Lupo1962
La Marque, TX
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Joined: 12/23/2004
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I have a suburban gas/electric water heater. It works in the propane mode, but does not work in the electric mode. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I might begin to troubleshoot this problem. Thanks for any recommendations.
Lupo
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RVSnowbird
OR-NV-AZ-OR
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moved from Forum Technical Support to the Tech Issues forum
Lupo1962, please check your Private Messages for an explanation of this move.
RVSnowbird
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Fishinghat
Western Washington, USA
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I assume you've checked the 120 volt power supply, and for a tripped circuit breaker at the panel. At the back of the tank you'll see a little red button that is also an overheat switch. Press it in to reset it. If that doesn't do it, clean all of the electrical connections on the outside part of the tank. And, finally, remove and clean the two sensors behind the foam tape, also on the outside part of the tank. JMHO
Holiday Rambler Navigator DP, Mustang Convertible, and Honda VT1100C Shadow.
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wa8yxm
Wherever I happen to park
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Possible problems and how to test
1: Not getting AC, IF there is a plug and outlet in the fridge compartment pull plug and sub a trouble light, if light works well, then you got AC
NOTE: this may be due to nothing more than a tripped breaker
Blown ac fuse on control board (inspect)
Burned out heat element.
In this case the display will indicate the switch to AC but no cooling will happen.
Locate the heat element and using a multi-meter measure voltage at the element, should be there (120vac) disconnect power, then disconnect heat element and measure resistance, should be very very little
Also check resistance from each terminal to the metal flu Should be very high (As in the meter will indicate over limit, or indicate nothing is connected)
Control board problem...
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
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jimnbubba
Mesa AZ
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If your heater element had power to it with no water in the tank it will burn out almost instantly.
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deaop01
Mansfield, Ohio
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You may know this but my heater will not work if I have the switch to microwave. It is either water heater or mocrowave. Switch is under sink behind door.
Just checking. Good luck
Ron
Betty and Ron
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javaseuf
Southern Cal
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The AC function of a water heater does NOT use the board to operate.
The board is strictly for 12 volt/propane operation.
I would guess the element is burned-out. You can get one that will work at Lowes or Home Depot.
Steve
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javaseuf
Southern Cal
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John, we are dealing with a water heater. The info you posted is correct if we were dealing with a refrigerator.
Info for the OP...........
There is no fuse for the AC side of the water heater. It is protected by a circuit breaker.
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Mike_5667
Southern Ohio
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Hi Lupo1962,
I have a Suburban 10 gallon water heater in a 1999 Cardinal fifth wheel and I recently replaced the heating element. Here is what I found in trying to diagnose the original problem of not heating on electric.
1. Of course the water heater circuit breaker on your circuit breaker panel has to be on.
2. The small rocker switch on the outside of the heater turns 110v power on and off to the heating element. The electric heating element is independent of the inside switch that activates the LP gas system.
3. There are two reset buttons behind the rubber cover. They should be just under the insulation. One is for the regular temperature reset and one is for the high temperature reset.
4. The heating element in my water heater is 1600 watts which pulls about 11 amps. If you have a volt/ohm meter and are comfortable using it you should be able to do some testing.
5. You should see a drop in your camper’s voltage when the electric element kicks in.
6. Again if you feel comfortable with electricity, you should see nominal 110 to 120 volts at the head of the heating element. You can turn the outside rocker switch on and off and observe the voltage. However even a bad element will show 110 to 120 volts. You need to either check current (amps) flow with a meter or check for a voltage drop in the coach when the power is switched on and off.
I hope this helps.
Mike
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javaseuf
Southern Cal
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Mike_5667 wrote:Hi Lupo1962,
I have a Suburban 10 gallon water heater in a 1999 Cardinal fifth wheel and I recently replaced the heating element. Here is what I found in trying to diagnose the original problem of not heating on electric.
1. Of course the water heater circuit breaker on your circuit breaker panel has to be on.
2. The small rocker switch on the outside of the heater turns 110v power on and off to the heating element. The electric heating element is independent of the inside switch that activates the LP gas system.
3. There are two reset buttons behind the rubber cover. They should be just under the insulation. One is for the regular temperature reset and one is for the high temperature reset.
4. The heating element in my water heater is 1600 watts which pulls about 11 amps. If you have a volt/ohm meter and are comfortable using it you should be able to do some testing.
5. You should see a drop in your camper’s voltage when the electric element kicks in.
6. Again if you feel comfortable with electricity, you should see nominal 110 to 120 volts at the head of the heating element. You can turn the outside rocker switch on and off and observe the voltage. However even a bad element will show 110 to 120 volts. You need to either check current (amps) flow with a meter or check for a voltage drop in the coach when the power is switched on and off.
I hope this helps.
Mike
Mike,
To be more precise, the two re-setable Klixon discs you mention in #3 are BOTH high-limit switches, one for the 12-volt side and one for the 110 volt side.
The regular thermostat doesn't have a reset feature or the water heater because it has to automatically "reset" (close) or the water heater wouldn't cycle back on once the reset (if it had one) tripped without you going out and manually reseting it.
If the water heater didn't have the 110 volt option, there would only be one manually resetable limit switch.
HERE is a link to the schematic showing only the limit switches having a manual reset.
* This post was
edited 10/23/07 03:23pm by javaseuf *
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