Hallibagger

Picton, Ontario, Canada

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Joined: 01/09/2007

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I guess we were lucky! We did not have a RT at the time but we did have a big diesel truck and a 5th wheel, so, when we built our new double garage, we built it high with an extra section in the doors to allow me to get the truck in.
That lucky move allowed us to get the older RT190V we later acquired in, but the limiting clearance is under the door operating bracket, which is curved to allow it to close the door. I cut off the surplus material but it still made a scratch along the top of the roof vent!
I now drive in slightly off centre!
I doubt, with the cost of construction labour today, that it would be economical to modify a garage to get the additional height required.
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Davydd

Minnesota

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Joined: 11/27/2005

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booster wrote: I will be doing ours in the spring so we will be able to fit up to a 9' 3" B into it.
Currently a 10 foot finished ceiling with two 9 foot wide by 8 foot high doors on the gable end (read non load bearing).
I'm having a hard time understanding this. If you have a 10 ft. finished ceiling does that mean the track and door have to stay below? The track has to arc back to horizontal and usually needs at least 15 inches or more in height to do so above the door opening. How do you accomplish that? I would think you would need a 11 to 12 ft high finish ceiling or no obstacles.
Davydd
2005 Pleasure-Way Plateau Sprinter B Camper Van
Davydd is the Welsh spelling for David with an English twist using a v instead of an f.
See Our Pleasure-Way and my pork tenderloin sandwiches
Visited states in an RV
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booster

Minnesota

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Joined: 10/14/2007

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Davydd: They make special low headroom tracks that do a funny double curve at the opening, lay up tight to the ceiling, and move the springs to the end of the tracks. Without an opener, you can go to 9' 6" (some even claim 9' 9") on a 10' ceiling. I will try to find a link that shows how the hardware works. Companies like Wayne Dalton make a variety of mix and match sections so you can usaually get about 3" increments in door height selection.
Here is a link that lists the dimensions needed and very basic picture. I know there is better out there, but I forgot where.
http://www.wayne-dalton.com/Files/ProductManuals/Commercial_Doors/Sectional_Doors/Thermospan_200_200-20/Thermospan_200-20_Brochure.pdf
* This post was
edited 01/10/08 01:43pm by booster *
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mellowbo

Carlsbad, CA USA

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Joined: 06/30/2002

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This is a good thread Julie. I was wondering the same thing. Our Home Owners Association will not allow any RV, including Class B's, be parked in the neighborhood. VERY frustrating!!!
EJ and Carole
Dillon, Vinny and Lulu (furkids)
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sammie14

California

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Joined: 08/17/2007

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mellowbo wrote: This is a good thread Julie. I was wondering the same thing. Our Home Owners Association will not allow any RV, including Class B's, be parked in the neighborhood. VERY frustrating!!!
Several owners have worked around that by removing all decals, making the B's acceptable to HOA.
Would this work for you?
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Davydd

Minnesota

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booster,
In looking at the charts you can go low headroom manual but it still says 6" to 14-1/2" overhead clearance required. I am not sure why there is a variance unless it is determined by the door size itself. There is no explanation for the variance. Even though that is the clearance that does not mean the door, track and torsion springs will be totally above the door clearance height. Even though the torsion spring assembly is at the end of the track it will still be within the depth of the B van and could be a problem if it hangs down. If possible, you are cutting it extremely close and I can find no drawings on the internet that show a cut section through the door assembly and track. I'm disappointed in Wayne Dalton in that respect. You definitely could not install a motor operated door. The motor itself would be too deep.
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booster

Minnesota

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The range they list is the amount of headroom you can have, anywhere from 6 to 14, if that is the given range. You can be anywhere in the range and still use that set of hardware. And, yes, the door will clear the ceiling with this setup. The only thing above the door is the ceiling, no hardware, unless you use an opener. The track for the opener is why you need the extra 3" of clearance. The opener drive unit is moved back behind the rear hung springs, so it is not above the door, and the sprocket on the unit is on the top of the drive so it is at the right height.
The Wayne Dalton site used to have better pics, I will look to see if I printed any of them. Does this site allow Photobucket links?
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ARcruiser

Benton, AR USA

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Joined: 12/19/2001

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Does this site allow Photobucket links?
Yes, as long as your PhotoBucket Profile allows open access...
The album must be "public".
2 Big Cruisers, The Little Man, and Bailey / ARcruiser's Class B's (the first 8)
Rig #8 Under Construction! / Here's the Project Thread - I'm actually working on it again!
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bananadanna

Cambridge, MA

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Joined: 11/30/2005

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If we're talking about a few inches it would seem that one could forgo an automatic overhead door. A manual overhead might save a small amount although moving the drive motor further into the garage should give you most of that.
A switch to barn doors or other vertically hinged folders should gain as much as 6".
Dan
02 Freightliner Sprinter 2500 long tall home brew conversion
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booster

Minnesota

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Joined: 10/14/2007

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Here is a link to a scanned Wayne Dalton document that shows the rear spring, low headroom setup. They don't show it with a standard residential opener, but they told me they work fine with the 3" clearance, but you need the longer track to move the motor back.
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m299/turbobooster/doorscan.jpg
Finally found the right spot on the Wayne Dalton site. This page will give PDF drawings for all the different style tracks.
http://www.wayne-dalton.com/ProductManuals.asp?loc=/Files/ProductManuals/Commercial_Doors/Sectional_Doors/Track_Drawings
* This post was
edited 01/11/08 11:01am by booster *
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