In our ol' truck camper, we have a 12 gallon black tank and an 11 gallon gray tank. I've reviewed Charles Bruni's geo method web page many times, and he advocates using bleach only if there is a problem with odor; we've never had an odor problem, so we never have used bleach.
My assumption is that there is enough good anerobic bacteria in the waste tank to eliminate odor; this is given that there is an adequate supply of oxygen, which fresh water provides.
Am I correct in thinking that so long as we use enough water, water softener and soap are the only chemicals required?
I haven't had my RV long enough to even dump the tank once, but I have looked over the GEO method, and as far as I can tell, you would only use bleach when you are sanitizing your water tank...and even then, he's recommending a much lighter dosage. You are correct that the bacteria will actually eliminate some of the odor as it works it's magic. The way I understand it, the Calgon water softner is to keep the solids from sticking to the side of the Black-water tank.
I don't see why you couldn't add some enzymes or yeast on occasion, to promote better bacterial growth? But, it also seem, at least to me, that the system he is showing, seems to work pretty well.
Bill, Claudia, and the Paps
DH Bill / DW Claudia / DD Jenn / DS Chris The Paps! Sophie, Abby, Brandy, Kahlie and Annie
2000 Winnebago "Minnie" 31C, Ford V-10
Purchased April Fools Day, 2008 The Pets
Have used the geo method sans bleach for 3 years now no problems. The KEY IS WATER and leave tanks closed till 2/3 full. Have gone for 5 days wihout dumping with no smells etc
Bob/Marlene and Crystal(Golden Retriever)and sometimes Grandkids....
37' Alllego Bay dirts for racing/asphalt's for getting there
Following is a direct quote from RID-X'es website:
"The enzymes in RID-X® begin working as soon as they come in contact with water. The bacteria take 2-4 hours to germinate and then begin to break down solid waste. If the temperature and conditions are favorable, then the bacteria will multiply to the maximum level that the environment will allow in about 2-4 days. Since septic systems vary, the speed at which the bacteria and enzymes break down waste varies." Please note that it take some time for an enzyme product do its job.
I occasionally use the GEO method & a Flush King to keep my tanks clean so that the monitors will function properly not to keep the odor down.
RV effluent systems are designed to be "sealed holding tanks not septic tanks". If the systems are functioning properly the odor should be contained therein. The following procedure will help to insure this:
1. Always add 2 to 5 gal. of water in the black tank after draining it. (This also helps to prevent a poop pyramid)
2. Always use PLENTY of water whenever you flush the stool.
3. Make sure that the tank venting systems are clear & functioning properly.
4. Always keep water in all tub & sink drain traps.
5. Always keep a little water in the stool to seal its trap.
6. Be sure the tanks are at least 66% full before draining.
7. Always use PLENTY of water whenever you flush the stool.
I'm relatively new to MH travel (3 years, 26,600 miles, 125+ days on the road with over 2 weeks in 100 degree plus temperatures) and I've never had a tank odor problem in the RV. Maybe that's just luck but based experienced camper's postings on this forum I don't think so.
Dave
Plus New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island & Nova Scotia
Dave H M wrote: I don't understand a smelly holding tank.
I don't either. I think some folks just assume a tank full of c*** will smell, so they treat it. Not really necessary. Mine stinks only when it's been in there awhile and it's really hot.
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