Frank in CO
Centennial, CO
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Joined: 10/25/2001
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I think my motor is going bad on my Suburbabn 20k BTU furnace (won't kick the sail switch under 12.5 volts and starting to get noisy). Rather than spending $150 for a new motor and not getting enough heat (I camp in below 0F sometimes). I was thinking of going to a 35K BTU Atwood from Ebay to get quieter and enough heat to enclose the underbelly of my TT. Until I enclose it, would I have problems with the furnace being too big? My TT is a 22' KZ with a rear hard slide to 26'.
Also any issue with switching to Atwood from Suburban other than cutting the hole in the wall for the access door? Is there any difference in brands as far as reliability, etc?
Frank in CO
2000 KZ Sportsmen 2205QSS
2002 F350 4X4 Crew Cab
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tom_kat
way upstate new york/lake george area
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there not made the same way or mount the same you would be better off replaceing yours with the same brand and model but just get a larger one with more btus.larger ones also use more battery power to operate them.you may need another battery for more power.
1985 Class A Holiday Rambler Imperial 33 +1979 Class C Holiday Rambler Statesman 1000 = 24 ft
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downtheroad
Puget Sound
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Joined: 02/18/2003
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Hey Frank,
I use stuff like this to try to talk the wife into a whole new trailer...lol 
GMC Duramax/Allison (LBZ)
Komfort 277TS Our Rig Pic
Reese Dual Cam HP
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javaseuf
Southern Cal
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Joined: 03/30/2005
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If you haven't checked, it is possible that dust/dirt has lodged in the actuator arm of the sail switch and the switch now needs an extra "push" to activate. I have found this many times when servicing this brand.
Steve
2007 Springdale 291RKL
2003 F150 King Ranch
2001 Dodge Van w/Wheelchair Ramp
1991 Palomino Mustang PUP
Eureka Timberline Tent
Yamaha IF2400isc
Yamaha EF3000iSEBC
"Politically Incorrect And Proud Of It" 
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Frank in CO
Centennial, CO
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Actually replaced the sail switch just to make sure. I also checked for obstructions and even disconnected the ducts to be sure. I'm about to tear into the motor to inspect the brushes and bearing, but I just figured since I don't get enough heat anyway I may wish to upgrade and try to get a quieter unit. I just don't want to go too big and have it short cycle. Battery power is no big deal as I run my generator usually anyway unless others are near (not much company in winter) and if there is, they usually have Hondas like mine which they run. Also battery is a brand new group 27 so I could get another one now if needed.
The reason I was thinking Atwood is I was hoping for a more quiet operation and also like the door for maintenance vs. my SF-F Suburban which requires pulling the couch to get to. My furnace is under the couch with plenty of room and I intend to install new solid ducts if possible so would the differences still be too much? I have room to reroute gas and ductwork if needed and the old unit is simply screwed to the floor. I thought the Atwood would just mean cutting an outside hole for the door and routing ducts if needed, gas to the top, and electric as needed. Is there something I'm missing?
I could find a 30k or 34k btu Suburban if it would be too much of a hassle to swap. Has anyone compared noise levels of the two?
If I can fix my unit, I may sell it to recoupe some of my costs.
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geysergazer
Not here
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Joined: 12/23/2006
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RV.Net editorial policies are unacceptable to me as a Poster.
* This post was
edited 05/12/08 06:02am by geysergazer *
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Frank in CO
Centennial, CO
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Great info! Just what I was looking for. Right now I have 2 4 inch ducts and 1 2 inch duct (for the bathroom). I was planning on adding another 4 inch duct for the cabin (either in the bunk room or by the door) and one possibly two for the underbelly in the future. I may look for a 30k unit with 3 discharges may be better than a 35 but either way I think I want a unit with an access door. Also I found out that if I dischage to the underbelly it doesn't count in the calcs as there is no return air.
I figure the volume of air to heat is about 1400 cu ft. plus another 150 cu ft for the underbelly. I haven't found anything relating btus to cu ft of space.
Besides, cutting holes in stuff is always fun. I'm just special needs and need to meaure 3 times and cut once because of past experience.
* This post was
edited 02/29/08 12:34pm by Frank in CO *
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Frank in CO
Centennial, CO
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Joined: 10/25/2001
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Well I tore into the motor and it looks fine. The brushes are at least 50% remaining, maybe 75. I will double check the soot and blockage situation before I spend a few hundred on a new unit.
I found some amp draw numbers and now I'm not sure about the extra power. It looks like Atwood runs 7.6 amps for a 30k while Suburban is 6.5. (My current one is only 4.5 for the 20k unit I think) Not sure if the noise is better for Atwood to warrant the higher power draw.
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