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Open Roads Forum  >  Rallies, Shows and Gatherings

 > Northwest Spring Rally, May 15-17, 2009

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Ron Butler

Federal Way WA.

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Posted: 08/28/08 09:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

NEED HELP FROM YOU EXPERT NORTHWEST RVERS!!!

As I mentioned in an earlier post, Carolyn & I are putting our fulltime travel plans on hold and we are in the process of moving into Carolyn's little rental house. Ours is still leased out!!

Here's my problem - this will be the first time that I will have to "winterize" the rig for storing during the winter. I'm not overly concerned about draining the water and that sort of thing. From having lived aboard my sailboat for a number of years I know it is a real challenge to keep mildew and interior moisture under control. On the boat the key seemed to have a bit of fresh air under steady circulation. I would assume this is the same for an rv? I have found only one storage lot that has electrical access. Is this a necessity? I'm thinking that a fan and/or humidifier would be best to have, if possible. Any of you keep a cover over your rig for the winter? Carolyn would like to get one of the full covers for it. Do I or should I have one of those battery moniter/chargers installed to keep the batteries charged?

I know that many/most of you are able to park your rig at home, but we don't have the room at the little place. We don't want to leave it in the second driveway at Carolyn's son and daughter-in-laws for the winter, where we have a 30 amp plug-in.

Any suggestions are welcomed!

Bigdog, certainly understand family coming before Cougar football!! So I won't give you that bad of a time for it!!


Ron & Carolyn
Sadie the Irish Terrier
Happy the Lakeland Terrier
From sailing yacht to land yacht
KE7BZC
M/V Lothlorien

GO HUSKIES


DavidG

near Seattle, Washington, USA

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Posted: 08/28/08 09:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ron,

I would definitely take the time to drain the water tanks, water heater and water lines. Too much water in the wrong place can crack something and you won't know it until spring, then you get to repair it, which can be costly. If you have an oil-less air compressor, blow out the lines too. Every little bit (less water) helps.

As for a cover, they help keep the rig nice and clean, but can be a PITA to put on and take off, but you only have to do that once a year.

I've used those Dry-z-Air things and they work pretty good to dry out the air some. Never bothered with a fan or dehumidifier though.


David and Laura G
Click here for RV Towing Tips and more
2003 Suburban K2500LT 4WD, 8.1L, 3.73, Autoride 14-16 mpg hwy, 10-12 city, 8 towing
2008 Adirondack 31RL
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Ron Butler

Federal Way WA.

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Posted: 08/28/08 09:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

David,

I plan on draining the water and tanks!! Didn't make that clear!

I forgot about those Driz Air things. I used those on the boat as well. How many for a 33 footer? The more the better?!?

I was afraid of the cover being a PITA. I also have a Wilson cell phone antenna on the roof that maybe a problem. I have to see if it unscrews from the mount and wire.

Thanks

Tradewinds

Northwest Washington

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Posted: 08/28/08 10:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ron, I had a cover on one of my rigs years ago and I personally would never do it again. I put it on in Nov and took it off in March and the thing looked like a green moss machine. I was very unhappy with how it trapped moisture.

We put four 60watt light bulbs in our rig and two of the dehumidifyers and it stays dry inside. When we stayed home two years ago our rig sat like that from Oct till March and it was dry inside with no dampness and no mildew smell. I leave one of the vents cracked just tad front and rear to get some air flow. I have the lights mounted on 12x12 plywood with long cords so I can set them where I think they need to be and the will not tip over.

We use to use the Dryeze stuff in the containers and that trapped a lot of mositure, not sure why we quit using it.

I did take the time to drain all the water out and then do a good blow down. Not sure why but I always left all the faucetts open and all the drains.


Bob
National Tradewinds with Nissan 4x4 Ext Cab/Honda CRV Toad
It's the Journey not the Destination
RVing since 1970


DavidG

near Seattle, Washington, USA

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Posted: 08/29/08 07:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ron,

With our prior 27' trailer, I used 3 of the Dry-z-Air pots, but with the way our new 34' trailer is laid out, I'd probably use 4. The things are fairly cheap, so why not?

jahrens

Puyallup WA

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Posted: 08/29/08 09:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ron we used three Dry-z-Air pots in our 30' class A motorhome last winter with no problems with moisture.


John & Nikki Ahrens, Simon & The Admiral
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rvlady

Sublimity, Oregon

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Posted: 08/29/08 10:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We were given 6 of the Dri-Z-Air pots years ago when dave's uncle got out of RVing and sold his motorhome, andwe use all of them. Our trailer is ony 27' long total, so they really do the job--and we have a wall only into the rear bathroom--that is kept open when the trailer is in storage. May be overkill.


Linda and husband Dave (retired US Army) W7DDW
Jake, the 86# Black Lab "kid"
2002 Arctic Fox 25R, Honda 2000i
2003 DODGE 3500 SLT Quad Cab, 4x4, SRW, HO CTD, 3.73, 48RE, Jake Brake

OTTO

Western Washington/Gold Canyon, AZ

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Posted: 08/29/08 11:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ron, I don't think those RV covers are a good thing in our climate here. You would be creating a "greehouse" for mold. If you have access to power, I would use a ceramic heater or two set low. I have also used heat lamps instead of heaters. It does consume energy but you have an expensive asset to protect. If power is not an option, I guess I would buy lots of that Dry air stuff. It worked well many years ago in my truck camper. Check on it every couple weeks to be sure mold and mildew is not a problem.

As far as winterizing, I allways use low pressure air to clear out waterlines. Much easier and less messy than filling with antifreeze. Speaking of antifreeze, don't forget to pour RV antifreeze in each of your p-traps.


Gary
2001 Monaco Knight
2002 Honda CRV Toad
Lolly the Wonderpup (Miniature Aussie)


grousehunter 61

pollock idaho

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Posted: 08/29/08 09:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ron, I never winterize our coach, I am plugged in and I turn the furnace on, set it to 50, open the cabinet doors and call it good. the furnace moves the air around, it stays warm, no mildew or mold and it cost about 20.00 a month for propane. I do make sure that I have clean holding tanks so that the valves don't freeze.If I want to use it, fire it up and go.


Rodger & Teri

1985 Sportcoach / crosscountry
1996 GEO Tracker-towed
1983 Camaro / 1971 Chevy 4x4
chessie's named sonny & choc
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Bigdog

silverdale wa.

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Posted: 08/31/08 08:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I also don't winterize except to drain all the lines and since I have 30 amps to the pad,I just hook up a little heater and that keeps the interior dry and about 45 degrees.I also try to get out about once a month all year around.(Nehalem Beach SP for MLK birthday in 2009 for anyone else who wants to try it, good wine run)Before the electric,I used the driz-aire in both our 27' Wilderness and the two pop/ups before that.You gotta remember to check them once a week or so 'cuz they will run over if it gets really damp...


GO COUGARS
2001 Ford 7.3L PSD Excursion
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AFE Stage1 air-inlet
4"MBRP exhaust
Hellwig rear sway bar
2005 Keystone COUGAR 304BHS
Tekonsha Prodigy
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2008 Thomas w/Mercedes-Benz 78 pass. school bus


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