K-mann

Lex, KY

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Joined: 05/23/2008

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That is what I was thinking vikx. I figured there was a reason the top of the tank is stamped top and the valves located where they are...to make it work.
Good tip on the akward mounting! I do mean fill the tank when I say access the fittings. Of course I'd want to make the fittings as accessible as possible for filling and any maintainance. I'm new to all this so I just want to explore my options.
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vikx

Washington State

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Joined: 08/03/2006

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K-mann, one of the interesting things to do while building your van is check out factory made ones. Even the old vans can give you ideas. Have fun. VK
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kking

Lowell, MA

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Joined: 02/18/2008

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Not to hijack the thread, but does anyone know of a good source for a used RV tank (is this the Manchester?) I want to add propane to my project van, but can't figure out a really safe way to use a regular 20# tank.
The map shows the states my wife and I have driven (or camped) in together.
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Home Skillet

Pearland Texas

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Joined: 10/21/2004

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kking wrote: safe way to use a regular 20# tank.
A permanently mounted propane tank HAS to be DOT certified, or you'll have a hard time finding someone to fill it.
I built my own toy hauler box van and added the propane tank for the heater and fridge. I used copper tubing and compression fitting from Home Depot.
2005 Gulf Stream Conquest 31ft
BigFoot Levelers,SmarTire,Bilstein Shocks,Trans temp guage,Lowrace iWAY
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kking

Lowell, MA

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Did you use a regular RV permanent tank, or figure out a mount for a regular 20#er?
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Home Skillet

Pearland Texas

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Joined: 10/21/2004

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I bought one made for an RV.
These can be bolted directly to the vehicle frame.
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Home Skillet

Pearland Texas

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Here's the tank installed.

I also have the BBQ hose adapter. I would advise against adding one. It puts too much strain on the valve.
There is a regulator, but it is mounted after the BBQ adapter.
The plastic bag is to keep dirt out of the pop off valve.
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K-mann

Lex, KY

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Joined: 05/23/2008

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If I've got two propane powered appliances (fridge and cooktop) is it best to split the line externally (on the underside of the vehicle) or internally (inside the cabinet)?
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vikx

Washington State

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K-mann, it depends on where your appliances are located. You can tee a copper line inside the rig if the fridge and stovetop are next to each other. It they're across the coach, of course underneath would be better. For external splits, it's better to use the black iron pipe, tee it, and then go to copper before you plumb up into the appliance cabinet. VK
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K-mann

Lex, KY

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The fridge and stovetop will be next to each other (pretty much on top of each other) in a cabinet. The tank will be mounted directly under (external) the floor of the cabinet. I wanted to run my gas line into the rig under the sink (since there will be a drain cut in the floor in this area too) and T it off to the fridge and stovetop inside this cabinet.
I wasn't sure if you had to have all of your LP gas connections in a vented compartment or not. Also wasn't sure how or if the stovetop's connections needed to be vented. Once I get my stovetop (Atwood 2 burner drop-in) I should be able to figure that out.
Thanks again for the insight!
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