If it costs more, it's got to be better...That's what I always say!
Yup, that's why I have the best wife in the world!!
DH Bill / DW Claudia / DD Jenn / DS Chris The Paps! Sophie, Abby, Brandy, Kahlie and Annie
2000 Winnebago "Minnie" 31C, Ford V-10
Purchased April Fools Day, 2008 The Pets
PapPappy wrote: If it costs more, it's got to be better...That's what I always say!
Yup, that's why I have the best wife in the world!!
I was drinking coffee when I read this. Now I have to clean the computer monitor.
I always liked to change my own oil. It really is not difficult. You have the chance to check over a lot of things when under the unit. Visual checks of the exhaust, tire wear patterns, loose bolts, things hanging down, and leaks. With the price of crude, there are not that many sales anymore. The quality of one filter versus another belongs in another topic. The local "House of Mufflers" or "Midas" run sales on oil changes, both will change my units oil for under $25.
Let's face it, changing the oil on a truck is a piece of cake. It's when you try to do those little Hondas and the like, that make you want to let somebody do it.
I mean, oil filter on the side of the block, on the rear of the block? Seriously....there wasn't any other spot to put it? Was it just plain impossible to mount it vertically?.....Anywhere?
2001 Excursion 3.73 geared V-10
2006 Coachmen Spirit of America 24TBQ
purduepete wrote: I like to fill the new filter with fresh oil before replacing it. You can't count on the kid at Wallyworld to do that!
Pete
Ditto here.
There are too many "GOOD" reasons NOT to hand "ANY" of your vehicles to someone else for a very simple oil change that can be done yourself at home or on vacation.
As I mentioned earlier, as a volunteer mechanic, I have seen too many cross-threaded drain plugs. Then the plug drips oil the rest of the vehicle's life. Or you can rethread the oil pan threads....good luck there. Or spend big money for a new oil pan. The oil change guy's solution is always doubling up on sealing washers for the drain plug....thanks for nothing pal.
Come on now, how hard can it be to put a drain plug on properly?
Apparently it is a challenge for someone who has to meet a company slogan and complete your oil change in under 10 minutes. For Pete's Sake....the oil doesn't even drain out in 10 minutes.
Did he wipe clean the engine block sealing surface? Did he oil up the new filter gasket so it seats and seals properly?
What weight oil did the guy select from that hose hanging from the ceiling? 5W-20? 5W-30? 10w-30? Did he read your owner's manual to find out?
How much oil did he really put in the crank case? You'd better check your oil, the next time you are about to start your engine.
The biggest oil change "Disaster" I've diagnosed, fortunately only on very rare occasion.....the "speedy oil guy" takes off your old oil filter, but doesn't notice the filter gasket is still stuck to the engine. He spins on the new filter over the old gasket. Now you have two gaskets. Some time later under high oil pressure conditions, that old gasket gives way and pops out of position. Your engine dumps all it's oil in under 10 seconds, while you are climbing a mountian. By the time you notice a problem, find a place to pull over, and turn off the key, your engine is toasted.
A profesional charges a whole lot more than doing it myself. I assure it's done right. Having it done by a professional is smart.....NOT!
Sorry I got a bit carried away here, but it hurts to see so many people have their investments damaged or destroyed by "10 Minute" oil guys.
Adding this note later: A professional is not a perfectionist. It is his profession. This means he has to be quick and fast to justify his employment. It shouldn't mean he does a bad job, but too often that's what happens.
It is for these reasons I NEVER allow a professional to work on my brakes. Does he clean the mating surfaces where rotors contact the hub to prevent future pulsating brakes? Does he degrease the rotors before putting on the pads? Does he suck out all old fluid from the brake fluid reservoir, then wipe out and fill with fresh fluid before he bleeds the brakes? Does he adjust the drum brakes numerous times with brake pumping action in-between the adjustments? There is so much a professional simply does not make time for.
I only take my vehicles to "Someone I trust", only if I can't figure out how to do a task myself. Then I watch him, and learn from it.
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Bought new in June 2007, Phoenix Cruiser-2350
Fits inside our garage.
Dingy towing a red Toyota MR2 Spyder
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Here's what I don't get. The last three or four oil changes have all been mucked up by Dealers, Quickie oil places, and independent shops.
All put in more oil than vehicle was supposed to have installed, or the wrong style or grade.
Changing oil is not that difficult, and these people are the professionals.
Yes I could do it, but in the summer here 125 degrees plus, it's miserable to lay on a HOT driveway, and once you set down a wrench you can't pick it up again without gloves.
And why do they sell you a LOF, ( Lube, OIL, Filter ) and NEVER EVER lube your vehicle?
After a recent LOF I crawled under the vehicle, and saw that all the zerks were untouched ( still had mud covering them. I took digital pics of the zerks, enlarged then 8"x10", marched back to the dealership, got the Service Manager, and said "show me where my vehicle was LUBED". Then I made him crawl under the vehicle and show me how they checked the differential fluid ( specifically asked for this )by not removing the plug ( mud covered the hole), and finally how were they able to check the power steering fluid and not disturb the dust on the cap...oh and you can see through the plastic that's it's low.
So now I have learned to save myself a second trip BACK to the service centers I use blue painters tape on all the lube points, inspection plugs prior to going in. I sit in the drive and go through my litany of tests right there, and make them take the vehicle back and do it all over again THE RIGHT WAY.
Vehicles are expensive, and these people could care less if the fluids are not up to par.
kendall69 wrote: And why do they sell you a LOF, ( Lube, OIL, Filter ) and NEVER EVER lube your vehicle?
After a recent LOF I crawled under the vehicle, and saw that all the zerks were untouched still had mud covering them.
If you don't yet know how I feel about those oil change places, read the 2nd thread up. But.........
In their defense, the oil lube places are supposed to add grease only If the rubber boots don't have grease in them. If they feel squishy full of grease, "Don't Add More Grease". You would over-fill them, causing the boots to ooze out excess grease. I wait until the boots are running low, then I lube them. I wait also because I try to delay adding a "Different" grease to the OEM gease already in the boots. Short of purchasing Ford or GM part number grease, you'll be blending different grease types, which is not to OEM perfection.
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