No reason they can`t cut off the old brackets/hitch. after thier off then the new 5`er hitch and brackets could be installed like it`s never had a hitch before.
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02 Excursion 4X4 V-10 4.30 gear
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JimmyFred's suggestion is about the way I would do it (I do welding).
Sluggo's suggestion is good if you can mount the B&W ball mount box to the support frame that is already there. My guess is probly not without modification to the support frame, in which case, JimmyFred's suggestion would prevail, in my mind.
I have the Turnoverball gooseneck hitch on my truck. That Companion 5th wheel hitch attatchment looks very well built, but expensive. It has good reviews on this site.
dodge guy wrote: No reason they can`t cut off the old brackets/hitch. after thier off then the new 5`er hitch and brackets could be installed like it`s never had a hitch before.
I agree. Cutting with a grinder with a cut-off wheel, instead of with a torch or plasma or air carbon arc, will limit the heat input to the frame too.
carringb wrote: If the brackets were welded to the frame flange, then I would not remove them. The frame was heated during the weld process, and will be heated even more when the welds are ground off, which can harden the frame (sounds good, but it's not because that leads to cracking). If the brackets are welded to the frame web, then grind away. The weight of the truck isn't really carried by the frame web, it just keeps the space between the top and bottom flanges.
I agree about limiting heat input.
Grinding is a very low heat operation compared to welding, torch cutting, pre-heating, annealing, or heat treating though. Grinding can be done in small increments to further reduce heat input. I don't see a hardening danger from grinding. Any modification to the metal's grain structure has already occurred with the previous welding and cooling.
That said, grinding with a thick (1/4") grinding wheel over a long time concentrated in one area, bringing a wider area of metal to a red hot state does input undue heat to the metal. Use of a 1/16" cut-off wheel, working intermittently and moving around the workpiece a bit to different areas, heat input from grinding/cutting is greatly reduced.
The web of the frame provides strength in the vertical direction. The flanges provide strength in the horizontal direction. The web of an I-beam, or C-channel on edge, carries the bulk of the vertical load and usually makes up the greatest section of material in the member.
In an H-beam, or C-channel laying flat, the flanges provide the verticle and the web provides the horizontal strength.
I agree, welding accross the flange of an I-beam, or C-channel on edge, placed in vertical load where the flange in question is under stress of tension (as opposed to compression), should be avoided, as that creates a stress riser on the flange in the heat affected zone around the weld. A crack can form there and subsequently run through into the web, causing catastrophic failure of the member.
* This post was
edited 05/16/08 11:36am by SoCalDesertRider *
Many heads here are surely better than mine by itself.
I agree with heat issues. Grinding does appear best option, but it does appear it will not be an easy task.
The B & W option is out the window. It would have been nice to have done a partial replacement with B & W Turnover Ball parts, fitting them onto the existing frame rails that are welded on. But, none will line up or fit.
Sorry the Turnover Ball idea didn't pan out. Would have been nice.
Might be easier to un-bolt the bed and pull it up off the frame a few inches on one end to get the old hitch frame out. If you have tight access for grinding and can't fit a 4" electric angle grinder in there, try a little 90* angle air die grinder with a 3" cut-off wheel, or even a straight die grinder with a carbide bit on the end to help get the tool in there.
If this is a one-time use tool for you, Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, and probly others, have them for low prices. I don't like advocating buying Chinese, but for a tool you only need for a one-time application, the Chinese stuff does save some money.
xthread wrote: I just found out about this hitch last week, Take a look,see if this will help you.
www.colibert.com
That appears promising. A lots of ifs, of course. IF the center hitch bar fits between the existing welded rails and IF the side portions will fit without too much grinding.
But a great idea, and a source I had not previously heard about.
I have read somewhere, because of the alloy steel in the Dodge truck's frame, that any welding at all was not recommended by Dodge.
I hope the welds don't lead to trouble later on. Even cutting off the old brackets, and grinding the weld smooth, still leaves the parent frame material's grain structure permanently altered.
Might want to conferr with your local Dodge dealer before continuing.
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