My wife and I bought a 2000 Flagstaff 827fls (superlite) travel trailer a few weeks ago. Well as we were cleaning it to get ready for our inaugural trip, a weak spot was found (knee crunched thru luan in jackknife sofa area. I ripped out the linoleoum and found a sickeningly rotten, and actively wet floor in the front part of camper (sofa, kitchen area).
I've determined that the leak in the front is coming in thru the front access hatch. We have LP tanks in front of unit, not on the hitch, and they require a large hatch. It looks nearly identical to this camper Lazydays RV SuperCenter Camper that looks like mine I've already completely gutted the floor, and found only aluminum box frames. So atleast I don't have to replace any floor joists. The kitchen leak was from a leak the previous owner disclosed to us as coming from the Roof mount TV antenna which was broken and we've removed it and capped the hole. The front leak thru the hatch I'm planning to modify the door (its not sealing tightly causing water infultration). I think I'm going to add 2 more twist locks, like the hatch already has on lower left side of the door, in the upper two wings of the front door. I'm also pricing replacement of the door, but not looking forward to drilling out the pop-riveted piano hinge that its mounted to.
I have been racking by brains trying to figure out the best method to replace the floor. Original construction was the usual luan 3/8" (I assume), 1.5" XPS (cheap cooler foam), and 3/8" luan. The way it was built originally was wood stapled to aluminum frame, then foam the same thickness as the aluminum square tubing, then stapled luan. I would like to leave the fully intact belly wrap in place (both external and under floor sheet) so I don't have to mess with reskinning the belly.
On to my project and questions, what is the best way to insure a suitable floor surface? I was thinking of either pop riviting 2 holed L brackets to the 1.5" aluminum framing, with corner shelfs to hold 1/2" plywood, then install 2 new 1.5" square tube aluminum crossmembers in each of the 2 frame boxes (think adding a plus sign inside the current square of framing). Then use whatever thickness foam will fit, and top it with the thickest plywood that will fit under the furniture (kitchen, counter, slide, door frame) probably stuck with 3/8" top ply.
Some questions:
1. Any issues using zinc plated steel in close contact long term with aluminum pop-rivets and aluminum square tubing?
2. Do you think 1/2" plywood would be a strong enough support even thought its being suspended by brackets, or should I go up to 3/4" ply and less foam. Also there are 2 beams running the length of trailer on either side just under the floor wrap, but only 6" or so from edges of alum box frames. Or should I just throw 3/4" ply on the beams and call it good.
3. Any suggestions for a better way?
4. Suggestions for something to replace the wood that is lighter, as strong, rot resistant, but not prohibitively expensive?
5. Should I spend the money on exterior grade plywood (pressure treated) or would the increased alkalinity also cause increased support corrosion?
Bonus Question: Am I over thinking things a bit too much and should just slap it together and see what happens?
{THIS SPACE RESERVED FOR CORRECTIONS TO MY HORRIBLE WRITING)
Thanks in advance,
Steve L.
Soon to be camping enthusiast (hopefully)
Fred & Jodie, dogs, Zoey & Bella
2007 Nissan Titan, 5.6L Big tow, Equli-z-er Hitch
2007 Forest River Salem 27RB LE
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guy across the street just found a large bad spot going under a wall and under a cabinet when he decided to replace some carpet it seems to start in one corner next to his slide in ,he wants to make one more trip befor he starts tearing it apart to fix it only time will tell untill he starts the job how it will end up.its a 2002 model.
1985 Class A Holiday Rambler Imperial 33 +1979 Class C Holiday Rambler Statesman 1000 = 24 ft
I had a similar issue in one of my previous TTs,only mine had 2x2 wood floor joists,and house insulation with Tyvek on the belly.I took the booths out of the kitchen area and pulled vinyl and OSB floor up,ripped all the wet insulation out,put fans in there for a couple days,then cut out bad 2x2s and replaced and added a couple extra as they layed on the frame rails.Replaced floor with 1/2 marine plywood,after I cut pieces of Dyfoam and slid them between joists.Used a lot of structural glue,I drilled some holes in floor under the booths in storage area for air down in between floor and belly,then put that inter locking laminate floor down that matched kitchen cupboards,everyone loved what we did to the kitchen!(I didn't tell them what I really did to the kitchen!)Made the floor nice and solid,hope this helps.
2008 Keystone Cougar XLite 29RLS
2006 Super Duty V10 6 Speed 4.10S Tow Command Tow Pkg. 4X4
Plywood is one of the lightest and strongest products made, so almost anything else you use will be heavier, perhaps a lot heavier.
A sandwich of 3/8" luan plywood, foam, and 3/8" plywood is quite strong and very lightweight IF done well.
I understand your interest in not disturbing the belly wrap because redoing it would be a PITA, however I'd want to know that the outer (lower layer) of luan was not also water damaged. If it is, then it's got to go. If not, then you're OK. I'd pull out a section of the foam in the worst area to see if the luan below it is water damaged.
In theory, there is no need for waterproof subflooring in the TT. But, your design with the front LP tanks seems to increase the risk of water leaks into the coach. I'd do some serious work in that compartment to seal it so an future leaks into the LP compartment drained the water down and out of the coach and not into the floor structure.
I would not use zinc-plated steel for floor supports in an aluminum framed TT. I'd use aluminum. It's easy to get, easy to work with and not that expensive considering that you won't need much. If you use all aluminum, then you won't have to worry about corrosion. If you want to use steel or zinc-plated steel, then get some galvanic isolation compound to keep the different metals electrically isolated.
Steve & C. J.
"Gracie" the Rough Collie & "Bo'sun" the Bichon Frise
I guess I wasn't clear enough in my description (not that big of a surprise). Both layers of luan and all foam has been removed. The interior belly wrap is all that stands between me and the under body belly wrap. The bottom luan was so rotten, (and soaking wet) that I could just rub it to bits. The only wood left now is the wood thats between the belly wrap and the aluminum framing (and only where it staples in).
About using the aluminum L brackets and corner supports, I haven't been able to find any so far at Lowes, I'm guessing I'll either have to special order it from Grainers or something, or maybe a local old timey hardware store.
I have thought about using one of those truck or van rubber mats used for extreme weather (really a big pan to hold water). Then put in a drain tube to allow safe passage of the water through the floor and out the same drain that the battery box drains through to the outside.
Please feel free to offer any suggestions you think valuable.
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