I thought the Equal-i-zer came with a similar tool as the dual cam. I just amounts to how high do you want to lift the trailer with the jack. Some don't lift as high and use the cheater bar, others lift high enough to just slip the bar or chains. It makes no difference which hitch you are using.
I posted this some time ago in the Towing forum but it also applies here. Here is the hookup procedure for both the Dual Cam and the Equal-i-zer hitches. You make up your own mind which one is easier or has fewer parts.
Dual Cam (original style)
1.You insert the WD bars into the hitch head.
2.Draw up the chains (if using the older style)
3.Lock snap up brackets in place. DONE
If using the newer HP style:
1. Insert the WD bars into the hitch head.
2. Put chain plates onto cams.
3. Draw up the chains.
4. Lock snap up brackets in place. DONE
Equal-i-zer
On the other hand, the Equal-i-zer requires that:
1. Insert WD bars into head sockets.
2. Insert retaining pin into WD bar and socket.
3. Install keeper pin so retaining pin/bars do not pull out of socket.
4. Raise WD bars up high enough to place on L brackets.
5. Install Bar retaining brackets on L brackets.
6. Install keeper pin.
In addition, you should use a torque wrench to check the torque on the hitch head pinch bolts to make sure you have the correct amount of tension on them so the sway control works correctly. There is nothing to check, adjust, or torque on the Dual Cam once it is installed and adjusted correctly.
As you can see, there are a whole lot more parts to deal with and more steps to take when using the Equal-i-zer hitch than the Dual Cam. I am not saying the Equal-i-zer is not a good system, but only that it is NOT easier to hook up or has fewer parts to deal with than the Dual Cam. In fact, just the opposite is true. Both hitches can be hooked up without using the supplied pipe or, in Equal-i-zers case, the bar tool, by raising the coupler while attached to the TV - so that is a non issue.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch
2002 Ford F250 Super Duty, 7.3L PSD
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AGnGG wrote: I'm looking to upgrade my WDH. My TT came with an older Reese with straight bars and a friction sway control. I'd like to find a better sway control option. I've found a lot of info by searching on Equal-i-zer and Dual cam, but no good comparison between the two. It looks like it will be $300+ to upgrade my Reese with the dual cam hp and new spring bars, Equal-i-zers new are not much more. Anybody used both systems that can comment on which provides the best sway control?
TV is a Ford F250SD
TT is a 2000 Salem 27BH
This is the kit you need Reese Dual Cam, you can easily convert your old straight bars with this kit.
Good Luck and Happy Trails
2007 Dodge 3500 4X4 MC,SRW,CTD EB
2004 Citation 29NP
Equal-i-Zer
Yamaha EF2800i
Nascar24 A lengend in my own mind, A Scary thought in someone else's!
Nascar24 wrote: This is the kit you need Reese Dual Cam, you can easily convert your old straight bars with this kit.
this is the one i got and the only thing i had to do was raise up the propane brkt. to ride even on the u-bolts and re locate my break away switch a little.
35'6" TT and not a wiggle out of it-even with passing semi's. nothing like the fun i used to have with a smaller TT and a friction bar
2004 silverado 2500HD crew cab 4x4 long bed 8.1L gas hog
2006 skyline nomad 3260 platium edition, prodigy, reese dual cam
1 very part time camping son and 3 full time camping, 4 legged fur balls
1 SU (spousal unit) who loves rv'in as much or more than me
BillB800si wrote: Now I am completely confused..
What dual cam did you have? I have never used any "tools to tighten anything up with" when I hook up my dual cam.
Help me out with this one...maybe I am doing something wrong.
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When you pull the torsion bar up via the chains you need a pipe to engage the snap up bracket.
We don't need any tools with the Equalizer. Except of course my hands to guide the bars onto the L-Brackets.
Happy trails,
You need no such bar if you hook it up correctly by raising and lowering with the jack. I don't even carry mine anymore.
05 Super Duty XLT CC 5.4/3.73 5 sp auto Torqshift
06 Keystone Hornet 29 RLS/(The"Cracker Cabana")
Reese HP Dual Cam
Much easier for a DIY install, or if you want to adjust things later on (I moved my L brackets a bit when I added dual 6V batteries). Can remove with no holes (resale, etc).
The Equal-i-zer has great ground clearance, cleaner look, and no risk of anything falling off.
But I've read enough from both sides to agree that it's probably a matter of preference, not functionality.
Thanks for all the replies. Definitely helped. I'm going to pickup one of the dual cam kits vs. the dual cam HP. The dual cam will allow me to use my current spring bars. If I were buying a whole new hitch it would be difficult to say which way I'd go. I talked with two local RV dealers, both of whom say they sell only a couple of Reese hitches each year. They both recommend the Equal-i-zer and say most new buyers go that route based soley on cost.
We have the Reese Trunnion Style W. D. Hitch with H. P. Dual Cam & have been very pleased with the setup.
I do have a couple of questions though, do these spring bars and/or Dual Cams require any type of lubrication. I've heard that you shouldn't lubricate either however, I took a look at my spring bars today and noticed that the portion that slips into the ballmount sockets is very worn.
Also, how many years of service should you be able to get out of a set of spring bars before having to replace them.
Your thoughts please.
'03 Silverado 1500, Ext.Cab, Z71 Off Road, 4X4, 5.3L, 3.73 rear, AutoMeter Trans Temp Gauge, Putnam Class IV
'08 Jayco JayFlight G2 23FB, Reese WD Hitch, HP Dual Cam Sway, 800# Trunnion Bars, Barker 3000# Power Tongue Jack
mehwwh wrote: We have the Reese Trunnion Style W. D. Hitch with H. P. Dual Cam & have been very pleased with the setup.
I do have a couple of questions though, do these spring bars and/or Dual Cams require any type of lubrication. I've heard that you shouldn't lubricate either however, I took a look at my spring bars today and noticed that the portion that slips into the ballmount sockets is very worn.
Also, how many years of service should you be able to get out of a set of spring bars before having to replace them.
Your thoughts please.
Don't know where you heard that you should not lubricate the spring bars as that is absolutely untrue.
You should always lubricate the hitch bars where they attach to the hitch head (ball mount). You should also lubricate the ball. As far as the Dual Cam goes, you can use a small amount of Vaseline on the cams to quite them down if you wish.
The WD bars and hitch head should last for many many years if it is greased regularly and not overloaded or abused.
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