lat471 wrote: I have used both and they both worked well. After I got the Equalizer (I changed to upgrade from 750# to 1200#)I was sold on the Equalizer just for the ease of hookup and performance. I believe if your going to upgrade and the costs are about the same IMHO it would be the Equalizer.
The ease of hookup and overall compactness of the frame attachment is what sold me on the Equal-i-zer. The one down side is that it does have some small parts cotter pins, pins, L-bracket pins that can get lost, but investing in the spare pin kits solves that if something were to happen.
I've got less than 3K miles on the Equal-i-zer, but it seems to do the job just fine and it's a keeper for me and well worth the $200 I paid for in by negotiating in the price of it when I purchased my new trailer.
Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974. TRAILER MODS
mehwwh wrote: We have the Reese Trunnion Style W. D. Hitch with H. P. Dual Cam & have been very pleased with the setup.
I do have a couple of questions though, do these spring bars and/or Dual Cams require any type of lubrication. I've heard that you shouldn't lubricate either however, I took a look at my spring bars today and noticed that the portion that slips into the ballmount sockets is very worn.
Also, how many years of service should you be able to get out of a set of spring bars before having to replace them.
Your thoughts please.
Don't know where you heard that you should not lubricate the spring bars as that is absolutely untrue.
You should always lubricate the hitch bars where they attach to the hitch head (ball mount). You should also lubricate the ball. As far as the Dual Cam goes, you can use a small amount of Vaseline on the cams to quite them down if you wish.
The WD bars and hitch head should last for many many years if it is greased regularly and not overloaded or abused.
I don't know where I heard that but I do know that I now have 7 years of non-lubricated wear on my ballmount sockets as well as spring bars. Ouch. What type of lubricant would you recommend for these?
I do use Reese Teflon Hitch Ball Lube on the ball.
Thanks for your help, greatly appreciated.
'03 Silverado 1500, Ext.Cab, Z71 Off Road, 4X4, 5.3L, 3.73 rear, AutoMeter Trans Temp Gauge, Putnam Class IV
'08 Jayco JayFlight G2 23FB, Reese WD Hitch, HP Dual Cam Sway, 800# Trunnion Bars, Barker 3000# Power Tongue Jack
Here is what Reese has to say on the subject. This is a quote taken from their Trunnion WD Hitch Installation Manual.
Barney
"MAINTENANCE: Keep trunnions and sockets in head assembly free of dirt and well lubricated. Excessive wear in this area may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Some elongation of socket openings "seat in" is normal.
Keep head assembly exterior clean, especially the trunnion sockets. Do not allow dirt or stones to lodge between trunnions and head.
Keep hitch painted to prevent rust and maintain a good appearance. (Do not paint over labels)
AT THE BEGINNING OF EVERY TOWING DAY:
•Add drop of oil at trunnion contact areas with ball mount.
•Clean ball and coupler socket and coat ball lightly with grease.
•Check spring bar chains and U-bolts for wear. Replace before they become worn halfway through.
•Check to see that all bolts are properly tightened and hitch pin and clip are securely in place.
•Check to see that electrical hookups are in working order, and that safety chains are connected."
2004 Sunnybrook 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch
2002 Ford F250 Super Duty, 7.3L PSD
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