Some people use these and swear by them (of course I guess I would too if I invested that much money) but personally I feel that as long as you stick to a 5000 mile oil change interval then there is no real benefit to using either. Of course they won't hurt anything either, other then your wallet.
The only real advantage to these would be that (along with regular oil analysis) they "COULD" allow for greatly extended oil change intervals. The problem with extending your oil changes though (as has been mentioned on the Ford boards) is that if something (oil related) goes wrong with the engine, Ford is going to want to see proof of scheduled (their schedule, not yours) oil changes. Good luck convincing them that your 10K+ intervals weren't the cause of the engine problem.
2007 F350,SC,LB,4x4,6.0/Auto,35" tires,16.5 Warn,Buckstop bumpers
2007 Outfitter Apex9.5,270W solar,SolarBoost2000e,2 H2K's,2KW inverter,2 20lb LP on slide out tray,4 Lifeline AGM bats,Tundra fridge
95 Bounder 28' ClassA sold
91 Jamboree 21' ClassC sold
Rick,
What is your goal? Do you want that engine to live for a million miles? OK, use a syn lube and the bypass filter. Will you sell it before it would wear out ordinarily? Save your money. Do you need the added engine protection in very cold winters? Do consider a synthetic, but there are others equally good as Amsoil for less money. You can likely extend oil drains longer than 5000 miles with any good synthetic, but only a lab test of the oil ($22.50 or so at many good testing labs) will tell for sure when it is safe to exceed the oil drain recommendation in the owner's manual.
I feel that Amsoil's oils are good products, but way over hyped and over priced. Read all the fine print in Amsoil's warranty and see if anyone could ever file a claim that meets their requirements for acceptance, or if a claim would likely ever be approved.
I'm free of prostate cancer for 5 years now.
All men over age 50 should get an annual PSA blood test. Mine had a low reading, but the yearly jump was significant. The biopsy showed cancer just entering the aggressive stage. Dr. Hackenslash removed it.
I have an 03 6.0 and I currently run regular oil with a Frantz bypass.
I had the oil tested 3 times before I installed the bypass, and each time, even under different driving conditions (towing, commuting,hot, cold, etc.),I could have extended the oil change past the 7500 mile mark. I installed the bypass because the high pressure oil pump as well as the injectors are precision instruments with tight tolerances. I change the bypass at 2500, 5000, and 7500 miles. I teed into the bypass return line and added a dump valve. This way, I can change the bypass filter with no mess because the filter is almost empty after it drains. I only loose about 1/2 a quart.
I am considering running sythetic, but the price steers me away.
I have the Oilguard system using their larger filter and container EPS 60 IIRC. I also use Schaffers 9000 5w40 full synthetic oil. I have gone to 15K miles on the oil and will extend to 20K and test. I think it may go out to 30K.
Schaffers does not shear down after 15K. This is important as I experience out side temps from -9*F to +120*F with these types of temps a lower 5 w oil is best. but 40 W is needed when towing in the higher temps of summer.
As for cost I think having the cleanest oil and being able to extend the oil change intervals will save money and not in to long of a time either. Schaffers costs about $3.65 a QRT. This is great!
If you use the factory method then NEVER go beyond 5K using Motorcraft oil as it's additive package is spent by then. it has also sheared down to 30w.
The Oilguard system will filter down to about 1 micron. The Ford full flow filter goes down to about 25 microns. Anything less than 3 microns is preferred as the gap on the bearing journals is about 3 microns.
Using full synthetics is also better in extended oil change intervals as well.
It is easy to figure if it pays for itself by simple math.
Lets figure 60K miles and 5K changes using factory oil and filters. That is 12 changes versus 3 at the worst case for my system. Ford gets about $125/change and you can do it for about $60. $60x 12 =$720
16 qrts of Schaffers 9000 5w40 @ $3.65/qrt =$58.40
eps 60 filter=$28.00
ford filter= $11.00
That's about $98.00 after the initial cost of the kit which comes with 1 filter.I paid less than what they cost now but lets say $450 for the kit. That makes the factory oil changes done at home cost about $720.00 and the Oilgaurd system cost about $670.00 since the first change will need the kit and 1 ford filter and the oil only. Add about $20.00x 3 to test and in 60K miles it breaks even.
So I think you would be dumb to not do it IMO. For me not having to crawl under the truck 3 times a year is worth it alone. An added benefit is the oil is not imported and I use much less as I change much less. Add to all this the fact the the oil is better and the filtration is better and you see why I do it.
Long haul truckers do this too and they add life to there engines. I expect wear to be minimal over 400k-500k. If so then this engine will go for 30-40 years at 15K/year. Longer than most will keep it and I will be to old to enjoy it too.
Allen
2005 Ford F-350 CC Dually 6.0L Diesel 4x4 King Ranch loaded, Supersprings, Coolant filter, Oilguard bypass filter.
I'm considering doing the cheap route bypass oil system.
The 7.3L has a pressure port and a return port right by the full flow oil filter. I think the 6.0 does too.
You can get a base:
And then use these filters:
The filter has a .5 GPM orifice inside. I've read that it's about perfect for the PSD. Fittings will cost about $40 to go too and from the bypass using stainless braided hose.
I've seen installs where they either mount it to the firewall behind the regular oil filter, or mount it up front behind the grill.
"The Oilguard system will filter down to about 1 micron. The Ford full flow filter goes down to about 25 microns. Anything less than 3 microns is preferred as the gap on the bearing journals is about 3 microns."
Just thought I'd correct this statement - a micron is a millionth of a meter, so a micron is 39 millionths of a inch. That makes a typical bearing clearance 50 to 75 microns. 75 microns is a tad under 3 thou.
Gotta love the metric system.
Brian
2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab, Hemi, 5 speed manual, 3.73 gears, Tow Beast hitch with 24" extension.
28 ft race car hauler, Lola T440 Formula Ford, NTM MK4 Sports Racer
2004 Travel Hawk 8' Truck Camper - Roll at 16K combined weight
VintageRacer wrote: Gotta love the metric system. Brian
Well, if nothing else it is accurate. Lemme see 39 microns = 0.000682415 inches.
I can't see why anyone would even want to mess around with a by-pass filter or synthetic oils. It's far cheaper to buy an $8 oil filter and a bucket of oil than to use synthetics. Remember you're driving rv's and pickups, not over the road haulers - so your average oil change is 6000 miles (959656.083312167km) maybe less. The only way to make synthetics work for you = run the vehicle 18,000 miles (28968.2499365km) and make three filter changes.
Wolf
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