I'm not sure if this is the right area, but here's my problem. I've replaced my front rotors, brake pads and lines on my Dodge MB300 chassis, 1977, 360 engine. The brake lines were not connected to anything for about 2 weeks ( I had to tear everything apart to see what I was going to need)and I waited for parts. Now it's all back together, but I can't seem to get any brake pressure as I bleed them. Anyone have any idea what I might be missing? I've bleed and flushed this system just last year with no problem. Thanks for any help...Jerry
1977 Brougham 22' Class C / Dodge MB400 chassis / 360 engine
DW - Gerry DH - Jerry
Pets, 3 yr. old Flat Coat Retriever (black), 2 yr. Lab mix (black),
9 mo. old min. Schnauzer (silver/grey)
You could open the bleed zerks and fill the resevoir. Fluid should gravity drain down to fill the lines then you'll have to bleed the residual air. You may also need to bleed the master cylinder which may have gotten an air pocket in it. This is done by disconnecting the brake lines at the MC, then attaching some plastic lines and bleeding right back into the MC resevoir. A new MC will usually come with these plastic lines and fittings.
2005 Dutchmen 35SRV, Pergo floor, 5th Airborne, JT Strong Arm, Kodiak Disk Brakes, Backup camera
2006 Dodge CTD RAM QC 3500 LWB 4WD, Reese 16k, Airlift, Pacbrake, Britebox, 60g aux fuel tank
04 HD Ultra, CanAM 400MAX Quad
Make sure the calipers were not reversed left to right. On some vehicles this could put the bleeder valve on bottom instead of the top of the caliper thus trapping air.
I would also say that the air could be trapped between the front to rear safety valve, and try bleeding some air out of the rear brakes, then see if you get out some air. I think the valve is called a proportioning valve.
Have you replaced the rubber hoses in the front brakes? Those can expand and contract when under the 2,000 PSI that is required to run disk brakes, and just feel like there is air trapped, even if there is not air trapped. After 12 years, it is time to change out the rubber hoses.
And yes - make sure the bleeders are at the top. If they are near the bottom, suspect that they have been switched left for right.
Fred.
Money can't buy happiness but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a Porsche or Country Coach!
Regarding switching calipers from side to side. They may well look OK but check to be sure. Fords and GM's both looked fine even when they were switched.
Thank you gentlemen, once again you have come through when no one else could. I rummaged through all the manuals I could find looking for illustrations available to me and low and behold found one that clearly showed that I have them reversed. I'll change them tomorrow and bleed as needed. All should work. By the way, I asked three mechanics here in town and the people a NAPA and not one suggested checking that! Thanks to all for their wisdom and tolerance for those of us less in the know....Jerry
tioga_pass wrote: Make sure the calipers were not reversed left to right. On some vehicles this could put the bleeder valve on bottom instead of the top of the caliper thus trapping air.
My buddy did this on his toyota and we could not get the air out until we discovered the mix up. The bleeders were on the BOTTOM of the calipers and after switching them back the bleeders were then on TOP and they bled real easy. A not to common mistake but it does happen when every thing is removed and then reinstalled. Worth a look.
Othertonka
2004 Southwind 32VS
2002 CRV Toad
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