Hi all,
Just got back from the dreaded smog test and failed. HC and CO are high. The guy there as well as a mechanic waiting in line suggested the air pump or something to do with it. In the past I have been able to fix a lot of things with Seafoam. I was wondering if someone here knows if this would work in this case, or can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance.
Isn't there some stuff you buy at auto parts stores that guarantees you'll pass? Remove aircleaner element before going, make sure engine has been run at least 30 minutes on freeway before test. Do not idle waiting to be tested. Get test done when air is cool.
Just my ideas.
Chuck
Wonderful Wife
Lovely German Shepherd.
1999 Mercedes ML320 TV
2003 Wanderer 187TB Toybox (3620# UVW, 4800# loaded) Not yet camped in Hawaii, 2 Canada Provinces, & 2 Territories. I can't be lost because I don't care where this lovely road is going
I assume you did a tune-up? Before your visit with the Smog police.
When was the last time you a can or 2 of carb cleaner in the tank?
When was the carb adjusted?
I mension this on another place.
I drove a F-150 for 300,000 miles before, during, and after Cal. started playing with the somg rules to get the gas hogs off the streets.
I drove that rig for thirty years, JUST to get BACK at the smog police after they said it wasn't legal.
I was the ORIGNAL owner.
Nothing was add, modified or remove. Well 300,000 miles was added. And a coat of paint.
With the exception of Dirt, Water, Gas, filter(s), and Oil.
When it came time for my 2 yr requirement to visit the local smog police station. I would.
First Came: The tune-up. Annoying the wife.
Second Came: The (4) carb. cleaner treatment(s). TK. had 2 Tk.'s.
Third Came: The fuel system cleaner. Jeffy Lube $30. A can 104/octain.
The Place: Smog station paper in hand, be back in 2 yrs. HA! Ha! Ha! Up-your's Cal.
Any chance the carb has a 12mo 12,000 mile warranty? Is the carb even adjustable or is it sealed? Could be the float is set too high but that is a long shot. CO says the mix is too rich, HC is often something mechanical like rings, valves, plugs, wires, cap, etc. Although the two can be related somewhat. Check that the choke is fully open. I always disliked those "sealed" carburetors as they often were out of adjustment with no way to correct, then the catalyst mostly cleaned it up and no one knew how bad they were running. If it is one of those variable venturi Ford carburetors then change it out for a Holley economaster or equivalent that they sell today. Good chance a new catalytic converter would fix things, I mean cover it up and let you pass.
I have not had my smog license for 25 years now but the engines run about the same as ever.
2001 F150 SuperCrew 5.4 Lariat Offroad 4x4 Tow Package 4.10 Truetrac
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
12K SuperGlide, KGE3000Ti 2.3kw rated 2.6kw max
Frank's voltage booster, Prosine 1800 powered by 4 GC2 batteries
Sorry for missing the important stuff... It only failed the idle part. Here are the results:
HC: Max 250
Ave 57
Measured 314
CO: Max 1.50
Ave 0.70
Measured 2.06
The carb is a Holley 4180, not sure wether it is adjustable or not. I am sure it should be adjustable. It is out of warranty but considered "new" I guess.
I replaced the carb on my 78 460 and promptly failed smog. Came home and put the jets from the old one in it and passed. The jets in the rebuilt carb were much larger. It might help to remove the air filter, close the idle adjust to mimimun, and add some Slick 50 gas additive or the equilivant if you can find it. Add the additive to a tank that is close to empty. I have trade to diesel so am a bit rusty on gas.
I saw some like that. Although there is a maximum idle speed, raising the idle a few hundred rpm would often squeek by. I think it is just too rich at idle and needs about 1/4 or 1/2 turn in on the adjustment screw. The shop should be able to use the sniffer and dial it right in.
Does it ever back fire through the carb? This can rupture the power valve and leak gas internally. Although recently rebuilt, it may also have some other internal leak. If the adjustment screws do not help I would suspect these items.
HC level seems too low to be mechanical or ignition.
I have heard that if the power valve breaks gas mileage goes down to about 5MPG. Mine is right about 8 MPG. It has never backfired in my possession. I have the manuals and the exploded view of the carb but do not know what I am looking for or when to know when I am done.
VDOCAD wrote: I have heard that if the power valve breaks gas mileage goes down to about 5MPG. Mine is right about 8 MPG. It has never backfired in my possession. I have the manuals and the exploded view of the carb but do not know what I am looking for or when to know when I am done.
Air/fuel idle screws are what you are looking for since the idle circuit is the ONLY problem.
A 1/8-1/4 turn in should do the job for you.....Check out that carb for 4 corner air/fuel screws.
Raising the RPMs 150 or so is good and "RETARDING" the timing (2-4ยบ) will work well also, Just figure out where the original timing is prior to the move.....
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