ohioviper wrote: I can not imagine how bad that TT is going to push that Liberty in an emergancy stop situation. Its not a matter of if something will happen its a matter of when.
So by your reasoning a 15,000 lbs Freightliner Century will get pushed really bad by the 90,000 lbs B-train that it's pulling?
Should all semis be considered unsafe for towing and banned simply because the tow vehicles are so small compared to the trailers? The Liberty towing that trailer has a much better power to weight, as well as tow vehicle to trailer weight ratio, than most semi tractors.
Towing safely is about the proper setup. If your trailer has a properly setup brake controller, why would it push you in an emergency?
You could argue the case of trailer brake fade, but then again, what about an 80,000 lbs semi fading its brakes? Which btw, is much easier to do than a travel trailer. It's all about setup and driving techniques.
Interesting point, you made!
There's been a couple times where my 27' Komfort trailer has jerked my head back with a real snap, when I had accidently set the TT brake controller too strong.
So if you have a small TV and a quite long or bigger TT, but the TT brakes are in good condition, your TV shouldn't be determining the stopping distance of the TT, as much as the TT's own brakes should.
Have I got that correct?
Regards, Eightballsidepocket
2005 Dodge Ram 2500 SLT 4x2 Quad Cab, Cummins, 48RE Tranny, Lg Bed, Line-X Spray-on Bed Liner.
06 T25BS Komfort Trailblazer TT
"If you can't say it in person, it isn't worth saying while hiding behind an anonymous P.C.!"
My first rig was a 3/4 ton 1970 regular (only option then) cab Ford pickup with non power steering and breaks. I bought a 22' trailer which I had set up on the welded-on step bumper, and set the trailer brakes to actually assist the truck breaks. I prefered the steering and breaking with that rig over driving the truck empty!
Dan
Dan
2002 Trail Lite 211S; 8.1 Liter Chevy,
2007 Tundra Double Cab 4X4 - Hot Rod,
2005 30RLS Outback Sydney Edition,
2007 Jeep Compass
For my second post on this topic I'd like to again thank the OP for relating his experience and aspirations. I understand, as a car guy, the desire to "widen the performance envelope" provided by the factory (but as I've gotten older, the desire is fading).
Had there been a nice used half-ton diesel for me to buy, I would not have hesitated to go that route over a 3/4-ton truck (assuming the rear axle was rated for the load I needed). I, too, wanted all-around fuel mileage. The DODGE CTD is doing that. I'm grossing just under 16,000-lbs (the truck weighs just slightly more than the trailer) and my 63-mph-mpg is 13 secondary roads and 15 Interstate. 22+ solo at 66 mph, and 19-20 for the town driving I do (30-mile commute, then the stop-n-go).
I think the problem that would bother me the most with that rig is in having to come to a fast stop, with the possibility of a quick move to the shoulder or the other lane; having come over a rise to face traffic stopped for an accident. This is the reason I've kept a CB after getting out of big trucks as I often (but not always) have some advance knowledge. I use mine with a single earphone. My attitude is that there is not a less-capable rig than an RV, thus the need to be slow and quickly prone to slowing more.
I'd also make double sure of proper TT axle alignment, wheel bearing adjustment and tire balance. I would not assume "good" due to "new". Same with making an amperage check of each trailer brake. (And, of course, the best possible brake controller).
I noticed the above weighs (I did five one afternoon, tried not to hold up any drivers, but, hey, my time is money too), and didn't notice a tandem axle "split". That is, the weight carried on each axle of the tandem to point out any further trailer balance issues. My front/rear split is over 400# (partially due to floorplan).
I still have some work on my hitch rigging (H-A off of stock 12m# receiver) as hitch height is not ideal, nor is axle split weight. I'm close, but my rig is considerably different (I DO have room for error, by comparison).
As to trans cooling, MOPAR always added the cooler downstream of the rad cooler. This is what I've done on my autos over the years. Of course, a "stacked-plate" cooler is preferred (EARLS are sweet; B&M is what I can afford) as well as an auxiliary filter (RACOR, here; MAGNEFINE is what I have also used). Fluid analysis is always a good idea. DONALDSON/AMSOIL Ea air filters and oil filters.
Engine power is nice, but brakes and manueverabilty count for more. I'd be moving pretty slowly in that rig (55 mph max on an open road), so maybe some daylight running lamps front/rear would be a good addition.
Good luck.
* This post was
edited 10/15/07 11:09pm by '68Monaco440HP *
Your Jeep Liberty would be great touring around once your camping and for the daily use. I would find it very hard to pack as light as your trailer seems to be.
Your trailer packed that light towed behind most newer V8/V6 Half Tons and even possibly the diesel 3/4 tons. The very soft throttle foot needed to follow you would almost if not, get similar fuel mileage towing at the same speeds you are towing at,having to back of of the throttle climbing hills and letting the speed drop to as much as you are experiencing.
But it still is an interesting combination and again amazing you can pack and camp that light?
2005 2500 Avalanche
2004 30' Terry Quantum 290FLS
Equal-i-zer,Prodigy
Calgary Alberta
I'm sorry but any of you that think this is a safe setup need your heads examined. Dont compare a semi truck pulling a trailer to this. I dont want to be in front of a semi and trailer in an emegancy situation either because we all know them things cant stop either.
The trailer brakes will work to stop the TT and the TV brakes will work to stop the TV. But I promise you a heavier longer TV will do a better job of bringing that TT to a stop. Can you say jacknife.
2006 Dodge RAM 2500 Cummins QC 4X4 Big Horn
2008 R-Vision Trail sport 24BH
2008 Dodge Avenger RT wifes ride.
ohioviper wrote: I'm sorry but any of you that think this is a safe setup need your heads examined. Dont compare a semi truck pulling a trailer to this. I dont want to be in front of a semi and trailer in an emegancy situation either because we all know them things cant stop either.
The trailer brakes will work to stop the TT and the TV brakes will work to stop the TV. But I promise you a heavier longer TV will do a better job of bringing that TT to a stop. Can you say jacknife.
i think you need to examine your facts, not our heads. ive watched this thread from the beginning and am pleased to see there are more people that know what they are talking about on this site than i originally thought. i would have no problem driving this rig in question, he has done his homework and appears satisfied. i see a 4500# truck towing a 5000# trailer, using "the best" hitch available........whats the problem? comparing this rig to a semi is perfectly acceptable, i would bet money that rig would out handle/stop MUCH better than an 18 wheeler. are you saying that all the big rigs running up and down the road 24 hours a day are unsafe? just because you/anyone else does not have the experience/confidence to tow with that rig hardly makes if unsafe. playing the "safety" card only further shows your lack of experience.
i see youre close to understanding the brake issue though. ive had numerous discussions about braking ability as several years ago i "upgraded" from a 02 chevy trailblazer to a 04 chevy 2500hd D/A pulling my 6000# TT. the brake pedal on the 2500hd was a marshmallow compared to the trailblazer, so i decided to research my "butt meter" findings. according to motor trend the brakes on the trailblazer would stop THIRTY (iirc) feet quicker from 60 mph than the 2500hd........now hook the same trailer behind them, guess which combo stops quicker/handles better? more or less grade school physics here, more weight takes longer to stop, period. while most people would "feel" safer in the big manly 2500hd, technically the facts would say otherwise. im not saying the 2500hd is unsafe, just not as capable with that trailer. it has its place though, the trailblazer couldnt pull the occasional 18,000# that i need it to.
yes i can say "jackknife", but i think you need to learn to define it.
ohioviper wrote: I'm sorry but any of you that think this is a safe setup need your heads examined. Dont compare a semi truck pulling a trailer to this. I dont want to be in front of a semi and trailer in an emegancy situation either because we all know them things cant stop either.
The trailer brakes will work to stop the TT and the TV brakes will work to stop the TV. But I promise you a heavier longer TV will do a better job of bringing that TT to a stop. Can you say jacknife.
i think you need to examine your facts, not our heads. ive watched this thread from the beginning and am pleased to see there are more people that know what they are talking about on this site than i originally thought. i would have no problem driving this rig in question, he has done his homework and appears satisfied. i see a 4500# truck towing a 5000# trailer, using "the best" hitch available........whats the problem? comparing this rig to a semi is perfectly acceptable, i would bet money that rig would out handle/stop MUCH better than an 18 wheeler. are you saying that all the big rigs running up and down the road 24 hours a day are unsafe? just because you/anyone else does not have the experience/confidence to tow with that rig hardly makes if unsafe. playing the "safety" card only further shows your lack of experience.
i see youre close to understanding the brake issue though. ive had numerous discussions about braking ability as several years ago i "upgraded" from a 02 chevy trailblazer to a 04 chevy 2500hd D/A pulling my 6000# TT. the brake pedal on the 2500hd was a marshmallow compared to the trailblazer, so i decided to research my "butt meter" findings. according to motor trend the brakes on the trailblazer would stop THIRTY (iirc) feet quicker from 60 mph than the 2500hd........now hook the same trailer behind them, guess which combo stops quicker/handles better? more or less grade school physics here, more weight takes longer to stop, period. while most people would "feel" safer in the big manly 2500hd, technically the facts would say otherwise. im not saying the 2500hd is unsafe, just not as capable with that trailer. it has its place though, the trailblazer couldnt pull the occasional 18,000# that i need it to.
yes i can say "jackknife", but i think you need to learn to define it.
I to have posted my thoughts as I have been following this thread. Therefore read my comments to understand my thoughts.
But I do have a question......and I apologize up front if it was posted and missed it. Mirrors? What set up are we using for this project to safely see what is coming up from behind you and to allow you tosafely merge to the left or right lane?
Sir Buffalo!
2006 Zinger by Crossroads 27BHS
2007 Toyota Tundra Double Cab 5.7
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