I'm a little curious why you wouldn't use the 12-volt setting on the fridge. With a 6 or 7-way trailer connector, you have a terminal for a +12v feed from the tow vehicle battery to the trailer battery (our previous 2 Suburbans and our present HD pickup had this wiring factory installed as part of the HD towing package). When we had popups, for years we used the 12-v. setting while traveling. We just had to remember to turn the fridge to propane or cut it off while parked for an hour or more, to avoid running the tow vehicle and trailer batteries down (you can also unplug the trailer connector). We didn't have a battery isolator installed, which would have prevented draining the tow vehicle battery if the fridge was on 12v and the trailer connector was plugged in. Although I've heard some say that the 12v setting on their fridge was practically useless because it used so much power, in untold thousands of vacation miles in Suburbans, also using the dual ACs, we never had a problem using the 12v setting, with 3 different popups.
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Murphy's Law: "Anything that CAN happen, WILL."
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campercajun wrote: I'm a little curious why you wouldn't use the 12-volt setting on the fridge. With a 6 or 7-way trailer connector, you have a terminal for a +12v feed from the tow vehicle battery to the trailer battery (our previous 2 Suburbans and our present HD pickup had this wiring factory installed as part of the HD towing package). When we had popups, for years we used the 12-v. setting while traveling. We just had to remember to turn the fridge to propane or cut it off while parked for an hour or more, to avoid running the tow vehicle and trailer batteries down (you can also unplug the trailer connector). We didn't have a battery isolator installed, which would have prevented draining the tow vehicle battery if the fridge was on 12v and the trailer connector was plugged in. Although I've heard some say that the 12v setting on their fridge was practically useless because it used so much power, in untold thousands of vacation miles in Suburbans, also using the dual ACs, we never had a problem using the 12v setting, with 3 different popups.
I just never use it on 12v. i plug in the PUP at least one day before the trip, and let the fridge get cold. The fridge is really only used for butter, mayo, etc.. stuff, that i dont want to get wet in a cooler. besides, these PUP fridges are so small, what can you really put in them? Especially when they arent installed correctly in the first place.
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I am planning on doing the same thing with my fridge vent and installing a baffle next to the cooling fins. That way the air that is pulled through the vent stack will be pulled through the cooling fins better.
I plan on using 2 or 3 computer case fans (probably 120mm but I will measure before I buy any). I read somewhere that the sleeve bearing fans need to be installed with the fan axis horizontal and ball bearing fans can be mounted with the fan axis vertical (fan horizontal), so I will be going with the ball bearing fans.
I also plan on using a fan (thermal) switch connected to the cooling fins. The local appliance place has what they call an HF110 that turns on at 110 and turns off once it drops to 90. Cost is about $12.
Here is a wiring digram that I did to keep me straight. I found that the J2 connection off the board goes to the fridge light, is always on when the fridge is on and dead when the fridge is off. By tying into that and through a relay, it should have no impact on the fridge light and the fans will be totally automatic and will stay off if the weather and natural venting keep the fins cool enough.
I may add a manual off override in the wire to the relay so I can keep the fans off if I am ever boondocking.
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#1 you always have 12 volts, no 12 volts and you have no fridge, don't matter if running on gas or electric no 12 volts = no fridge, but if you don't have shore or generator power you don't have 120 volts
#2 I bought a dozen of them for 10 bucks a couple years ago
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
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Since I installed 300W of solar on the roof, the factory 15W panel was just sitting there. So I bought 2 of the Valterra Ducted Fans that install underneath the roof vent. Works fine: Suns out, fridge cavity is warm, klik-switch closes (each fan has it's own), fan(s) come on as needed. Sun goes down, fans sleep. These fans draw a whoppin' 100ma. each, so the panel hardly knows they're even there.
These are WAY quieter than the twin fans that Norcold uses, and they move enough air that the Norcolds rarely come on.
I also plan on using a fan (thermal) switch connected to the cooling fins. The local appliance place has what they call an HF110 that turns on at 110 and turns off once it drops to 90. Cost is about $12.
Here is a wiring digram that I did to keep me straight. I found that the J2 connection off the board goes to the fridge light, is always on when the fridge is on and dead when the fridge is off. By tying into that and through a relay, it should have no impact on the fridge light and the fans will be totally automatic and will stay off if the weather and natural venting keep the fins cool enough.
Save yourself the price and hassle of wiring the relay. If the frig isn't on chances are very slim it is going to get to 110º behind the frig.
I have the same electrical setup you drew, minus the relay, 110º on, 90º off switch. The switch is always hot but the fans never run unless the frig is on, even in direct sun on 90º+ days.
I also plan on using a fan (thermal) switch connected to the cooling fins. The local appliance place has what they call an HF110 that turns on at 110 and turns off once it drops to 90. Cost is about $12.
Here is a wiring digram that I did to keep me straight. I found that the J2 connection off the board goes to the fridge light, is always on when the fridge is on and dead when the fridge is off. By tying into that and through a relay, it should have no impact on the fridge light and the fans will be totally automatic and will stay off if the weather and natural venting keep the fins cool enough.
Save yourself the price and hassle of wiring the relay. If the frig isn't on chances are very slim it is going to get to 110º behind the frig.
I have the same electrical setup you drew, minus the relay, 110º on, 90º off switch. The switch is always hot but the fans never run unless the frig is on, even in direct sun on 90º+ days.
Phils wrote: I've had the solar fans you are considering. I finally disconnected them because of the noise. It wasn't extremely loud but we found it annoying since it was constantly changing speed according to the amount of sun hitting the panel. Cloud goes over, speed changes. Clear sky again, speed changes again.
I installed one of these fans two years ago and I haven't had any problems with mine. I don't even know that it is running even when standing next to the access panel to the frig. I installed an On/Off switch to shut it off when not using the frig but I often forget to shut it off because it is so quiet.
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