I started this back last December, my Gen set won’t stay running. It starts every time, runs until the governor kicks in then shuts down. I was in FL at the time and didn’t have the resources to remove the set to do any meaningful troubleshooting. Now I am back home and have the set out of the MH and on the bench.
This is a 2001 Onan (4KY FA26100J S/N D010232312) with 43.4 hours on it. I have not had to use it for any thing but monthly maintenance runs for 15 - 20 minutes under power. Back in Dec. was the first time it had ever showed any signs of failure. I have just ignored it since then.
So now I want to get it back in service. I am 50 miles from a service center so would like to take a shot at getting it repaired myself.
What I know for sure:
It does not have a fuel problem - I have it on it’s own supply now.
Fuel pump is pumping.
Fuel filter is not plugged.
The “Fuel Shut-off Solenoid” is working.
Spark Plug is working with good fire (before starting.)
I have the covers off, so no air flow restrictions
Governor is working - Runs until just after the governor kicks in.
When started it puts out 120 VAC (just before shutting down.)
It outputs the diagnostic code 3 - 6 (Engine stopped without command from controller.)
Now I am to the point that I think that my problem is with the controller board. I guess my question is if anyone knows any way to check the operation of the board (Part # 300-5046) as it pertains to output of the ignition pulses to the spark coil. I suspect that it is failing to produce a pulse to the coil once it is running. But I have no way to measure anything without cutting a wire and I don’t want to do that. The ign. transformer (Coil) is located under the generator, out of sight. I can see the spark wire and another wire heading to the coil, but I can not see the actual transformer itself. Since it does start, it must be hooked up.
Thanks
2001 Winnebago Minni - 31C
Ford E450 - V10 Triton
Tow - 2005 Jeep Liberty
gunny, no. Holding the 'Start' button will not keep it running.
What I was trying to say, is the engine reaches max RPM, the governor then activates to maintain RPM for 120 VAC. The governor arm(s) actually adjust the throttle on the carb. Then the engine shuts down, the governor is spring loaded and returns to it's at-rest position. This whole thing happens within about 3-4 seconds, the motor starts on about the first revolution.
The oil is new and full and I don't think this unit has a low oil shut down sensor, at least no wires to that area and no mention on the drawings.
The trouble code indicates the control panel did not shut it down, but there isn't much else to cause it. It will re-start immediately if the trouble code is shut off. It looks like everything except the 120VAC output, runs thru the control panel.
I was hoping that someone might have a way to verify the control is NOT bad.
Try this, pull the control board and send it to Flight Systems. They'll test it, if good, charge a test fee and send it back, if bad, they'll fix it, charge for the repair and send it back.
I have a manual for the KY series. It says for your symptoms: 1) Low fuel or low oil. 2) Faulty choke operation. 3) Vapor lock from high temperatures. 4) Contaminated or incorrect fuel. Based on what you have said, might be the choke maybe?? There are some other things they list if it quits as soon as you take your finger off the switch but that doesnt appear to be the case with your unit. Cummins owns Onan now and if you have a dealer nearby you can buy the service and parts manual. There is good troubleshooting in there but too much to type here. I'm wondering if it could be a defective voltage regulator.
Retired Anesthetist. Pilot with mechanic/inspection ratings.1996 Jayco C 22 foot with 460/Banks Powerpak/Bilsteins.Wife and daughter. Two cats which control my life. 1975 Ford F-250, 84 Coupe Deville, Thorp T18, tons of tools and tons of junk.
I had the very same thing happen to my gen, I put a new board on it, that did'nt fix anything, took it to northwest cummings here in oregon, it ended up being the carb needed to be replaced, it's been running great ever since. You said it was a 2001 with only 43 hours on it. I have a 2004 with only 24 hours on it , they need to be run more from what I hear. PM if you need a board I have a new one real cheap, also if you need any more questions about my situation.
About 4 years agao, I had the same or similar problem (shuts down right after start) with the same gen on my previous coach and the controller fixed it. I can't remember what codes were being reported, but 3 and 6 sound familiar. I didn't verify the controller was bad, but it was suggested further down in the troubleshooting procedure (than removing the gen), but I took a chance and got lucky. Good luck.
Larry, Debbie, Tiki and Tomi
USAF Retired
2003 36' Country Coach Allure #30856
2008 Tacoma Toad
SMI Air Force One toad brake
Can you grab the throttle / governor linkage and manually keep it running at some rpm? It sounds a lot like the way one of my previous 2.8's behaved when it had a gummed-up carb from the PO's neglect. I could manually 'force' it to keep running a bit longer, tho' erratcally, when I was trying to figure out the problem. I cured it by pulling nearly pure Techron into the carb thru the fuel line, and ltting it sit for a day, then refreshing the Techron... repeated several times, and it eventually ran fine.
BTW, the Onan manuals for all 3 of my 2.8's have called for 2 hours of exercise at 1/2 load every month. I think the 4.0 manual says the same. It seems to work.
Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
'06 Tiger CX 'C Minus' on a Silverado 2500HD 4x4, 8.1 & Allison ('Loafer's Glory'); '07 Forester 2.5 ( the 'HANDBSKT'); '95 Toyota SR5 V-6 4x4 pickup, ARB locker, Bilsteins, Warn hubs & M8000, etc;
'94 968, M030 swaybars ('DOPPLER')
I am now convinced that it is a fuel problem. After several attempts I was able to keep it running by spraying carb-cleaner into the mouth of the carburetor. I also noticed that if I prime it for 30 seconds before attempting to start it, it would start and run smoother and longer. But by spraying the cleaner into the throat it continues to run and will even run for a minute or two on the gas alone.
I have tried another fuel pump, with the same results. The pump does pump a good supply of fuel and voltage is applied to the pump while the engine is starting and running.
So its now off with the carb and I will try soaking it in cleaner for a couple of days. If that don't work then I can replace it. I notice the repair manual says not to attempt any repairs or rebuilds, just buy a new one. I will probably take it apart anyway and see if I can clean it up a little.
I have an old 2N Ford tractor that I have to do that to at least once a year.
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