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 > Battery Chrg while Towing - Why doesn't it work???

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Matthew_B

The boonies near Dallas, Oregon

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Posted: 05/12/08 06:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I wanted to no longer worry about getting the camper batteries charged. I upgraded to a lift gate connector for the camper and used 4 gauge wire throughout. If I had a trailer with the longer wiring from alternator to trailer, I'd consider 2 gauge wire.

First off, here is the connector:





They are meant for powering lift gates on semi trailers. They are rated for 100 AMPS and take up to 4 gauge wire. To give a sense of scale, they are the same size as semi 7 pin connectors, which are a little bigger than the 7 way RV connector

Both are available from NAPA:

Truck end: PHI-15-326, $22.49
Trailer end: PHI-15-336, $18.49
Plus a 100A solenoid: PHI-54140 $27.99

I put the big connector in place of the existing 7 Pin in the truck bed, and added a 4 pin next to it to carry the marker lights, LT, RT and backup wires. Ground is via the big connector.

For circuit breakers, I bought them from www.waytekwire.com

Here is the wiring diagram. (Click for big)



I haven't organized the install pictures so I hadn't put them up as a thread yet.





code3run

S. CALIFORNIA

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Posted: 05/14/08 09:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MNtundraRet wrote:

There is usually a 30 amp fuse for the charging circuit in your pickup truck. It sounds like the fuse has blown.

Mark


Yep. I ran my truck for months before I relized my Expedition did not even have the 30 amp fuse in the box under the hood. Never relized my battery on my pop up trailer was not charging.


2008 ATTITUDE 21AK
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PopBeavers

San Jose, CA

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Posted: 05/14/08 12:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

code3run wrote:

Yep. I ran my truck for months before I relized my Expedition did not even have the 30 amp fuse in the box under the hood. Never relized my battery on my pop up trailer was not charging.


I used a volt meter to measure all of the pins on the plug on the back of the TV to verify that voltage was present. I discovered there was no charge voltage. So I knew that there had to be a pulled fuse somewhere.

I used the backwards approach.


Wayne in San Jose
TV1:2002 Chevy 1500HD 4wd Crew Cab,Valley Odyssey brake ctlr,McKesh mirrors
TV2:2008 GMC 2500HD long bed 4wd Crew Cab,GMC brake ctlr,GMC mirrors
TT:Trailmanor 2720
Honda 2000
Yamaha WR250R,Polaris Sportsman 700 X2,Polaris Scrambler 500

Elliott

Guymon,OK USA

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Posted: 05/16/08 10:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'll go along with bigger wire is better for a long run, but will someone please tell me how they connect a #2 gauge wire through a 6 or 7 pin trailer plug and socket! Also how many amps will a 7 blade rv plug handle on the charge wire, before it burns up?


Bob

tatest

Oklahoma

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Posted: 05/17/08 12:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Either an open circuit, or too much resistance between alternator and trailer batteries. Your voltage check says open circuit (blown or missing fuse) is not the problem. But the voltage check isn't saying how much current flows with charging loads.

You need heavier wiring from the alternator back to the plug, maybe from plug to battery, and maybe a connection at the plug that will carry more current with less resistance. This wiring is typically undersized, on both trailer and wiring packages for the tow vehicle.


Tom Test
Itasca Spirit 29B
2001 Ranger Edge


cewillis

Tucson, az, usa

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Posted: 05/25/08 10:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Elliott wrote:

I'll go along with bigger wire is better for a long run, but will someone please tell me how they connect a #2 gauge wire through a 6 or 7 pin trailer plug and socket! Also how many amps will a 7 blade rv plug handle on the charge wire, before it burns up?

The lift gate connector that Matthew B described above would be good. I used Anderson Connectors.

Deen

Vancouver, WA

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Posted: 05/25/08 04:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MNtundraRet wrote:

There is usually a 30 amp fuse for the charging circuit in your pickup truck. It sounds like the fuse has blown.

Mark
OP says they have checked the line and power is getting to the TT.


Deen - Vancouver, WA

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Pete D

Washington

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Posted: 05/25/08 06:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Elliott wrote:

I'll go along with bigger wire is better for a long run, but will someone please tell me how they connect a #2 gauge wire through a 6 or 7 pin trailer plug and socket!
I put a #6 on my connector by just cutting off a few strands right at the connector.


1998 Ranger 4.0 4x4
1991 Scamp 13'

scanlonj

Worcester, MA.

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Posted: 05/25/08 07:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I know the OP said he had voltage at the TV connector, so this does not apply here but in addition to the 30 AMP fuse for the charging circuit some vehicles also have a relay too. My 2001 Expedition was not charging the trailer battery, fuse was there but the full height relay was missing. Bought the relay from my Ford Dealer and it now works fine.


Jim & Sylvia
Two sons in college
Two Dogs
2001 Ford Expedition
2000 Palamino Stampede 21-SDSL

dougsee3

Calgary AB

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Posted: 05/26/08 06:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bldrbuck wrote:

Your alternator is controlled by voltage. The truck battery probably is telling the alternator that it is fully charged so it will put out only a very small amount of current thus the battery in the trailer will receive only a small charge. That plus the loss due to the long length of wire from the alternator to the trailer.


It is my understanding that this is totally true.

If you add the real possibility that the TT battery is low on charge, it will load or trick the alternator and over produce a charge and cause water loss and extra heat to the TV battery and still only very very lightly charge the TT battery due to the wire run, even with the heaviest cable you can run to the TT.

I do under stand that the GM alternators of recent years are capable of charging two battery's or isolating if you will. I do not know if they are wired as such in a trailer wiring option package.

A person with the knowledge and resources would need to measure the voltage and amp charge rates of the TV and TT to make me believe that a decent rate of charge can be applied to the TT without harming the TV battery.
Even though there is a electronic charging loss the TT and TV need some sort of a battery charge isolator to charge the TT and TV properly.

As for TT charging I will stay with some solar, the 3stage converter with shore power, and or Generator. Being that to get even 3 to 5 amps hrs to the TT, My TV battery would have to endure 20 to 30amps and the alternator would have to over work and probably overheat and shorten its life as well.


2005 2500 Avalanche
2004 30' Terry Quantum 290FLS
Equal-i-zer,Prodigy
Calgary Alberta


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