so, here's my problem... i've got a regular time based controller. When I press on the brakes, the electric brake applies pressure at whatever rate i set it for. The problem is if i released the pressure on the brakes (even the slighest liftoff), the brake controller lets go and waits for me to either re-apply the brakes, or increase the brake pressure. This is witnessed when I touch the brakes during the nighttime, and can see that if i feather the brakes, my truck brake lights go out.
My question is this.. i don't think i can do anything to change the way my truck does it's braking, but would a different controller (tekonsha p3) be less dependant on the signal provided by the tow veh? would I be able to feather brakes on my truck, and the trailer continue to apply the appropriate pressure?
YES...get rid of your time based controller. The more you know how poorly they work, the faster you will want to get rid of it. You will be able to feather the brakes with a P3 for as long as you want.
Alfred May
2005 Excursion V10 4.30 4x4
2002 Cedar Creek 30RBS TT by Forest River
Reese Dual Cam
Tekonsha Prodigy
eros1976 wrote: so, here's my problem... i've got a regular time based controller. When I press on the brakes, the electric brake applies pressure at whatever rate i set it for. The problem is if i released the pressure on the brakes (even the slighest liftoff), the brake controller lets go and waits for me to either re-apply the brakes, or increase the brake pressure. This is witnessed when I touch the brakes during the nighttime, and can see that if i feather the brakes, my truck brake lights go out.
My question is this.. i don't think i can do anything to change the way my truck does it's braking, but would a different controller (tekonsha p3) be less dependant on the signal provided by the tow veh? would I be able to feather brakes on my truck, and the trailer continue to apply the appropriate pressure?
Let me know.
Oh yes, Ive been there. Took me half of forever to figure out what was happening. Like you said, the slightest release of the brake pedal causes the brake light to go out and in turn the trailer brakes release and slams the trailer into the back of the truck. What specific model GM are your driving? I had a Trailblazer that did the exact same thing, and NO A Prodigy/P3 WILL NOT HELP.....I had a Prodigy. I replaced the brake light switch, no difference. The switch design is similar on my current Silverado.
The problem is that the switch was carried on the brake pedal, basically on top of the actuator rod that went through the fire wall. The pedal and switch can return at a faster rate than the rod, so even if there was still braking at the truck the pedal could lift faster and release the switch. What I ended up doing was taking the brake light switch apart, there is a spring inside. Cutting the spring solved my problem, 1 and 1/2 coils if I remember right. Kept a spare switch in the glove box. Keep in mind that should the switch fail due to lack of spring power, the brake lights will remain on.
I suspect your situation could be solved in a similar manner, if I understood your post correctly and you are mechanically inclined. Good luck.
holy technical batman... i'm not into cutting up a switch spring. but I understand your explanation. that being said, i thought that the P3 was designed to "feel" the need for brakes, not the actual sensor of brake input from the brake controller. I guess if it doesn't sense that there's need for brakes, that it won't allow the signal through to the trailer. dunno?
All brake controls use the brakelight switch to activate. I've gone from timer based to a Prodigy and never regreted it. Inertia activated controllers can give you the same problem if not adjusted correctly.
eros1976 wrote: holy technical batman... i'm not into cutting up a switch spring. but I understand your explanation. that being said, i thought that the P3 was designed to "feel" the need for brakes, not the actual sensor of brake input from the brake controller. I guess if it doesn't sense that there's need for brakes, that it won't allow the signal through to the trailer. dunno?
2006 gmc sierra.. tow package.
Sounds like youve got it.
Example; say you brake to 50% in the truck, and the P3 applys 4 volts. Now release/feather just enough to cause the "problem". Even though the truck still has say 40% brakes applied, once the trucks brake light goes out (even for that split second) the P3 turns off.........hence the trailer slamming into the back of the truck.
You could always go the Brakesmart or Maxbrake route, might be overkill though. Good luck.
I don't know how that would help. If the brakes are off, the brakes are off. The trailer will do the same thing. Unless, your truck needs to be deep (relatively) into the pedal stroke to activate the brake lights.
I agree with getting the Prodigy - Excellent controller!
If you have to push your brake pedal very far to get the brake lights to come on, you may need to adjust your brake switch. When the switch activates, it tells the Prodigy it has to do something. It then senses the inertia of the truck and applies the brakes accordingly, regardless of slight slowing or hard braking. It is better to have the trailer brakes lead the truck - It tends to keep the trailer where it belongs.
My Mrs., 2 Yorkies & Me in our "Rollin' Hotel II"
2007 Legends 31RE3SLF-5 by Pilgrim International
2001 F350 7.3L PSD SuperDuty CrewCab Long Bed 4x4
Prodigy BC & Reese 15K 5'er Hitch
1. If you're applying the brake pedal, the brake lights should be on. All I've ever had to do is touch the brake pedals on any vehicles I've ever owned, and the light comes on. It doesn't go out until you've removed your foot from the pedal.
2. The trailer "slams" into the back of the tow vehicle? There's too much slop in your hitching arrangement IMHO. It's just going to keep shucking and jiving until it shears a pin or wallows out your hitch.
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