dennisncherry
Pioche, NV
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Joined: 03/28/2006
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I have no hot water on electric but works on gas. I have checked breaker OK and decided to see if someone could tell me the steps to go thru checking the electric. how to check element? etc? Thanks
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SCVJeff
Santa Clarita, CA.
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Joined: 07/28/2006
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Most likely the element is open. Mine died on our second trip (was warranty). If you can get to the element terminals put a DVM across it. Mine has an access panel underneath the coach that I can get to them from.
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Roadpilot
Lakes Region of New Hampshire
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You'll have to disconnect the AC going to the Atwood and measure across the element with an ohmmeter. Should be a low resistance. If it's an open element it will read a high resistance.
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Mike_5667
Southern Ohio
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I have a Suburban 10 gallon water heater in a 1999 Cardinal fifth wheel and I recently replaced the heating element. Here is what I found in trying to diagnose the original problem of not heating on electric.
1. Of course the water heater circuit breaker on your circuit breaker panel has to be on.
2. The small rocker switch on the outside of the heater turns 110v power on and off to the heating element. The electric heating element is independent of the inside switch that activates the LP gas system.
3. The heating element in my water heater is 1600 watts which pulls about 11 amps. If you have a volt/ohm meter and are comfortable using it you should be able to do some testing.
4. Again if you feel comfortable with using your meter, you should see nominal 110 to 120 volts at the head of the heating element. You can turn the outside rocker switch on and off and observe the voltage. However even a bad element will show 110 to 120 volts. You need to either check current (amps) flow with a meter or check for a voltage drop in the coach when the power is switched on and off.
5. You might be able to lift the leads on the heating element head and check resistance. A very high resistance would indicate a burned out element. I my case, however, the element was burned out and the sheath split so the water in the tank provided enough conductivity to show a low resistance which gave me a false indication of a good element.
6. Since a good heating element when working properly pulls several amps (11 amps in my case), you should see a drop in your camper’s voltage when the electric element kicks in. You would have to connect your meter to a 110 volt outlet and turn the heating element on and off and if the element is good you should be able to see a voltage drop.
7. Having said all this, you probably have a burnt out heating element. If you can remove the element, you can check for obvious physical damage and also do an accurate resistance test with your meter. I had to go through all my testing because my heating element was stuck in the water heater very tightly and I couldn’t easily remove it. Removing a stuck heating element is information for another post.
I hope this helps.
Mike
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mikem1945
Illinois
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Fiurst question is, did it ever work, mine was not hooked up right from the factory and di that. There are 4 wires which must be hooked to it.
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dennisncherry
Pioche, NV
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Yes it did work and it started working again overnight. I turned the switch on and of and then on again and left it on last night and this AM my wife and I both took showers and it is working. This was not the breaker that I turned on and then off; rather it is the switch that allows us to shut off the electric and then use the gas???? I am going tho take the switch apart to see if I have a poor connection?? Thanks and I will let you know any new developments
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