Your connections themselves do not need to be vented. They are flare fittings and tightened properly, won't leak. The stove top should have some sort of vent or overhead fan to allow cooking fumes/steam to escape. It also will allow air to enter your rig and prevent dangerous gas build up.
The fridge needs at least two outside vents, one low and one high (or on the roof). Most of the time, the fridge cabinet is fairly "tight" and sometimes insulated. The fridge uses air for combustion from the bottom vent and exhausts thru the upper vent. Have fun on your build! Wish I could see it. VK
Common size is 3/8" tubing which fits 3/8" flare nuts. Be careful buying it as there are two: inside and outside diameter and thet're not always labled clearly. I always "look" to see if it's the right tubing and the flare nuts fit. The factory shut off at the fridge is only for that appliance. If you want a shut off at each appliance, you'll have to add some. VK
Would the factory shut off on the back of the fridge count?
What is the common size of copper pipe used in plumbing propane?
The factory shut-off would be useless if the refer was removed for service, while still requiring propane to other components.
For my DIY conversion I have a 20lb tank on my hitch mounted cargo carrier...pressure regulated LP hose feeding 3/8" coil copper terminating under the rear chassis, in-line, a sweat 1/2" X 3/8" reducing coupling feeding my 1/2" main L-copper runs including Tee's...elbows and a Tee'd 4" vertical 1/2" copper drop point (capped) for catching any moisture in the lines. I used vertical 1/2" copper feeds to various appliance locations up through the vans floor...1 1/4" hole sawed then filled with expanding foam to resist movement. At the appliance points I sweated 1/2" brass ball valves (approved for LP & natural gas) then reduced to the appliance fitting requirement (stove top 3/8" flare fitting) tankless water heater, 1/2" male adapted sweat feed.
Would the factory shut off on the back of the fridge count?
What is the common size of copper pipe used in plumbing propane?
The factory shut-off would be useless if the refer was removed for service, while still requiring propane to other components.
Should've made my question more specific. Is the shut off for the fridge adequate for that appliance? In other words, do you have to put a shut off in-line with the fridge if the fridge already has a shut off?
I'm only going to be installing two appliances that need propane, a fridge and stove top. I've got a Manchester horizontal mount tank that will be on the underside of the van just below that cabinet that houses both appliances. I think I can run pipe from the underside, tee it off under the sink, run a line to the fridge (where there already is a cut off on the fridge), and run another line (with a cut off) to the stove top. Simple enought set up, just gotta get straight what type of pipe and connections I need. My sub par finish carpentry skills can be over looked, but this is one part of my van conversion I don't want to screw up!
K-mann wrote: Should've made my question more specific. Is the shut off for the fridge adequate for that appliance? In other words, do you have to put a shut off in-line with the fridge if the fridge already has a shut off?
I'm only going to be installing two appliances that need propane, a fridge and stove top. I've got a Manchester horizontal mount tank that will be on the underside of the van just below that cabinet that houses both appliances. I think I can run pipe from the underside, tee it off under the sink, run a line to the fridge (where there already is a cut off on the fridge), and run another line (with a cut off) to the stove top. Simple enought set up, just gotta get straight what type of pipe and connections I need. My sub par finish carpentry skills can be over looked, but this is one part of my van conversion I don't want to screw up!
The fridge shut off is likely used when you switch from electric to propane and back. The additional shut-off in the line is necessary if you remove the fridge for any reason. You would not want to depend on the shut-off on the tank preventing someone from turning it back on and gasing the interior of your RV. This would be the smart thing to do as you cannot watch that tank shut-off all the time. I would keep the TEE under the RV as connections are all potential leak points. Keep the connections to a minimum inside your RV. I would also discourage use of soldered joints unless you do that type of work daily. I have seen soldered joints that appear leak tight initially, but after someone bumps them the very small bit of solder breaks and you have a leak. Compression joints usually are not as susceptible to leaking if bumped or moved.
vikx wrote: Common size is 3/8" tubing which fits 3/8" flare nuts. Be careful buying it as there are two: inside and outside diameter and thet're not always labled clearly.
Only slightly confused now. Ha! I am square on adding shut offs, I was having a brain fart in some of my previous posts.
I've done some more 'research' on my connections and think I've almost figured out what I need. Still have a couple of qeustions, maybe I should go crawl around under a B again and refresh my memory.
In an effort to reduce pieces, connections, etc is it ok to run 3/8" OD copper to the appliances since that is the size flare nut I'll need to connect stove and fridge? Seems like most of shut off and connectors are 1/2", but I can find the right connections in 3/8" wouldn't it be better to run that ?
vikx wrote: Common size is 3/8" tubing which fits 3/8" flare nuts. Be careful buying it as there are two: inside and outside diameter and thet're not always labled clearly.
Only slightly confused now. Ha! I am square on adding shut offs, I was having a brain fart in some of my previous posts.
I've done some more 'research' on my connections and think I've almost figured out what I need. Still have a couple of qeustions, maybe I should go crawl around under a B again and refresh my memory.
In an effort to reduce pieces, connections, etc is it ok to run 3/8" OD copper to the appliances since that is the size flare nut I'll need to connect stove and fridge? Seems like most of shut off and connectors are 1/2", but I can find the right connections in 3/8" wouldn't it be better to run that ?
If you plan on feeding propane to multiple appliances (2 or more) 1/2" L-copper run under the chassis, then up through your vans floor to appliance locations, will supply the adequate volume of propane required. 3/8" coil copper used to run propane for even one appliance for a distance of 10 feet or more would be stretching it for propane supplied to that appliance...
I would go with 3/8 tubing, flare fittings and flare valves, usually available at a good hardware store. No sense in going up and down in sizes...I agree with the above that you may need 1/2" black iron under the van and tee off to the appliances. As I remember, you're only supplying two appliances fairly close to the tank, so 3/8 copper may work just fine. Sounds like you have this figured out! Have fun, VK
I received this from a source of mine about this thread, and thought it would be prudent to pass it along. Please heed this warning, and be safe.
Rodger
"This thread: http://www.trailerlife.com/cforum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/21421526/page/4.cfm is providing information to Tress that may or may not be accurate, but is not being provided by licensed gas fitters. Tress needs to be advised that ALL propane installations need to be completed and inspected by a LICENSED RV Gas fitter or the vehicle cannot be certified or insured. There are regulations in place for the safety of the user and the public that are not available to the public for this very reason. "Backyarding" a propane system is an unwise practise. (In Canada, the Gas Branch of the CSA regulations book costs each fitter about $600, just for the book! And, the RV-specific part of the book is only about 30 pages out of about 1200)
It may cost more to have a fitter do it, but if anything ever happens that is caused by the propane installation, the fitter is responsible. In the case of a " 'yarder ", this would be whomever installed the system. If a propane fire or BLEVE caused by an illegal or unsafe propane system kills or maims someone else, you goin' to the big house".
"I worked on a homebuilt before, and in order to fix the appliance problem, I had to completely refit the propane system, which cost the customer a lot more than having it done right the first time. There was no way I was going to sign off on it or even start the repairs unless the customer gave the go-ahead for the refit. If my name/number is going on the gas test form, the system has to be legal and safe".
"Basically, the thread needs to end with Tress accepting the fact that it must be done by a licensed fitter".
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