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 > Travel Trailer Lights Flickering and Battery Power Gone

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southernrainbeau

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

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Posted: 02/12/08 05:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi....not sure if anyone remembers me but I spent a little time here when I first bought my 22 foot Mallard. I soon hit the road, ended up in Naples in September and have been here ever since, and looks like I'm going to stay for a while. Have done nothing but work and sleep for the last 4 months...LOL.

My problem:

I used the heater (gas) for the 4th time a couple of weeks ago. First few times, no problem. 4th time, the power started fading in and out....like it was trying to die. Never did though. Didn't use the heater again after that. About a week later, my lights started flickering....and the flickering slows down, speeds up or stops temporarily when another light is turned on or off. But eventually the flickering resumes.

A worker of the RV park did this:

Changed breaker box out. When unplugging the power, we discovered I did not have battery power at all. Yet in checking the battery, it is fully charged. All cables and posts to battery checked and cleaned. Still no battery power. There is not a fuse in the battery line.

He checked all my fuses and tripped my breakers.

He plugged in a seperate lamp and it did not flicker.

Night lights plugged in to the electrical outlets do not flicker.

TV is not affected.

Turning A/C, water heater off and unplugging everything makes no difference.

When the microwave is on, the flickering gets more intense,(brighter and faster) and my LP Gas Leak Detecter starts beeping with each flicker.

Also the inverter box was checked by a neighbor for any loose or corroded connections. None found.

When I started typing this, the place looked like a disco scene. Now, the flickering has stopped. But this is what it has been doing. So it's an intermittent problem.

I have a repair call in from a local Mobile Service, but I'm looking at $95 road trip right up front and $95/hour labor.

Any thoughts as to the problem? I have a really nice handy neighbor that would be able to fix the problem if he knew what to do I think.

BTW....I'm at KountryKamping RV in Naples.....anyone ever been here?

Thanks for any help, and I hope this is the right forum...:-)

Tsalla Apopka

Pine Ridge, FL

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Posted: 02/12/08 05:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The gas heater uses 12 volts for the circuitry and the fan. It sounds like yours is connected to the chassis battery and has run it down. Start your engine (Use Aux Switch if required) and after a few minutes try running the heater. If it runs it's connected to the chassis battery.

Just noticed you said TT, so no chassis battery -- in that case I don't have a clue......


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SWMO

Southwest Missouri

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Posted: 02/12/08 05:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

He plugged in a seperate lamp and it did not flicker.


In all likelihood your lights are 12V as is the heater. The flicker is most likely because you're running off the converter, with no battery to smooth out the pulses.
You probably need to verify that the DC circuit is intact.


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southernrainbeau

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

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Posted: 02/12/08 05:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi....thanks...

"You probably need to verify that the DC circuit is intact. "

Sorry....what does that mean? I don't have a clue...sorry..

Tankcar

Santee, Ca. USA

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Posted: 02/12/08 05:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi!

Is the 12v good when plug into 120?



***(12v system is from the Batteries. Most newer RV's have a inverter installed 120v to 12v which run all 12v components; ie: Re-charge the batteries when plug in to shore service. 12v system jacks, monitor panel, lighting, TV antenna, fans, detectors, wtr pump, Refer, and heater.***



Check the water level in the batterie(s).

Have you taken the batterie(s) out, and had it or them checked? ie: Auto-Parts store, Wal-Mart?

Have you service the batterie(s)? (clean the posts) checked the leads? + the grounds. This would include the inverter connections.



***Some RV have fuses or circuit braker's in the 12v feed line?***



It almost sounds like corrosion build up! The arching between the batterie(s) and the posts.

Is your inverter dying?
If the batterie(s) turns out to be good, that is where I would start next.

* This post was edited 02/13/08 08:45pm by Tankcar *

southernrainbeau

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

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Posted: 02/12/08 05:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi....the battery has been checked, and is fully charged....like it is still getting a charge. The posts were checked and cleaned but weren't bad.

"Is the 12 volt good when plugged in to "120?"

Well, how do I check this?

wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 02/12/08 07:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Most lights and the Explosive Gas detector all run on 12vdc in a motor home or trailer. So the lack of flickering on the 120 volt side means a different system is working normal.. The microwave should not affect it though. I do not know why it is affecting it (unless it is running on inverter power)

The fact you have no lights, with a fully charged battery means one of the following:

1: Battery is disconnected (STORE mode on some switches OFF or DISCONNECT on others)

2: There is a tripped breaker or blown fuse.. SOMEWHERE

Flickering lights suggests to me a problem with your converter as well

So please do the following:

1: Determine the make and model of your 12 volt converter, This is the device that converts 120vac to 12vdc, and post that information down thread.

2: If your battery disconnect is a manually operated SWITCH (It will have very heavy cables hooked to it) please cycle it, If it is a REMOTE operated switch (Often as a toggle or rocker switch with small wires, and somewher else is a solenoid or "Battery Control Center" please look at the BCC for a pair of circuit breakers, should be near the bottom, should be push button.. NOTE that they are optional (my rig has a different type of breaker mounted elsewhere)

PUSH the buttons, HARD If they click, check your lights

On your converter, look for fuses or breakers

And of course report back the results

OH, if it's a remote operated switch (like I have) Does it CLUNK when you push the USE switch, or only when you push the STORE side... Mine stopped clunking when I pushed USE. Major PITA (Pain In The Anatomy) I was able to fix it however for $0.00... Got lucky, very lucky!


Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377


southernrainbeau

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

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Posted: 02/12/08 11:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi wa8yxm

Thank you for taking the time. I will find out all of this info for you tomorrow. There is no BCC. Have never seen any buttons or swicthes. Nothing for sure that says store or disconnect.

I'm confused about 12 v and 120 volt to a point, but the flickering is happening on 120 volt. I have NO battery power. I understand all the electrical plugs are 12 volt, right? The lamp plugged in to an outlet, and my night lights do not flicker. Only the overhead lights when on 120v. But since I have no battery power, isn't it all 120 volt at this point? Yup, I'm confused.....:-(

The breakers were tripped and reset. The fuses were checked. The battery is connected.

I'll show your post to my neighbor also and maybe he will have some idea of what else to look for. Could any of this be UNDER the trailer? because there is nothing obvious around the battery.....the cables just hook up to the battery then disappear under the trailer, and the only control box anywhere inside the trailer is the inverter box.

Thanks again....I'll have some answers for you tomorrow....:-)

Beauty and Bearst

Lithia Springs, GA, USA

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Posted: 02/12/08 11:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Southernrainbeau;

By everything you have described, your converter is about to die. Yes, your lights will flicker when using he microwave because it is drawing more AC amperage away from the converter which is changing the 120 volt AC to 12 volt DC current and working extra hard because it has a problem ---- (probably resistor or heat sink related). Your outlets, microwave, and converter all run on 120V AC electricity. Your lights, furnace, etc. all run on 12V DC electricity which is produced through your converter (not inverter). The converter also is responsible for charging and maintaining the charge on your battery. If it dies, you will run strictly on battery power until your battery is dead. Your AC electricity will still be working.

I do not recommend using your neighbor unless he is qualified to do this kind of work. Also, you probably will need someone with a source for replacement parts. You said you were in Naples --- Call Lew Farber-- Master Tech RV Service. 541-490-6357 Tell him that Roger and Gary recommended you call him. He may be expensive, but he is thorough and he is safe.

Good luck...
Roger Ingalls
RBI Mobile RV Repair, LLC.


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Pineapple Kid

Kauai Hawaii

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Posted: 02/12/08 11:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Loose or corroded ground wire !


Pineapple Kid Kauai

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