Our seemed to float and wander a bit, when we first got it. Turned out the dealer inflated to the tires to 80psi all around. Reducing the fronts to 65psi (for our weight - others may be different) made a world of difference. Of course, once we had it aligned, Koni shocks, Henderson's track bar, etc. it was even better. I honestly don't think you'll see any difference with just a steering damper. Proper inflation, proper alignment, decent shocks - everything else is just fine-tuning.
Before spending $ on hardware, do the do the easy/cheap things to improve handling.
1. Load the MH as it would be loaded for travel and go to a scale. Have the front and rear axles weighed separately. Compare the actual load on each axle with the GAWR for that axle. Ideally, each axle should be loaded to the same percentage of the GAWR, a goal that will probably be difficult to achieve. If you find that the front axle is lightly loaded, rearrange your "stuff" to move weight forward, which will improve the loading on the front axle. This will increase the traction of the front tires and will reduce wandering in crosswinds and when trucks pass you.
2. After improving the weight distribution as much as possible, go back to the scale and get a weight for each corner. Using these weights, adjust the tire pressures per the load/inflation table from your tire manufacturer. Proper tire inflation affects the contact area of each tire with the road, which affects the traction of the tires. Proper inflation also affects the ride quality.
3. If you are still having handling problems, the next step would be to have the front end aligned, with the MH loaded for travel.
If the above do not solve the problem, some new hardware may be in order.
Do as others have said, proper inflation, and front end alignment. Save your money on all those fancy sway bars, stabilizers, and shocks and spend it on toys that you can use. As I have said many times on here IT"S A TRUCK AND IT'S SUPPOSED TO RIDE LIKE A TRUCK
2000Coachman with super slide
1974 Super Beetle With 2110 cc. engine
A teamster for 38 years
Widowed,Retired and traveling
Joe and Tara my Toy Poodle
jcamp123 wrote: Do as others have said, proper inflation, and front end alignment. Save your money on all those fancy sway bars, stabilizers, and shocks and spend it on toys that you can use. As I have said many times on here IT"S A TRUCK AND IT'S SUPPOSED TO RIDE LIKE A TRUCK
I love when people say to not spend ANY money trying to make a rig handle better.
The probelm is that a 31' class C on an E-450 chassis is the same as asking my 5 y/o daughter to carry me around piggy back. Too big a rig on too small a chassis.
So, yes, there are improvements you can make. Yes, they should be done from the factory and you should NOT have to do them, but they aren't. Save your money of you want to. But, there are great inprovements that can be made if you want to.
In order of importance:
Balance load
Tire pressure
Front end alignment with full camping load
Replace stock shocks with Bilstein or Koni
Add steer safe type of device
Replace anti sway bars with larger diameter bars
I have done all of the above.
Some will say add rear trac bar. I have not done that.
All of the above will improve the handling of the class C. No, you do not HAVE to do any of it. But, I can't imagine driving my 31' class C in stock form.
Then again, I don't ask my daughter to carry me around piggy back either.
Good luck!
Jim and Deanna
Tiffin Allegro 35QBA 2007 Carson Trailer 22' Titan TH Trailer Toad
Me, Wife, Boy/10, Boy/7, Girl/5
Faith/Springer
1985 Toyota 4Runner
five quads, three kids, two motorcycles, one wife, one dog, one cat!
I just purchased a 31 ft MH and was also considering putting money into the front end. I will most definetly get an alignment first. Then take it out a few times
I'd drive it some and see how it handles for you. We bought a 30.5' Forest River Sunseeker last year and I have no complaints with the way it drives from the factory. It's a hand full in a strong crosswind but I suspect that will be a problem no matter what you do to it.
Have RV....Will Travel
2007 Forest River Sunseeker 2860 LTD
2000 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
We bought a Jayco Seneca that handled great. That was maybe three years ago. We just bought another that handled badly. Read all these threads about track bars and sway bars and aftermarket shocks, and such, and was ready to spend some real money to fix it.
My first mechanic told me, no, it's supposed to work like it is. He didn't have the stuff to align something that big, so I went to another mechanic. He said it already has good sway bars and shocks. He aligned it for $180. Now it drives good.
He greased the "drag links" too, said they were dry.
It's still a little bit squirmy---particularly at 70mph, which I only do to test the handling/suspension---but he says that's the goodyear tires. He said that'll get better as they wear down. He said next time get Michelin. The tires on our previous rig were Michelin.
If you have a Ford E450, you'll have both front and rear sway bars. If you have an E350, you'll have only a front sway bar. The stock sway bars are less effective than the upgaded ones from Roadmaster or Helwig. The upgrades are more than twice the strength and resistance to twist and bend, and also are mounted with poly bushings instead of rubber bushings. Those bushings eliminate even more play. Basically the upgrades are more effective.
But the stock sway bars do contribute.
It's under more severe conditions when you'll wish you had something better. Hopefully, still avoiding an accident. Taking a turn far too hard on a mountain by-way would be one example.
* This post was
edited 03/14/08 07:53pm by ron.dittmer *
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