Capt_Leisure

Colorado Springs

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Joined: 05/17/2007

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Rear bunk removed. Trailer staged in my garage bay and ready for massive mods.

Removed junction box and popped trailer wire cable out. I don't like the idea of plastic fittings exposed to damage.

Lots of unused storage space beneath slideout.

That converter has got to go.

I wonder if I bit off more than I can chew?

Wish me luck.
Captain Leisure
* This post was
edited 04/24/08 08:54am by Capt_Leisure *
2006 Starcraft 13RT - "We found that clowns are universally disliked by children."
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webiknight

Mesa, Arizona

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Joined: 04/14/2007

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Did I miss something? What type of MODs are you doing?
2006 Starcraft 36RT
1999 Chevy 2500 Crew Cab 7.4L
2002 Yamaha Grizzly
2003 Yamaha Kodiak
2005 SunL 150
2008 Coolster 125cc
2008 Coolster 70cc
2005 SunL 90
Check out the pics
Check out the MODs
The Right to Bear Arms --- AFFIRMED
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fairfaxjim

Fairfax, CA

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Joined: 07/18/2005

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Capt.,
I know what you mean about that converter, but your's looks even cheesier than mine! Those Elixer converters are total garbage though.
I had to do much of the same re: wiring on my 11RT - all that stuff is down there just hanging loose. I go places once in a while where the scrub brush is tall enough to unwire my trailer. I put mine in with J-boxes and non metallic conduit. I still have some to go, hope to finish it this summer.
One mod I did, that you may want to consider while the bunk end is out, is I made an aluminum strip to mount the little weather strip gasket between the bunk end and the box when it is pulled out. Mine was just half heartedly stapled on, and was getting ripped every time we deployed. 1/8" X 3/4" strip, drilled every few inches for a small flat head screw was placed over the mounting half of the weather strip. That sucker is on there now.
As to "too much?", just keep chewing.
Jim & JoAnne
2007 Toyota Tundra Double Cab
2004 Starcraft 11RT
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stormspotter

aurora, co

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Joined: 06/26/2005

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I wish U good luck. I think U will get it done in no time. It is too bad that on an off road trailer that they would not come from factory with the wiring out of the way. Especially considering the use it will proabley get. I have heard of mounting a skid plate on these trailers have U guys considered this?
My trailer is a very on the road trailer but I do take it on rougher roads and have done some minor damage to it. Have considered some sort of protection for the bottom of mine and flipping the axle.
Tc happy camping
me
DW 
son 
schnauzer dog
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stacaz822

Phoenix, Arizona

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Joined: 10/21/2005

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See my 13RT mods here. We think alike.. 
http://www.pbase.com/stacaz/starcraft_13rt_mods
I've also done a lot since then. Will post more pictures soon.
Stacaz
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Hornet28BHDS

Parker, PA

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Joined: 01/29/2007

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What mods are you doing?
2006 Hornet 28BHDS-Bunk House, Dual Slides
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 HD
5.7L Hemi, Factory Towing Package
Reese Brake Controller, WD Hitch and Sway Bar
Life is short, why not spend it in an RV!
SPRING HAS SPRUNG!
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Capt_Leisure

Colorado Springs

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Joined: 05/17/2007

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Hornet28BHDS wrote: What mods are you doing?
OK... here goes. In no particular order:
- Rewire trailer
- Custom drawers with full extension drawer slides (like stacaz822)
- Dual 6V batteries
- Rear bumper carrier (like Diesel-Dude)
- LED porch light on front deck
- Digital thermostat
- WFCO 8735 converter/charger and relocate in galley
- Roof rack with cargo basket and table carrier
- Flashlight mount near door
- Nylon shower curtain
- Under slideout storage (like stacaz822)
- Turn old converter location into storage cubby
- Box in exposed water fittings in front cabinet
- Extend trailer wiring to a junction box beneath galley
- Run 4 ga. cable from converter to battery
- Inverter install beneath galley
- Flip up counter top to service everything now crammed inside galley
I got the water heater drain fittings boxed in and the trim put back on the face of the slideout last night.


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Capt_Leisure

Colorado Springs

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Joined: 05/17/2007

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Drawers are in. Thanks to stacaz822 for the idea!

On another note, my order of 7-conductor bulk trailer cable and junction box from etrailer.com is "Out for Delivery". I was looking underneath the trailer last night and the rewire job (as much as I'm going to do for now) should be a snap. The trailer wire junction box, converter and inverter will all be relocated within galley.
I'll be running 4 ga. cables from battery POS to converter and battery POS to inverter. Battery POS to pin 4 (black wire) of trailer plug will still be 10 ga.
There will be a single 1/O ga. cable (about 7' in length) from battery GND to a ground terminal on the frame beneath the junction box in the galley. Ground cables for converter (4 ga.), inverter (4 ga.) and trailer wire (10 ga.) will clamp onto the same stud as the 1/O ga. cable from the battery.
Captain Leisure
* This post was
edited 04/24/08 08:56am by Capt_Leisure *
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vinny68

Bloomington, IL, USA

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Joined: 01/28/2004

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Very creative use for the cheesehead! That cracked me up.
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Capt_Leisure

Colorado Springs

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Joined: 05/17/2007

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The converter cabinet (now "ex"converter cabinet) mod is nearly complete. Below is a picture from about midway through the process. The 4" hole below the new cubby was part of the demolition process. It's a long story, but had I known exactly how the cabinet and wiring were laid out, it wouldn't have been necessary. I'll have to think of a nice way to cover that up.
According to the installation specs, the furnace requires 5/8" clearance around the top and two sides. I have nearly 2" of clearance minimum.

As you can see, the shorepower cable now routes down to a new compartment I made below the cubby. I used a 2" 45 degree PVC elbow glued within a block of plywood to help guide the cable down.

The shorepower cable exits the compartment through the same hole in the floor used for the tailight wiring. It will be routed beneath the trailer along with the furnace and water pump power cables and come back up underneath the galley where the new converter will be located (stay tuned).
Captain Leisure
* This post was
edited 04/24/08 08:56am by Capt_Leisure *
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