At 100"s that's wide, most TH's have an interior width of 98" and 102" total width outside, which I think is the legal width limit for hiways. Not much room left for an interior type hauler, some of those double decker types might work. They look to be pretty wide, or a spec built open type trailer.
How wide is the door opening of your trailer now, not between the cables but the actual door? will the front sand tires fit in the opening? I think no matter what you will have to remove the rear sand tires to get inside any trailer so maybe you could do a few mods to your trailer and make it work for you.
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The door opening is a hair under 90". I've shimmied the cables to get 87" between them. I could move the connectors on the door to get a little more, or, take the cables off altogether and muscle the door open and closed. Is that what you're thinking? With the sand tires on the front (90"), if I removed the cables, I could put the skinnies on the back (80") and back the car in until the front tires were in but stop before they hit the wheel wells. That way I would only be having to swap 1 set, the rear sand tires, to move it in and out of the trailer and I wouldn't need to use the ramps.
Even with a Toy Hauler I'd still be swapping a set of tires to put it in and out of the trailer so this is looking like the best play so far. THANKS!!!!
NOW..... What can you tell me about removing the cables from the rear door/ramp?
The springs on top the door that pull the cables has WARNINGs all over it so I don't want to unleash a monster or decapitate anyone. What would be ideal would be to set it up so that I could connect and disconnect the cables to load the car, but I have a feeling the extreme tension involved would prevent this and I'll end up taking the cables off and leaving them off. Even for that I might need to go to the local garage door guy for assistance. I've seen trailers of a different manufacturer that have only 1 cable on 1 side, but I can't imagine being able to just disconnect one of mine as it's designed for 2 cables.
dunedancers wrote: NOW..... What can you tell me about removing the cables from the rear door/ramp?
The springs on top the door that pull the cables has WARNINGs all over it so I don't want to unleash a monster or decapitate anyone. What would be ideal would be to set it up so that I could connect and disconnect the cables to load the car, but I have a feeling the extreme tension involved would prevent this and I'll end up taking the cables off and leaving them off. Even for that I might need to go to the local garage door guy for assistance. I've seen trailers of a different manufacturer that have only 1 cable on 1 side, but I can't imagine being able to just disconnect one of mine as it's designed for 2 cables.
Input?
I can tell you to be VERY careful, if the cable takes off it will remove whatever is in the way, Your head or arm mayhaps.... I have seen a vicegrip clamped on the cable to prevent it from retracting and then a pipe in the drum as a extra measre. I had mine unhooked on the KZ like that but it is a PIA...
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dunedancers wrote: I've seen trailers of a different manufacturer that have only 1 cable on 1 side, but I can't imagine being able to just disconnect one of mine as it's designed for 2 cables.
Input?
A buddy of mone worked at Carson trailer and helped me design and build my T/H. Only one cable is standard. The second cable is added as part of the package that puts diamond plate on the floor of the ramp door. More weight means you need the second cable.
If you have a wood floor, one cable may be fine. If you have the diamond plate, then you need the second cable.
Good Luck.
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dunedancers wrote: The door opening is a hair under 90". I've shimmied the cables to get 87" between them. I could move the connectors on the door to get a little more, or, take the cables off altogether and muscle the door open and closed. Is that what you're thinking? With the sand tires on the front (90"), if I removed the cables, I could put the skinnies on the back (80") and back the car in until the front tires were in but stop before they hit the wheel wells That way I would only be having to swap 1 set, the rear sand tires, to move it in and out of the trailer and I wouldn't need to use the ramps.
Even with a Toy Hauler I'd still be swapping a set of tires to put it in and out of the trailer so this is looking like the best play so far. THANKS!!!!
You could have some permanent ramps made and reinforce the wheel wells. Not sure about the cables but im sure there is some way to move them wide enough to drive past but still close the door. maybe some sort of slide that can move outwards to pull the car on and off then slide in to close the door.
I'm concluding that no matter what, I'm going I can't drive onto any enclosed trailer or toy hauler with the paddles on the back taking up 100" of width, so I'll be swapping those everytime I pull the car in or out if I'm using rear paddles which is 99% of the time.
The goal then, it seems, is to find a way to leave the front sand tires/razors on ALL the time. Since they take up 90", if I want to drive in forward and back out, I'd have to do as you say and design a ramp system. Since the car is longer than back door to front of wheel wells, I'd have to extend the wheel wells with something to drive the front tires on or else I'd have to back out up over the wheel wells. That doesn't sound promising.
I think backing the car in and driving the car out is the answer. With the razors on the front, I'd have to stop before they hit the wheel wells and likely I'd want to do that anyway to preserve the space in the front of the trailer for tools, quad, dirt bike, etc. The rear tires have to be swapped so I might as well put the skinnys on so I can pull through the wheel well with no ramp.
The only problem I see is that I have 90" door hole to pull 90" worth of front tires through. Hopefully I can finesse that without grinding a door or some weird thing.
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