I have heard of a couple of good ways to handle the dog that pulls. One is to rverse direction each time the dog starts to pull. So a 15 minute dog walk might include 15 minutes of walking 3' back in forth in front of your house.
Another idea is to use a 9' lead and hold your leash in the left hand about 4' from the dog collar, and then use the remaining 3' from the end of the lead to spin it in circles in front of the dog's nose. Go forward, and the nose gets hit by the lead end. They start to learn not to pull or pass.
Another idea is a "Haulty" - it looks like a muzzel, but the dog can still open his mounth wide open. One part goes around the dog neck snuggly, then a small adjustable part goes over the nose with clips below the mouth, where the leash attaches to the haulty. When the dog pulls, the haulty clamps it closed, so pulling is fruitless. They just stop pulling, but don't really learn what they are doing wrong, just that they can not pull without being very uncomfortable
Another thing is to use a clicker. When the dog does something right, give a click and treat just as fast as you can click and treat. This makes the dog pay more attention to you than anything else.
Fred.
Money can't buy happiness but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a Porsche or Country Coach!
Ya know.... this is a conversation and as such people will have a variety of responses. It amazes me when it turns sour and people start slamming one another. I know it happens frequently with certain posters but I just don't understand it.... we can be truly civil and still have a conversation, can't we? I assume we are all adults.
As for us, our dogs are well trained, they know we are their alphas but we also allow them to stop and smell the "p-mail" along the way when we are out for a stroll. That is why I said it doesn't really bother me that our dogs get a bit ahead of us sometimes.... and yes they might even pull a little if they smell something interesting.... and yes I correct them if they need it. We enjoy having dogs in our life and we also appreciate it when they enjoy themselves.
The original poster has purchased a "halti" and may have good success with it training their dog to do what they want it to. If not, some obedience training could be their next step. Dogs are as individual as their owners, so results may vary. Some owners are perfectly happy with various levels of freedom on a walk, some are not. There is always room for some gray, not everything is black or white.....
Cat
(Jim just reads the forum once in a while)
Be kinder than necessary because everyone you meet is fighting some sort of battle.... Live simply, love wholly, give generously, care deeply, speak kindly.
CatandJim wrote: Ya know.... this is a conversation and as such people will have a variety of responses. It amazes me when it turns sour and people start slamming one another. ....
I agree with you Cat, and I also agree with the way you walk your dogs.
* This post was
edited 04/27/08 09:10am by whimstock *
We have a lab, Chipper, that used to pull, and the Halti Headcollar (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=875&ref=3928&subref=AA&s_kwcid=halti|1108945581)
cured him.
At first, Chipper HATED it, pitching a fit, rolling on the ground, trying to rub it off with his front paws (make sure it's fitted very snugly until he's past the "trying to rub it off" phase). Soon enough, though, he learned that it wasn't so bad, and that it meant that he got to go for a walk. Now a 2 year old could walk him with no problem. We always use it, because as soon as Chipper realizes that the Halti isn't on him, he starts pulling again. I highly recommend this headcollar over the Gentle leader, which is always tight around the nose. The Halti is only tight when the dog pulls.
I also agree with above posters that an obedience class would be very beneficial for you and your dog. I've trained so many dogs over the years, that it comes second nature to me, but if you're not used to training dogs, it can be a little confusing to know what's appropriate and what's not. You do need to be the pack leader-not to create robots, but to earn your dog's respect. Dogs don't have the reasoning power that we have (or think we have! ). They only understand that someone must be in charge. If that someone isn't you, then the dog will attempt to take over that role. That's just part of their make up.
Good luck! Just remember: a well-trained dog is a happy dog, and so is his owner!
* This post was
edited 04/28/08 05:14pm by Iteachmiddleschool *
Me ('57)
DH ('55)
3 kids (18, 20, 23)
Chipper (lab, 11) and Duke (boxer, 6)
2007 Dodge 1500 V-8/HEMI; 3.92 axle; WDH with Dual Cam
2007 Keystone Passport Ultralite 285RL
Iteachmiddleschool wrote: We have a lab, Chipper, that used to pull, and the Halti Headcollar (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=875&ref=3928&subref=AA&s_kwcid=halti|1108945581)
cured him.
At first, Chipper HATED it, pitching a fit, rolling on the ground, trying to rub it off with his front paws (make sure it's fitted very snugly until he's past the "trying to rub it off" phase). Soon enough, though, he learned that it wasn't so bad, and that it meant that he got to go for a walk. Now a 2 year old could walk him with no problem. We always use it, because as soon as Chipper realizes that the Halti isn't on him, he starts pulling again. I highly recommend this headcollar over the Gentle leader, which is always tight around the nose. The Halti is only tight when the dog pulls.
I also agree with above posters that an obedience class would be very beneficial for you and your dog. I've trained so many dogs over the years, that it comes second nature to me, but if you're not used to training dogs, it can be a little confusing to know what's appropriate and what's not. You do need to be the pack leader-not to create robots, but to earn your dog's respect. Dogs don't have the reasoning power that we have (or think we have! ). They only understand that someone must be in charge. If that someone isn't you, then the dog will attempt to take over that roll. That's just part of their make up.
Good luck! Just remember: a well-trained dog is a happy dog, and so is his owner!
I wouldn't put a GL or Halti on a young Springer Spaniel.
I also wouldn't jerk her head back. I do like the idea of getting into classes. Walks are more about building relationships then getting exercise. It's really hard to walk a hunting dog like a springer enough to get her sufficient exercise. That's why the playing ball idea is a good tip. Then she'll be just pleasantly tired enough that she can actually enjoy the walk with you. You won't be battling each other. She's a pup. It's easier to learn when she's having fun, not getting yanked all over the place. (If she pulls that much, she'll be wearing the fur off her muzzle with a GL)
Rugaas is a well known and well respected trainer. I think that you'll have good success with her techniques and your springer pup.
Dh, our 2 year old German Shepherd, 15 yr old Beagle/Spaniel and me.
Exploring every National Park (and Monument) in USA, Canada, Mexico & beyond.
3 well-used backpacking tents.
2008 Itasca Impulse, 24'
jspringator wrote: Local feed supply place had a "Halti", which looks like a gentle Leader. Dog hates it (for now), but he walks like a different dog! Thanks everyone.
Our dog walks with a Halti since he's 10 m.o. and he is now 2 1/2 y.o. and still hates it. We started using it when he's much younger but found it too easy for him to slip out. He still can slip out from it if he really wants to but I have this safety link attached to his harness for good measure.
The only draw back with Halti is some people has mistaken it as muzzle and keep their dog away from us. My boy wouldn't be happy unless he greets every being he met on his walk.
I've started feed in him meat treats when he's in his Halti. He hates it less now. I need to teach the dog how to fetch and really get him worn out before we walk. I'm going to put him back on the harness instead of the choker collar. For those using the search feature, this 4 MO pup uses a size 1 tightened up all the way. Any looser, and he chews the bottom strap.
TKW wrote: Our dog walks with a Halti since he's 10 m.o. and he is now 2 1/2 y.o.
This is the problem with Haltis, GLs, and other equipment-based solutions. The dog never really *learns.* You're always dependent on the equipment, often as long as your dog lives. Of course, equipment is useful and helps resolve the immediate issue. But it should be your first step. Not your last step as well.
I used the gentle leader on my 1 yr old corgi. He was very dog aggressive and pulling constantly. I used it to gain his attention. I also used treats. I started off by giving him a treat every time he turned his head slightly toward me, then when he looked at me, then when I would say "watch me" he got a treat when he looked at me. I also went to two or three obedience classes a week, so what if you take the same class over and over, your dog is socialized and being worked constantly. Training is the key to success.
It was very very hard initially to walk him, but I'm happy to report that 2 yrs later he walks by my side, he still gets goofy once in awhile, but I can redirect his attention to me very quickly.
Like another poster said you don't want your dog dependent on a piece of equip, so that if you don't have the equip on they don't behave. It is a tool to gain their attention and once you have trained them to keep their attention on you, you won't need the gentle leader anymore. I haven't used the gentle leader in a year or so, I just use a non-slip collar. He has successfully shown in rally obedience and I can take him pretty much anywhere and he behaves himself.
Keep your dog at your side, give treats when they give you their attention and lots of praise. Good luck!!