy the ride. It could hardly be any more stress free. In traffic, it's just like any other big rig (I normally drive an 18 wheeler w/ 53' trailer) and requires its' space. It doesn't accelerate, brake, turn or ride like a car and I don't expect it to. It does all those things like a truck, though, and not an overloaded one either. It's licensed for the weight I haul with it as well.
The point I'm trying to make is that a stock 2500 SRW won't do the work of a stock 3500 DRW. But 2500's can be engineered to do far more work than their door stickers indicate w/o overloading anything. The principal componentry, (aside from the obvious 2 tires/wheels and a single overload leaf) is identical between the two series anyway. The other items can be upgraded with aftermarket parts to make the 2500 series trucks perform in many ways even better than a stock dually. I know, it still doesn't change the door sticker. But, the door sticker doesn't do anything anyway -- it just sticks there, stuck you might say.
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