Like your approach, and sure understand the saving and paying along the way... Check my signature for the adjustments to our F53.
I also think you should have your steering system checked, including the gear box, as the power steering should do the bulk of the work for you.
I have not confirmed that this is available for this year F53, but you also might want to look into Koni for you Steering Stabilizer. We have and like the Safe T Plus, but I think I read that Koni also now has a unit available.
My suggested course in relation to handling:
1) Four corner weight, tire adjusted per manufactures chart
2) Good front end alignment, with toe in set to help on straight tracking. (Their are margins within the specs, but moving towards one end of the margin range makes a difference. Good alignment shop that know the F53, will know what this setting is.)
3) Safe T Plus or Koni dampener
4) Koni FSD's
5) Rear Davis
6) Poly Bushings
Suspect this will make the rig drive very nice. If you are planning to keep it for several years. Look into the air bags, as the F53 front is known for it's less then smooth ride...
You could add Roadmaster Sway Bars, and front Davis Track Bars. I'm also adding the Airtabs to this unit, to help on cross winds and truck passing....
Best of luck, and between all of this - enjoy the rig!
Smitty
On my 1991 F53 chassis there was no stabilizer and it needed it. I installed the new Bilstein steering stabilizer which comes on many new coaches and the "Tru Trac" unit. Out here crosswinds of >40 mph are common and what a difference these two components made. The coach has Bilstein shocks and air bags.
jro52, with only 24,000 miles on your coach, I would be more concerned with where the leak is actually coming from. Steering Stabalizers of any brand are only friction assist. The only one that would have fluid would be a horozontal monnted shock damper, which like a regular shock does have fluid inside. Low fluid would be more of an indication of stiff steering as well as noisy when turning. Tire pressure is so important as well as the condition of the tires themselves. As far as alignment, there is little to do to the front suspension except toe-in on both sides. This is where the steering wheel can become off-center, due to taking short cut setting the toe-in on one side only, commonly done @ alignment shops. Taking the steering wheel off to center is not correct, since the steering gear box is designed with a low spot on the worm gear to help the vehicle drive straight ahead. A good reputable front end alignment shop knows this, my suggestion is go to your Ford dealer. It's highly unlikely that with 24,000 miles, your coach needs a lot of work, save you $$$$. Enjoy your new motorhome, and drive safely. Good Luck......
David
1997 Fleetwood Southwind 37Y / Ford 460 / Power Platform / Tag Axle
Our Crew: (1)Yorkie, Twin Japanese Chins, Toy Poodle, Chihuahua, and last, but not least, their "MOM", my co-pilot and wife.
Buick Regal
Ford Taurus
Proudly served, USAF 1959-1963
See sig. Recently added the Koni Steering Dampner and four FSD. The steering dampner has no spring so it does not make turning difficult but provide, but provides safety in a blow out and assists in returning the steering to center. Love them, so far.
Me, The Wonderful Wife
and two Spastic Border Collies U.S. Army Retired 2004 Coachmen Aurora, 3480DS 2007 Saturn Outlook, FROG
Taking the steering wheel of to recenter it is in fact the proper procedure after completing an alignment. In fact it's the only Ford approved method for insuring the steering wheel is centered after an alignment has been completed. Here's the link to the FORD bulliten describing how and when it should be done.
A Workhorse chassis has a tie rod with adjustable ends at each wheel. On this chassis the steering wheel should be centered and locked in place before begining an alignment. The toe in shold be set at each wheel by loosening the sleeves at either end of the tie rod and turning the center section. Once the proper toe in has been achieved the bolts at either end of the sleeves should be secured.
The Ford F53 chassis has a single adjustable tie rod end on the passengers side of the coach. The toe in for both tires is set by adjusting this component. Once the proper toe in for both front tires has been achieved the sleeve is tightened and the steering wheel is centered.
Here's a link to a discussion about lubricating the chassis of an F53 chassis. The second post on the page by BillARF includes a diagram from Ford describing the location of the grease fittings and showing the single adjustment on the tie rod.
* This post was
edited 04/27/08 07:50pm by Hikerdogs *
Hikerdogs wrote: Taking the steering wheel of to recenter it is in fact the proper procedure after completing an alignment. In fact it's the only Ford approved method for insuring the steering wheel is centered after an alignment has been completed. Here's the link to the FORD bulliten describing how and when it should be done.
A Workhorse chassis has a tie rod with adjustable ends at each wheel. On this chassis the steering wheel should be centered and locked in place before begining an alignment. The toe in shold be set at each wheel by loosening the sleeves at either end of the tie rod and turning the center section. Once the proper toe in has been achieved the bolts at either end of the sleeves should be secured.
I stand corrected......You are correct for thid paticular application.
David
The Ford F53 chassis has a single adjustable tie rod end on the passengers side of the coach. The toe in for both tires is set by adjusting this component. Once the proper toe in for both front tires has been achieved the sleeve is tightened and the steering wheel is centered.
Here's a link to a discussion about lubricating the chassis of an F53 chassis. The second post on the page by BillARF includes a diagram from Ford describing the location of the grease fittings and showing the single adjustment on the tie rod.
Thanks for all the posts. The education of this non-gearhead newbie RV owner continues! Didn't know the steering stabilizer bar was an after market add on. Thanks. So, what is the difference between the $100 unit that the Ford dealer is quoting me and the $3-400 Safe T Plus stabilizer? Any other models to consider?
Front wheels were out alignment...had left outside and right inside wearing down. Caster was adjusted and wedge installed to make it right. Steering wheel was staightened as well. They also rotated the tires.
Tires are all Goodyear G159s (245/70/R19.5), but appear to be different years. (Which is odd b/c the owner said that the tires had been replaced...I guess not all of them...imagine that). Where is the tire code that shows month and year of manufacture? Ones on the front (now after alignment) have a code of 300458, then GRW 43EP. In real small print there are two codes: 410407 and 410403. The ones in the rear have a code 274501, along with DOT MJ98, PMAW 469 and A07R. Does any of that mean anything? Also, I've been following the tire inflation numbers on the driver's door. Should I be doing something different than what that says?
There is also what looks like about 1 or 2 inch tubular steel in the front of the axle that is attached farther forward to some bushings. What is that?
Thanks again for everyone's help and being patient with my learning curve.
Take care of the basics first. That means proper tires and air pressure, proper ride height, proper alignment, and good shocks.
I've got the same MH as yours and after taking care of those things, my 35U is easy to drive and comfortable to ride in. A steering stablizer isn't standard and is a band-aid that is sold/bought to cover up other deficiencies. And as you've learned, it can also cause problems.
First weigh it and run the proper pressure in tires that aren't more than 6 years old. I suspect you will end up with 80-85 lbs of air as your unit should weigh about the same as mine.
Second, check to see if your unit is level side to side and front to back (a little high in back is even better). If not, add air bag assists to the rear. Do this before getting the alignment.
Third, get it aligned and get a printout of the final alignment. If the caster angle hasn't been set to at least 4 degrees, tell them to do it again and get it to Ford's spec---not the alignment's shop spec. A link to Ford's spec was provided above by another poster. This is probably the most important thing you can do to assure good handling (although the Koni shocks below would be a close 2nd).
Fourth, put Koni FSD shocks on all 4 corners.
Steering stablizers, track bars, sway bars are unnecessary expense and complexity----get the basics correct and you'll be good to go. If it was me, I would take whatever steering stablizer that is on your unit off. It makes the power steering work a lot harder at low speeds.
By the way, it's not uncommon for the steering wheel to be turned slightly off-center when correctly aligned.
Also, the tubular "thing" is a sway bar. One is standard equipment.
Mark
2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U on a Ford chassis
2003 Ford Explorer toad with US Gear brakes,
ReadyBrute tow bar, and Demco base plate.
I put Monroe RV shocks and Goodyear G670 tires on and just got back from an 8,000 mile trip. It was a pleasure to drive. I formerly had Goodyear G159 tires and stock shocks. I went with the Monroe shocks for a softer ride than Bilsteins and am very happy with them. With the SafeT-Plus and AirLift springs the constant 30 to 40 mph winds for about half of the trip were really minimized, could drive with one hand comfortably.
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