Get one of the services like CAA or AAA etc, biggest problem I have found with road shoulders is they can be soft and not very level which can make changing tires near impossible. I just finished doing the rear brakes, pass side rear disc brake seal was leaking and I had to change the disc itself. We tried lifting it with a 3.5 ton floor jack and it could not lift one corner. Went and bought a 12 ton pneumatic/hydraulic jack. I still had to put blocks under it to raise it up enough to get to the frame, after that it was easy. Really nice using air to jack it up instead of hand power.... I lifted it only enough to get the tires off and used two 6 ton jack stands, one in front and one in read of wheel. I will keep the jank in the MH but I have CAA and they will change tires so I would rather use them.
The coach should survive, but make sure you have flares or safety triangles. If you are stuck on the side of the road, its good to force the traffic away from you. Also put them back far enough people can get out of your way.
Sometimes with a flat or other issue, you are so focused on the problem, that you can forget about the safety aspect. I've had 3 blowouts, but only once remembered that I had safety triangles with me and put them out.
Ivylog wrote: Sounds like you need to purchase road service plus most MH's do not have a spare.
Ivylog is correct, purchase an Emergency Road Service Policy and have them change your tire. Also he is correct many MH's today do not have a spare tire. You can save time and money by purchasing and carrying an unmounted spare tire. If you have 22.5 wheels it requires over 400 pounds ot torque to change it. It is not worth theffort, use an ERS.
2002 36' Monaco La Palma DBD Ford V-10
2 slides, 2 sinks, 2 potties
Toad - 2001 Saturn SL2 w/Sunroof/CD/Cassette
Falcon All Terrain Hitch & US Gear Toad Brake
Thank you for your many options. I tend to stray away from paying someone to do something if I can do it myself. I also understand that there are just some things I can't. Not being able to change my own tire is a big blow to the ego.....lol.
We are looking at 28-30 foot gasoline models. We currently have triple A on our car, I will check into the RV pricing for it. I have never once called triple A and would drop them in a heartbeat if it were not for my wife. Good to know that if SHE gets stranded she can just make a call. As for myself I look at it as a challenge, I would rather walk 5-10 miles to the parts store and back if I know I can fix it and usually I can. I am just one of those people who strive for self sufficiency, not because I don't ever need someone else but I try every option possible before intruding on someone else for a favor or paying someone else. This has saved me thousands in life financially and I learned many things I never would have other wise.
I was glad to hear about how the road service does it. I don't know why it is but in my mind I was just thinking they are going to jack it up the same way I would...lol. Give me a break I am new.....I will learn, have no choice. We are just jumping in both feet first never owned an RV and going Fulltime from the moment we buy it and get it ready, what doesn't kill us will make us stronger.....the good thing is we will always be home no matter where we are. Which is also a good thing considering we are selling the house to get the RV....yup we are those crazy folks throwing all caution to the wind! I am glad for this forum and others as I have learned a great deal already.
I change them myself with my HWH levelers. I have Good Sam ERS but who wants to wait for hours on the side of the road when you can do it yourself in minutes?
I do most everything possible to my RV, but changing a wheel isn't one of them. I'm not so sure, I could even break loose the lug nuts, as most are on pretty tight.The road service insurance ...suggested...is a must have, especially if and when you need a tow. I presently have a KOA plan run by allstate insurance, which was the best deal going. Don't know how good it is or my previous AAA...as I've never had to use either.
As far as the jacks go, in case you want to try it, usually work in combos of....both fronts, both rears, both on the right, or both on the left and usually you can only lower all of them at once.
"We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey."
1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal, with a tag axle and one slide, on a 1997 P32 Chevy chassis....7.4 Vortec Engine
I did change a 19.5 tire myself on my last motor home (a P30 chassis), however my Workhorse W20 chassis requires that the lug nuts be torqued to 475 foot pounds. Yup that's a real number. It's in my manual and I called WH to verify it.
I don't have a torque wrench that will handle anywhere near that much. I would also need about a three foot cheater bar just to break them loose.
I doubt if the road service guys will have the right torque wrench either.
I have checked with several RV shops and they didn't have one. One tire shop said they had a 500 foot pound torque wrench - it was way up on a shelf in a box, covered with dust. I believe they just use an air wrench and don't mess with setting the torque.
I am going to buy a torque multiplier so I can set the torque properly after the road service changes a tire. The cheapest one I have found is $200 at Northern Tool.
Clay (WA5NMR), Lee,(Wife) Codi, Brandi (Shelties) and Damncat (damn cat)
Full Timing in a 2004 Winnebago Sightseer 35N, Workhorse chassis, Honda Accord toad
I carry a 10 ton bottle jack, a 10" length of 2X10 to sit the jack on, wheel chocks, a 3/4" drive T-handle with socket and extension, a 3 foot cheater pipe (also used as a lever to lift the wheel onto the hub) and, of course, a spare tire. With all this, changing a flat is a breeze.
Offline
Online
