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 > 2004 Roadtrek Chassis Lube

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fromday2

Issaquah, WA, USA

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Joined: 05/15/2004

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Posted: 01/11/08 10:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I take my Roadtrek to oil change shops that say their service includes a lube job. The shop today said they found zerks on the ball joints and tie rod ends. The owners manual says the drive shaft splines have a zerk, but it also says there will be fittings on the kingpins, I think they have not had kingpins for many years.

Does anyone know where the zerks are? I can't get under mine to see for my self.
Thanks,

Al

KK&R

Ashland, OR, USA

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Posted: 01/12/08 12:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sorry, I can't help, but I would sure like to know also, so I can do my own lube when I change my oil. I vaguely recall there being 13 fittings on the Chevy chassis--but, of course, I could be completely wrong.


KK&R
2004/03 Roadtrek 200 Versatile

Handbasket

Asheville, NC

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Joined: 01/17/2003

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Posted: 01/12/08 06:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

IIRC, and I may not, on my '01/'02 Chevy RT...

The 'hidden' ones are the upper ball joints (yep, no king pins on IFS; sheesh!), the spline joint at the middle of the driveshaft, and the upper on the shaft of the idler arm (recessed in the right inner side of the frame?).

The rest are pretty obvious, and in 'normal' locations. The mid-driveshaft spline joint is pretty hard to reach even with it on ramps.

I did mine at every oil change, with a manual grease gun fitted with a 12" flex hose.

Jim, "Coffee... Is the whole world shaking, or is it just me?"


'06 Tiger CX 'C Minus' on a Silverado 2500HD 4x4, 8.1 & Allison ('Loafer's Glory'); '07 Forester 2.5 ( the 'HANDBSKT'); '95 Toyota SR5 V-6 4x4 pickup, ARB locker, Bilsteins, Warn hubs & M8000, etc;
'94 968, M030 swaybars ('DOPPLER')

fromday2

Issaquah, WA, USA

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Posted: 01/12/08 06:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the information. I will have to make an extra effort to do the work myself. It is a problem for me in that the driveway is too steep to think of putting it on jacks and I do not have the overhead clearance in the garage to lift it much, somehow the 8,000 weight is also a bit intimidating when using bottle jacks and jackstands. I understand there are heavy duty ramps that should do the job but I am not anxious to do the change and lube in a public parking lot somewhere.

Al


Al

Handbasket

Asheville, NC

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Posted: 01/12/08 06:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Al, My ramps are from a big box auto parts store, but I've seen the same in a WalMart auto dep't. Silvery plastic, Rhino brand, 12,000 lb capacity (make sure it's not the 8,000 lb black ones), about $40. Mine have lasted thru five years, three small RV's, and a couple of DIY modifications . They've been one of the better investments I've made... saved me a whole bucket of bucks.

Jim, "I see the light at the end of the tunnel. I hope it's the bathroom."

Rodger

Tucson, AZ.

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Posted: 01/12/08 07:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have the ground effects, but can still get under it to change the oil and do a lube job without raising it up, except for the drive shaft, then I put the rear wheel on a ramp.


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fromday2

Issaquah, WA, USA

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Posted: 01/12/08 09:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Rodger, you have just inspired me (shamed me) to do the work in the garage. I can lift the front about 3 inches there so should be able to do it except the drive shaft. I have leveling ramps and will use them somewhere to see if I can get to the driveshaft zerk. I know they did not get them on the last oil change and possibly not on the previous 5.

Does anyone but me do oil changes according to the built-in sensor. I use Mobil 1 oil and follow the oil sensor signal, it turns out to be about 10 to 11 thousand between changes. I don't know if I am more intent on saving money or saving natural resources, or perhaps just foolish.

loving retirement

SF Bay Area

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Posted: 01/12/08 11:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Handbasket posted:

"...and the upper on the shaft of the idler arm (recessed in the right inner side of the frame?)."

Can anyone give more information about this fitting, or are there any photos available of these fittings. Is the count of 13 correct for a 2002 Express 3500?

Don

Rodger

Tucson, AZ.

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Posted: 01/13/08 12:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The one on mine that is hard to get to is on the driver side, inside the frame. Not hard to find, you will see a rubber boot with no zerk fitting, just follow it up about 8", and the fitting is inside the frame. There's one on the passenger side too, but it's easier to get to. This is for a 2002 Chevy, don't know if other years are the same.
I never counted them, there all pretty easy to see, except for the one inside the frame.

bobojay5

Eastern Kansas

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Posted: 01/13/08 11:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fromday2 wrote:

Rodger, you have just inspired me (shamed me) to do the work in the garage. I can lift the front about 3 inches there so should be able to do it except the drive shaft. I have leveling ramps and will use them somewhere to see if I can get to the driveshaft zerk. I know they did not get them on the last oil change and possibly not on the previous 5.

Does anyone but me do oil changes according to the built-in sensor. I use Mobil 1 oil and follow the oil sensor signal, it turns out to be about 10 to 11 thousand between changes. I don't know if I am more intent on saving money or saving natural resources, or perhaps just foolish.



I do changes according to the oil change minder, or 6 months whichever happens first. Do this on all 3 of our vehicles, (Chevrolet), using Amsoil XL7500 5w30 synthetic and AC oil filters.
Been doing the 6 mos. deal for about 9 years now on several vehicles, same oil. No problems.


Bob & Sharon: Retired GM & AT&T
2007/06 Chassis, Chevrolet Pleasure-Way Lexor TS
Eastern Kansas FMCA# 386853

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