Back on labor day we had issues regarding our air conditioner popping the converter box. We ended up staying in a cabin so our weekend would not be for nothing. But now it's cooling off and it's time to camp again. We have not checked out the problem yet, mostly because we don't know where to start.
The male end of the cord was replaced recently, and when the circuits pop, the fan does run. Box is getting hot and the end of the cord with the male side. I have a voltmeter but don't know how to use it. The air works for 15=/- minutes than pops off.
Can anyone walk me through the volt meter, or I can call that person if they can tell me where to start.
Pu is open and ready to be fixed, but I really want to see if it is something I can fix first before I send it to a dealership.
Thanks for you help.
Mary
Update since last night friend of mine took out the whole converter, some wires were not capped, so he capped them. Air and lights stayed on for at least an hour and then the air circut popped. We have the rigged hooked to a 20amp in the house, just the 20amp air conditioner popped, we are lost for words, Should I purchase new circuits for the converter? Only the air is popping.
Thanks
[red][/red][red]Terry:D Mary:B, Chris:C and Nick:p, Indy and Daytona
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You are a bit confused on your terms. I think you mean that the circuit breaker for the air conditioner is popping. That has nothing to do with the converter, which is the box that converts AC to DC.
Running an air conditioner on a 20 amp circuit can be marginal, especially if there are other loads on. Your problem might simply be overloading the breaker. If you can, try it on a 30 amp circuit.
First off are you using an extension cord to the rig? Check the voltage at the outlet in the house 115 to 128 normal and at an outlet in the rig. You should have between 115 to 128 volts in the rig. If it's below 110 your A/C will not run for long. Voltage below 108 volts will cause excessive AMP draw and heat to wiring. You need to check the AMP draw of the A/C unit when it starts and runs. If this is a regular circuit breaker for the A/C I would pull the breaker and check the wires for any signs of heat damage and at the A/C for the same and tight connections. If the breaker has tripped a few times than I'd replace the breaker. A voltmeter will not help to do an AMP check but it will help to see how much of a voltage drop you have when the A/C starts and runs. Plug meter in an outlet check voltage 115 to 128 is normal with nothing on then turn on A/C voltage will drop for a second then come back up. If voltage does not come back up or is below 108 volts have A/C checked by a shop.
If A/C runs and voltage is above 108 watch the voltage as the unit runs. If the voltage starts to drop below the 108 as it runs to the shop.
If it runs till the compressor cycles on then off and trips the breaker or voltage drops below 108 and does not come back up on start to the shop.
Just remember if voltage is below 108 volts at anytime other than for a second at A/C start you will have problems.
On some rigs the converter is part of the electrical distribution box, so when he says "Converter box" he may be speaking of the breaker box. however if the breaker for the AC trips, I'd not expect the fan to run, unless he's talking of the converter's fan. I too am very confused by his post.
OP: Just what is "popping off" pictures please if you can find no better way to explain it.
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
Quote:
Should I purchase new circuits for the converter?
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Well, thats a thought,.......but I really think I would try something else first
Rich
' 98 Flair, 454, Onan Microlite 4k, Intel PD 9155 w/ wizard, Sta-power 1500 watt Inv, 2 6v batts, ammeters, Oly Catalytic Heat, hauling 2 Bent Bikes and sometimes towing a Tracker F&S boat.
MI Director posted a very method to find out where the problem is, but I would add, or clarify, one item: The voltage tests should be performed when the rig is connected to a good source of shore power with a cord of adequate capacity, as he said an extension cord ain't it. Also make sure all other big load AC circuits are off, such as the battery charger.
Well, in our Pop up we only have one source of power, and I believe that the box is called a converter? Maybe an inverter, (I am also female posting this topic) that might help in the matter. The box's circuit breakers and 10 amps and 20 amps, went to CW yesterday and the don't carry 10/20 breakers, and when we took out the box from PU, we could not find how to get the breaker. The box was welded around it, so were stumped. CW want to charge $109 per labor hour to track down the problem, but an new converter would cost $210. We purchased new 30 cord ends for the plug. We are wondering if the main cord is fried. The PU is 9 years old, just don't know where to turn and DH is not a an electricial person. So.. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!
Like Mel said, post the make and model or if you can't find it like I couldn't at first, call bestconverter.com and within 5 minutes you will know what you have and have at least 3 options and two guarantees. One for two years and another that they will take your call.
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I think your problem stems from plugging your PU into a 20 amp circuit and possibly low voltage. As stated above, air conditioners are marginal without the amperage needed to run. If ANYTHING else is on that circuit, it will blow or "pop" the breaker. The breaker you need sounds like a twin, but 10 amps?/20 amp is not normally used. I haven't ever seen one. It is probably 15/20. The heat build up in the cord end and anywhere else is a big WARNING. Many PUs are 20 amp rather than 30. Just putting a new plug on will not solve your problem. Please be careful. Electricity is nothing to play with. Perhaps there's an electrician in your area who can take a look? VK