I have read that some folks that travel in cars without issue tend to be sensitive to motion sickness in an RV. I believe the explanation is because your brain is telling you you're in a "living room", which SHOULD be stationary, yet it's moving! Plus, in an RV, you're sitting quite a bit higher so side-to-side rolling motions are more exaggerated than in a normal passenger vehicle.
Just out of curiousity, do you notice this problem when you ride on a bus? Buses often have air suspension that dampens the motion. Maybe you'll need to buy a diesel pusher?!?!? LOL
Fortunately, it doesn't effect our kids so I'm happy! But like others have said, trying to read can often enhance the effect, so if you're trying to read while riding, you might wish to see if it will happen without reading.
~Rick
2005 Georgie Boy 3625 DS on a Workhorse W-22 (Class A)
Rick, Gail, 1 girl (12-Angel), 1 girl (7), 2 boys (8 & 5), 1 plump Golden Retriever.
2001 Honda Odyssey with Demco Aluminator tow bar & tow plate, SMI Silent Partner brake controller.
Oh boy, here I go again. My appologies to you eye-rollers. At the risk of sounding like a suspension freak, I have something for the original poster to think about.
It seems your coach needs to be stabilized because you are getting sick from "rocking" motion. It handles normal as motohomes do rock side to side easily.
BUT............You can do something about it.
Given you did not mention what brand, year, and chassis type you have, I will go through what we had done to our 2007 Ford E350 chassis to make it the best possible for stability & handling. It also has much less motion when parked. When people walk around inside, there is much less vehicle movement.
Keep in-mind, this was done on a brand new motorhome.
- wheel alignment, using off-set bushings (factory set camber was off by 1")
- added a Roadmaster 1-1/2" rear stabilizer bar (E350s don't come with them from the Ford factory)
- replaced the stock 1" front stabilizer bar, with a 1-3/8" Roadmaster
- replaced the stock shocks with Koni-RV shocks
- replaced the stock steering stabilizer with a heavier duty Safe-T-Plus version
- added a Henderson rear trac bar (because we tow a car)
We had this done locally by a specialty shop. Total cost was $3900. Some of this can be done cheaper elsewhere or by yourself, and using Helwig bars, in place of the Roadmaster ones.
You should be much happier on the road after addressing these points. You will also have much better control when wind and imperfect road surfaces are present.
Bought new in June 2007, Phoenix Cruiser-2350
Fits inside our garage.
Dingy towing a red Toyota MR2 Spyder
See The Inside by clicking on "View Profile" and scroll down
sgtks84
Stop in at a Health Food store and buy some Ginger Capsules. The type used for Morning Sickness in pregnant women. Take a couple of them, and eat Gingerbread cookies for a snack when on the move.
BTC
It seems like Workhorse Class A and Freightliner Class A are the worst in this regard. The Monaco custom chassis, Spartan Class A and Sprinters are best in this regard. I agree with weasel4 and Bruce3404, the ginger seems to work pretty well, I've used that for boats and it should work equally well on soft and spongy motorhomes. See if you can get Bilstein shocks for your chassis, they help.
Offline
LOL
