frozeinny
Crossville, TN
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Joined: 05/23/2004
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Our MH has check valves on the cold and hot side of the waterheater. We lost our hot water near the end of our last trip, same as happened just over a year ago.
The check valves are located in the back of the waterheater, which can not be slid our because of the engine aid connections. (engine aid uses engine heat to keep your water hot while on the road.
On our MH the check valves must be accessed by going up behind the waterheater through an access panel under the MH. First time we were in Arizona so I took the MH into a repair shop and they put it on a lift to do the work. $200+ later we again had hot water. This time there were no repair shops near where we were staying so we just toughed it out for a few days. Being cheap (or is it frugal) I decided to see if I could replace the valves myself. When lying on a creeper its easy to reach the cold side valve but a real reach to get to the hot valve at the top of the waterheater. THATS THE ONE THAT FAILS.
MY question is: can I eliminate the hot side check valve without serious issues?
I don't mind one day of torture eliminating the top valve if I can avoid replacing it every year.
Donna, Dan, Riley (11yo Greyhound) & Bailey (6yo Greyhound)
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Bill v
Lansing, Kansas U.S.A.
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I know that several of the people in our Witt club have took the insides out of their check valves. They have been out for 3 or 4 years and they say that they haven't had any problem. I've replaced mine once and the next time it happens, I will strip the inside out of the valve and put it back in the heater.
38J Winnebago Adventurer 2005 
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Ron & Shirley
Lake of the Ozarks Missouri / Donna Texas Winter
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Joined: 12/13/2004
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This is interesting. We all have Winnebago/Itasca coaches. We, also, had to replace our check valve a few weeks ago. Ronnie was able to do it himself after a friend told us what the problem was. It was very difficult to get to but he has long arms and is on the thin side.
Shirley
Ron & Shirley
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drifterpilot
Gloucester, Virginia
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Joined: 03/17/2002
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My hot water heater check valve has recently been replaced (after 4-1/2 years and 46,000 miles).
It is a major job getting to mine as there is only a very narrow compartment stowage area just aft of the hot water heater location. It takes a very, very skinny person (not me) to lay/stretch on your left side to access the area behind the hot water heater. Any other option involves removing the water pump, pump piping, a removeable bulkhead and possibly engine coolant piping. Not an easy job no matter how you look at it. In Fairbanks, Alaska, I did observe a very small frame RV Dealer technician replace my hot water heater thermostat via the stowage area access.
I was told by Winnebago Tech Support that the check valves are essential to keep the winterizing mixture from going in and "pooling" in the bottem of the hot water heater.
Just my two-cents worth.
2003 Winnebago Adventurer 33V
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bdemattia
Full Timer - Florida right now
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I had to have mine replaced after just a couple of months (2008 Monaco Dilomat) - I had the bypass removed and just replaced with PCV - we full time and will not be winterizing so the check valve has no real purpose in life except to stop you from getting hot water. If I ever have to winterize I will just put a gate valve in the line to keep the anti-freeze from routing through the heater. (The old fashion way)
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J Walker
Oakton, Va
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Joined: 06/12/2003
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drifterpilot wrote:
I was told by Winnebago Tech Support that the check valves are essential to keep the winterizing mixture from going in and "pooling" in the bottem of the hot water heater.
Just my two-cents worth.
The check valve has nothing to do with keeping anti-freeze out of the water heater. The bypass does that. Check valves are just to prevent backflow into the water heater.
Jim Walker
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tomousecap
East Moline, IL
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I solved all our check valve problems by replacing the spring loaded valves with gravity operated check valves from Lowe's. They have no flow restriction and will not stick shut. They do have to be mounted horizontally our maybe a little high on the outlet end. I should have done that years ago, they work great. 
Bob
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full-timer
Where we park it, USA
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I took the check valve out of mine 4 years ago when it stopped working and put a straight fitting in. I can tell no difference in it.
Joe
An Indian and a Gypsy
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Troubleshooter
Anchorage, AK
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Joined: 05/02/2002
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J Walker wrote:
The check valve has nothing to do with keeping anti-freeze out of the water heater. The bypass does that. Check valves are just to prevent backflow into the water heater.
Please explain. Does this mean that I can remove the checkvalve, and no antifreeze will enter the water heater?
IMHO, a single lever winterization valve simply isolates the water heater from the cold water system, and shunts, or bypasses, the incoming cold water to the hot water lines. The check valve in the hot water outlet is what prevents the RV antifreeze from filling the water heater via the hot water outlet line.
Only One Old Fellow's Opinion
Bill
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hohenwald48
Hohenwald, TN
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Joined: 07/27/2002
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Troubleshooter,
You are exactly right. However, the check valve or valves are a constant source of problems. I removed mine and installed regular 1/4 turn manual shut off valves. No more check valve problems but I now have to turn several valves to winterize and de-winterize. Not a big deal.
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