bluedog1 wrote: Not sure what the problem is, the other posts sound logical. But isn't there a gizmo that will prevent power from coming back to the truck from the trailer, but still allow power from the truck to go to the trailer? Would that not solve the problem?
The problem is that most trucks have wires that are spliced into for all of the trailer functions. I do not believe that the "power" wire for the trailer is run directly from the battery back.
Gary, you should look into installing a battery isolator, which is basically a one way switch that will only allow the current from your truck to pass to the TH battery, and block the current from the TH to pass to your truck.
Without this switch, and when you connect the TH to your truck, the battery circuit will be the sum of both TH & TV.
I also wouldn't trust the trucks current/voltage gauges, as they are not accurate; I would meaure the voltage with a volt meter instead.
Hope this helps.
bluedog1 wrote: Not sure what the problem is, the other posts sound logical. But isn't there a gizmo that will prevent power from coming back to the truck from the trailer, but still allow power from the truck to go to the trailer? Would that not solve the problem?
Interesting article. I came away with this: The voltage regulator monitors the voltage coming out of the alternator and, when it reaches a threshold of about 14.5 volts, the regulator reduces the current in the rotor to weaken the magnetic field. When the voltage drops below this threshold, the current to the rotor is increased.
And This: The voltage regulator controls the field current applied to the spinning rotor inside the alternator. When there is no current applied to the field, there is no voltage produced from the alternator. When voltage drops below 13.5 volts, the regulator will apply current to the field and the alternator will start charging. When the voltage exceeds 14.5 volts, the regulator will stop supplying voltage to the field and the alternator will stop charging. This is how voltage output from the alternator is regulated. Amperage or current is regulated by the state of charge of the battery. When the battery is weak, the electromotive force (voltage) is not strong enough to hold back the current from the alternator trying to recharge the battery. As the battery reaches a state of full charge, the electromotive force becomes strong enough to oppose the current flow from the alternator, the amperage output from the alternator will drop to close to zero, while the voltage will remain at 13.5 to 14.5. When more electrical power is used, the electromotive force will reduce and alternator amperage will increase. It is extremely important that when alternator efficiency is checked, both voltage and amperage outputs are checked. Each alternator has a rated amperage output depending on the electrical requirements of the vehicle.
This is what I was basically talking about. The regulator is sensing an incredible charge and therefore the alternator stops producing current until the bulk charge goes away. I am just surprised that more of you guys aren't experiencing this. I think it is more common than you think amung people who are using 6 volt batteries. I like the idea of an isolator as well. I was actually thinking of installing a dummy battery and connecting everything to it just for the trip, then connecting everything to the 6 volts when I get there.
2006 Vortex 277 Toyhauler, 2000 Chevy Crew Cab 454 One Ton long bed 2wheel drive.
2004 Polaris predator
2005 YFZ450 Special Edition
2006 Yamaha 700
2005 Yamaha Rhino SidexSide 4wd with locking diff.
2000 Honda XR200
2000 Honda XR250
GLM Racers wrote: Gary, you should look into installing a battery isolator, which is basically a one way switch that will only allow the current from your truck to pass to the TH battery, and block the current from the TH to pass to your truck.
Without this switch, and when you connect the TH to your truck, the battery circuit will be the sum of both TH & TV.
I also wouldn't trust the trucks current/voltage gauges, as they are not accurate; I would meaure the voltage with a volt meter instead.
Hope this helps.
Thanx GLM and BTW we are going back to the dez right after Christmas and staying until New Years. If your not doing anything you should join us.
GLM Racers wrote: Gary, you should look into installing a battery isolator, which is basically a one way switch that will only allow the current from your truck to pass to the TH battery, and block the current from the TH to pass to your truck.
Without this switch, and when you connect the TH to your truck, the battery circuit will be the sum of both TH & TV.
I also wouldn't trust the trucks current/voltage gauges, as they are not accurate; I would meaure the voltage with a volt meter instead.
Hope this helps.
Thanx GLM and BTW we are going back to the dez right after Christmas and staying until New Years. If your not doing anything you should join us.
One other option Gary is to remove the TV battery supply from your trailer connector, which will isolate both TV & TH batteries.
Most all new TV have a 7-pin, which unlike a 9-pin does not have the battery supply for probably liability reasons.
Thanks Gary. As of now we're planning for OW with the Hooligans for New Years, but it all depends on my wife's schedule.
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Hope that helps
