I've been lurking about this site for awhile, absorbing all your knowledge. Can't even begin to tell you how much we appreciate all this stuff!
I haven't seen this problem addressed here yet, so I will attempt to make some sort of sense here in the hope that someone has already figured this one out.
We have an Arctic Fox 1150 sitting on a F350 Dually, beefy everything. Everything is great, love it. Unfortunately last weekend on the way out to the lake, one of the camper shocks mounted on the underside of the camper bunk, attached to a bracket on the front of the truck, pulled out of the camper frame, screws and all.
You can see that a prior owner had a similar problem because both sides have been relocated and the holes filled. Now, do we just remove them and go without, or do we try to patch the holes and relocate the shocks a 3rd time? It looks like we are running out of good places to mount them.
After looking at a bunch of your pictures, it would appear that not many of you have these. Ours came with the rig. We bought it as a package deal from the prior owner. So far, this is the only issue we have had since purchase, about 2 years ago.
Without seeing the photos, it is hard to tell, but possibly, the shocks should not have been installed to begin with. Not all manufacturers design camper support points for them and some clearly warn against them. Also the actual truck might be different than the one originally used. So legnth, and mounting angle could be issues. I think the other four tieddowns are 99% of the issue, and it is their proper use that will keep camper where it is supposed to be.
I am sure others will have more useful info.
Good luck.
A while back there was a couple of threads on some Arctic Fox 990's that had the front (right front, if I remember correctly) mounting tear out. The reason was that the mounting was not anchored sturdily enough. There was a fix for the condition that included adding some steal plates or bracing inside the camper to strengthen the mounting area. You may want to contact Arctic Fox and ask for suggestions and advice.
Good luck,
Kurt
2001 Silverado 3500 DRW CC LB 6.0
1993 Lance Squire Lite 150 (8'6")
2001 Fleetwood Caribou 11J (11'6")
I just reread your post. Forget what I said above. You are talking about the shock/struts/dampers that are attached to the bottom of the cabover (at one end) and to the truck (at the other end) by where the windshield and hood meet. These struts are a Lance idea. I don't think that Arctic Fox necessarily recommends them. Take them off and see how it handles.
W.I.W.F.,
Do a search. This has been covered over and over.
Beyond that, I use the Lance Struts. I installed them following the scant instructions to the 't'. The downward stroke seems kind of short to me, in other words, the tendency to bottom out the plunger seemed too easy. The first few years, they seemed to be for one purpose; to reduce the 'porposing' effect on certain concrete highway sections that set up an annoying fore-to-aft rhythm. Every time we went on bad roads, I had to disconnect them, as they would exceed the intended travel limits and pull out (as you have observed) by the screws. There are some variables. If your tie downs are loose, or the camper is off set for some reason, you store heavy object up high, you have no anti-sway bar, you have a thick, spongy bed mat, your bed mount rubbers are deteriorating, you will also have sway and control problems, all to do with exceeding the limits of travel of the struts.
So, I use them less and less, and now will concede that unless I hit that porposing section of road where they shine, I don't need them at all. I still use them on long road trips. But, I'm ready to whip them off if the road gets beyond the limits. They are a lot of trouble for me (with my magnetic off-road style). I would say you need at least 4" of up travel on the rod to give you enough downward compression space. I probably would do better to move the strut upper bracket rearward as I only have about 2.5" of up travel (by the book)
My theory is that those with a camper center weight, C/G closer to the rear axle of the T. will experience more of the porposing, ying yang, see-saw that these struts were made to control.
When I use them, I do feel a more 'controlled' ride of the TC. Just not as 'wobbly' as without.
You will get a lot of nay-sayers about these struts, mostly from those who have never had them, but here is a guy who has had them and is less and less impressed with them as to something you really need.
regards, as always, jefe
* This post was
edited 04/20/08 11:24pm by jefe 4x4 *
'01.5 Dodge 3/4T, CTD, HO, Qcab, SB, 4x4, 6spd, D60, D80+Pwr Loc,
camper&tow pkg,Titan V, 285/75R-16 frnt, 33/14.5 Nitto super singles rr,
Rancho 9K's, Warn M15K winch. tows Jeep CJ8 rock crawler on 14' trailer
'98 Lance Squire Lite 165s, 8' 6" X Cab
I'd install the bracket to an aluminum plate over the damaged area, large & heavy enough to then secure the plate to the camper, install enough stainless steel screws with caulking, that should look good & never be a problem again.
05 Dodge Ram 2500 QC SWB 4x4 Laramie.
Firestone air bags, Super Springs, Helwig sway bay, Rancho 9000's, Reese tow beast, MagHyTec diff covers, Toyo Open Country 285/70/17's, Numerous Performance Mods.
I have been very satisifed with my struts. When I 1st got the TC they were not available for a 2005 Dodge. A year later I put them on. It made a big difference, especially in the wind. I do take them off on rough roads. I would not recommend putting them on a non Lance. If you are bound and determined to put them on a non Lance, I'd beef up the area you attach them to on the TC and be sure things are fastened securely to the TC frame. Also position them so they have adequate travel in both directions.
Good luck and good camping.
2005 Dodge 3500 DRW:Firestone air bags w/ in dual cab control, Rancho 9000, Helwig sway bar, 55 gal fuel tank, cold air box
2005 Lance 1191: generator, TV, A/C, solar
Bayliner 19.5 Capri & 12 ft. Gregor
1965 TBird
Rosie the dog
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