I know for running the a/c unit depending on brand, I've seen that the "continuous" amp demand is between 13-16 (???) amps (for the 15K btu a/c). But, what is the STARTING amps on those a/c units?
I need to find out to see if twin Honda EU2000's in parallel can handle the start up (MAX) load. The twin Hondas only put out 30amps MAX (for 30 minutes) and 26 amps continuous.
I know that STARTING amps can be as much as "double" the continuos load, but generally isn't.
I keep getting mixed opinions on this issue and I haven't been able to find a definate answer.
I plug in to a 20am service at home and can run A/C if nothing else is on (fridge on propane, no WH, etc.)
Our Web Albums
For pulling...2005 Chevy 2500HD LT D/A and 1998 Dodge Durango SLT 5.2L
To be pulled...2002 Glastron GX205 and 2005 Pilgrim 276BH-5SS 5'er
It is hard to see with a regular voltmeter because it is over before the meter gets a good reading on the surge - at lease on my meter.
However, if you turn the A/C of then back on before the compressor gets a chance to equilize, it will be out of site. I did it and saw 49 amps when the circuit blow. (i.e. don't do that)
I believe that the actual starting amps are the same as the LRA (Locked Rotor Amps)- which is usually considerable (in the 50-60 amp range).
But... this lasts for a fraction of a second, so really isn't a useful rating as far as genset sizing is concerned.
Chris Bryant wrote: I believe that the actual starting amps are the same as the LRA (Locked Rotor Amps)- which is usually considerable (in the 50-60 amp range).
But... this lasts for a fraction of a second, so really isn't a useful rating as far as genset sizing is concerned.
Right, but the starting capacitor charges up to provide the extra kick at startup so your generator won't see the starting current unless the compressor stalls.
If it stalls, you want the circuit breaker to flip or else the current will burn up the motor windings.
curious Bob - we fulltime with our Cairn Terrier, in 01 National Islander, and 00 Saturn LW2
Chris Bryant wrote: I believe that the actual starting amps are the same as the LRA (Locked Rotor Amps)- which is usually considerable (in the 50-60 amp range).
But... this lasts for a fraction of a second, so really isn't a useful rating as far as genset sizing is concerned.
Right, but the starting capacitor charges up to provide the extra kick at startup so your generator won't see the starting current unless the compressor stalls.
Nope, this isn't a DC circuit where the cap charges up and provides and "OMPH" to get the motor running. At startup, it will draw locked rotor amps until the speed picks up.
A larger starting cap can help by producing more torque, cutting the time that the motor is spinning slow, and it will improve the power factor some.
Popsie wrote: If it stalls, you want the circuit breaker to flip or else the current will burn up the motor windings.
Normally the motor protector will open up and protect the motor before a circuit breaker will trip. Most of the time it protects the motor, but burning out the motor is a posibility.
Offline
