Took some current readings today as I was curious about the current draw of my Norcold while running on gas, I went a little further so I thought this might be useful to others:
Current measured with battery at 12.68 volts.
- CO & LPG detectors together draw .061 amps (0.77 watts)
- Norcold 6 CF running on LPG = .609 amps (8.5 watts)
- Forced air heater running = 3.49 amps (44.25 watts)
- Dual bulb florescent fixture = 2.15 amps (27.25 watts)
- One overhead incandescent bulb = 1.45 amps (18.38 watts)
- Northern Breeze Fan on max speed = 3.99 amps (50.6 watts)
- Northern Breeze Fan on 1/2 speed = 1.15 amps (14.57 watts)
- Northern Breeze Fan OFF = 0.049 amps (0.62 watts)
- Cheapo Bathroom ceiling vent fan = 1.24 amps (15.71 watts)
- TV Antenna Amplifier = .041 amps (0.52 watts)
- Ventline range hood exhaust fan on HI = 1.32 amps (16.73 watts)
- Ventline range hood exhaust fan on LOW = .622 amps (7.89 watts)
- Ventline range hood exhaust fan light = 1.38 amps (17.49 watts)
- Stereo/DVD player with power off = .057 amps (0.72 watts)
- Stero on FM at mid volume = 1.1 amps (14.94 watts)
- 'Go Power' 300 watt PSW inverter 'ON' mode = .23 amps (2.9 watts)
Hope this can answer a few general questions about power draw in our campers.
Thanks for this info. I have always been told the furnace was the big "draw" which your readings seem to confirm. It has always been why when I boondock, that I turn the furnace real low for the night and then don't "warm" the place up until I start genny.
wabbitman
Chevy Silverado 3500 HD ext cab 4x4
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Thanks! We are in the midst of figuring out power consumption with the thought toward solar. Got an interesting book on solar and boondocking and actually had our host 3 ring binder, paper pencil and calculator spread all over the kitchen table.
Joe
2008 Host Rainier 9'6" dual slide on a 2005 Ford F-350 Diesel DRW
On the Road Again from Rural Maine Our travel blog with photos
The other night when I was installing my LED lighting I had my voltminder plugged in. I noticed that turning on one light(two bulb incandescent)made the voltage drop about as much as when the furnace kicked on. According to your findings one bulb draws 1.45 so my two bulb fixtures would draw 2.9 Before I installed the LED lighting I normally ran two or three of these lights(5.8-8.7). I didn't realize how important LED lighting was until now. One light would also draw the voltage down more than turning on the fantastic fan. How did you measure the amps? Your readings are much more useful than reading voltage drop..
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A TriMetric Battery Monitor seems a bit pricey, but after having put one in my TC, I think it is a must have. It allows you to measure the AH of everything you have. It will tell you how many AH are left in your batteries (or battery), how much you are putting in (charger or solar), and several other things.
My TC is old enough that it had no battery, a worthless charger, and no solar. I upgraded all three. I initially used battery voltage to determine AH use. Compared to the measuring AH by the TriMetric, the voltmeter is only better than nothing.
I live in my TC four nights and three days a week, and have done so for the past four plus years. I selected all the components for my 12-volt system, and personally installed them.
I seldom run my generator (Honda 2000), and always know the state of charge of my one 100-AH AGM Lifeline battery. Unless the furnace comes into play, I typically use 20 to 25 AH per day. Of that, about 6-AH is used for lights (no LED's), and the rest for my computer or TV. That leaves me about 25 to 30 AH for the furnace.
I was never comfortable using the factory installed idiot light or my handheld instruments. I was never monitoring when I really needed to be... always after I had a problem.
Now... I also use a Trimetric. It utilizes a shunt to very accurately measure amps, amphours, percentage full for the battery, voltage, Highest voltage since last reset, lowest voltage since reset, how long since your battery was equalized, and can be set at a lower limit.
Knowing the information in the original post on this thread and being able to monitor it allows you to function with a minimum amount of batteries, etc... Wayne has mastered that about as well as anyone I've met.
I keep trying to use less power rather that add more batteries.
So far I have been doing very good at it... except that daggone furnace fan.
I have seen a number of posts over time about the amperage drawn by the fans of a forced air heaters. I have seen not anyone bring up that the Attwood Everest Star 8012 has a 1.8 amp fan draw. Now this may be of no help to some, because it is front discharge only and 12,000 BTU. but for the Outfitter 6.5 Caribou I will probably end up with, it is more than sufficient. Personally, I think the heaters and ACs are way oversized for the tiny amount of cubic feet inside truck campers. I would rather have a smaller heater or AC cycle on a little longer (and less noisily) if needed. For some this might be a good alternative.
Baja Bound - Unfortunately, most of us have pretty inefficent furnaces. Far more heat goes outside the TC, than in it. It is very costly to replace our existing furnaces with something more efficent.
My solution was to add a Wave3, and an electronic (with timer) thermostat for the furnace. This allows me to use the Wave3 for the primary heat, with the furnace as a secondary source of heat.
Everyone is not comfortable with the Wave heaters. This is my third TC with a Wave. It works well for me.
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Before I installed the LED lighting I normally ran two or three of these lights(5.8-8.7). I didn't realize how important LED lighting was until now. One light would also draw the voltage down more than turning on the fantastic fan. How did you measure the amps? Your readings are much more useful than reading voltage drop..
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